So I have this idea in my head for my next revolver. I can't buy it from a factory, I am going to have to have something modified.
What I have is a TALO New Vaquero, 3.75" bbl, 45 Colt, birdshead grips. I am keeping it, but it really hurts to fire more than 12 rounds through it. The birdshead carries real nice, I managed to get about 2k rounds through it last year a few at a time. While I do have a redhawk in my safe for special occasions in general I feel pretty safe in most of the interior most of the time packing 45 Colt loaded to 20k psi.
So for my new gun I want a 45 Colt New Vaquero with a 3.75" bbl and a standard plow handle grip. Montado, right? Except for the polished stainless finish, yup, that's exactly the one. So I have one on the way from Ohio and I am going to have to have the polished stainless finish flattened.
Andy suggested I get busy with a scotch-brite pad. Any other ideas? Bench grinder with which pad or brush in it?
Another problem/ challenge/ opportunity at my age the .080" wide standard Ruger front blade isn't real visible to me. In Elmer Keith's _Sixguns_ he mentions .100 to .125 is better for a lot of folks, and even mentions that "older" folks like myself can do better with shorter sight radius guns because our eyes just aren't as accommodating as they used to be. I am, ahem, one of those.
So stupid n00b question number two, how hard is it really to braze in a wider blade? Would it be better to build up the factory sight with JB weld or somesuch?
Also, I am looking to give long distance shooting a whirl with his thing. Whether I widen or replace the factory front blade, I am going to have to do something about the rear sight. Bear in mind I am going to be loading 255gr bullets to 20k psi. I have seen some pretty good velocity with faster powders like tite-group, but much better groups with more moderate powders like Unique.
So I have an idea for a rear sight that ought to leave most of the factory hardened cylinder frame untouched. Stupid Question #3, why not braze in a small piece of flat stock as drawn not to scale - and then I'll file the notch to my load?
FWIW I would like this gun to come out nice enough to pass in open carry for a Texas BBQ gun or more often a Fairbanks wedding gun.
What I have is a TALO New Vaquero, 3.75" bbl, 45 Colt, birdshead grips. I am keeping it, but it really hurts to fire more than 12 rounds through it. The birdshead carries real nice, I managed to get about 2k rounds through it last year a few at a time. While I do have a redhawk in my safe for special occasions in general I feel pretty safe in most of the interior most of the time packing 45 Colt loaded to 20k psi.
So for my new gun I want a 45 Colt New Vaquero with a 3.75" bbl and a standard plow handle grip. Montado, right? Except for the polished stainless finish, yup, that's exactly the one. So I have one on the way from Ohio and I am going to have to have the polished stainless finish flattened.
Andy suggested I get busy with a scotch-brite pad. Any other ideas? Bench grinder with which pad or brush in it?
Another problem/ challenge/ opportunity at my age the .080" wide standard Ruger front blade isn't real visible to me. In Elmer Keith's _Sixguns_ he mentions .100 to .125 is better for a lot of folks, and even mentions that "older" folks like myself can do better with shorter sight radius guns because our eyes just aren't as accommodating as they used to be. I am, ahem, one of those.
So stupid n00b question number two, how hard is it really to braze in a wider blade? Would it be better to build up the factory sight with JB weld or somesuch?
Also, I am looking to give long distance shooting a whirl with his thing. Whether I widen or replace the factory front blade, I am going to have to do something about the rear sight. Bear in mind I am going to be loading 255gr bullets to 20k psi. I have seen some pretty good velocity with faster powders like tite-group, but much better groups with more moderate powders like Unique.
So I have an idea for a rear sight that ought to leave most of the factory hardened cylinder frame untouched. Stupid Question #3, why not braze in a small piece of flat stock as drawn not to scale - and then I'll file the notch to my load?
FWIW I would like this gun to come out nice enough to pass in open carry for a Texas BBQ gun or more often a Fairbanks wedding gun.