wood stove

rmk4x4

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what i started with is a 36inch by 24inch by 1/2 pipe and have made this stove still need to put the doors and front on it i built it to have a ash pan in the bottem the shaker grates to burn coal in it. it also so has a coil in the top to run my radiant floor heating threw
 

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rmk4x4

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few more pic
 

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mudbuddy

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Very nice & definitely heavy duty.
30" lengths of fire wood, should really put out the heat.
Nice water circ addition, don't forget the pop-off/ relief in case of a power failure. :)
 

rmk4x4

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Very nice & definitely heavy duty.
30" lengths of fire wood, should really put out the heat.
Nice water circ addition, don't forget the pop-off/ relief in case of a power failure. :)


i am going to run an open system with no pressure so there will be a tank mounted at the highest point to let air and expansion happen dont know how good it will work but i will find out
 

rmk4x4

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got done yesterday and installed after a test burn outside seems to heat my 40x60 shop well filled it up with good birch so will have to see how long the burn time is. then i am off to seward for a load of coal hoping for 12-16 hour burn time with coal it is heavy glad i have a backhoe to set it in place
 

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greythorn3

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get coal in sutton

is that just the 18" off the floor for gas vapors? i was wondering if it would be better to go higher or not, do you think it really mattters much? depends on how drafty your should would be i guess.
 

rmk4x4

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get coal in sutton

is that just the 18" off the floor for gas vapors? i was wondering if it would be better to go higher or not, do you think it really mattters much? depends on how drafty your should would be i guess.


sutton is a long drive from soldotna
 

ADfields

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I built one just about like yours. Mine is without the tray, 30” long and I put a 12” flat place for a coffee pot let into the top. I love it, best stove I ever had and it’s 9 years old now. Only trouble is the front which I made from 3/8” plate with a square door like yours keeps cracking at the lower corners. It starts a crack at the corner of the opening from heat expansion and runs down to the pipe, about 2” long. I welded the heck out of them and that busted out within a month. I plated the inside with 2” wide bar stock welded on either side of the cracks and that pulled loose from one side in about a month too. Not sure what I’m gonna try next but thinking maybe bridge it with heavy angle and let it flex. Let me know how yours holds and if you got any ideas for mine.
 

rmk4x4

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on my door it is framed in with 1/4x2 flat bar for the door to seal agist the door is 3/8 with some light channel around the outside for the gasket to set in so far no problems but time will tell i am burning coal in it now. Getting about 16hours of burn time off of 3 five gallon buckets full and is keeping my shop 50 with out problem by morning. The ash pan is a must have if you are burning coal since it makes alot of ash.
 

pacific23

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Andy, what are you welding on your door with ? M.I.G. , F.C.A.W. , S.M.A.W. If your Stick Welding you should be using E7018 and this is the process I would would /Do use is this type of construction. Normal MIG Welding does not penetrate good enough and the filler metal is to brittle , for most MIG welders the MAX PLATE THICKNESS TO WELD is about 3/8".

If you have the ability to use the Flux core process [ for production ] it will work VERY well when the right TS is used [ it's Tubed Steel NOT wire]

Either way , you guys have built some nice stoves, WELL DONE.
 

ADfields

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Sorry I didn’t get back guys, I forgot about this thread.

I have an older Miller stick/tig (and a spool gun I never use) I think it’s a BB300, it was like $8K back in 1998 when I got it. Anyway I stick almost everything, this was done with 7018 twice and 6011 last time. First time I ground the crack to a nice “V” and filled it with 7018 at about 90 amp DC. Next was the plate behind welded in with 7018 then burned through the crack to the plate inside @120DC, filled it proud and ground it flat. Last time I had kinda give up and just closed it up good using 6011 so I wouldn’t need it real clean, power about 120AC this time.

When I was taking these pix I thought maybe I should put a radiused gusset in the opening to relive that sharp stress corner there. I don’t know, don’t think any weld is gonna hold as much as she moves in use unless I alter the shape somehow.
Picture026a-1.jpg
Picture025a.jpg
 

ADfields

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on my door it is framed in with 1/4x2 flat bar for the door to seal agist the door is 3/8 with some light channel around the outside for the gasket to set in so far no problems but time will tell i am burning coal in it now. Getting about 16hours of burn time off of 3 five gallon buckets full and is keeping my shop 50 with out problem by morning. The ash pan is a must have if you are burning coal since it makes alot of ash.
My door is similar to yours and works the same. The opening is wrapped with 1/4X1 hot roll as you can see in that picture. I made the door from an 1/8” square with the corners notched off and then bent the returns. For the bending I clamping it to my wood splitter beam with a heavy bar on the inside then heat and pound it over. Welded up the corners inside-n-out then took a flap wheel to it till it looked factory made.

The handle is an old chipping hammer handle, head cut off and run through a bushing then bent so it catches inside the frame. Works very well and wish I could take credit for the design but I copied one I saw and took a picture of . . . the flat on top is me but I swiped the heavy thinking stuff.

Looking at yours I bet you don’t get my crack issue because of the ash tray. I think the way it’s cut out will let it egg as it expands so put less stress . . . mine the front is trying to keep the pipe from expanding out and it’s just more than the front plate can take.
 

plainsman

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I think your tank with open fill hole oughta work great, I was talking to a person who used a Central Boiler type wood heater with a pump for the house. Lady said they could fill it every 2 days, and if out of town and power was off it would still heat the house due to the way the heat circulation was designed. There were a couple anti-backflow valves so that hot water heated in the stove would percolate thru the pipes. I am thinkin a design sorta like a coffee pot, with a ball bearing that is pushed outa the way by expanding water, yet rolls back into place to prevent water flowing backwards would also work. Anyway by now you know if your system works the way ya want it to.
 

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