Protecting Your Guns on Wet Hunts!

[AlaskaCub]

I recently had a converstaion with a reputable gunsmith about what are the best lubricants and preservatives to use on rifles in wet weather hunts like so many of us experience here in Alaska. We talked back and forth about what our opinions were on what was best. I have been using Break Free CLP for some time and have had good results with it. He was for some of the more Synthetic oils such as Tri-Flow. I did some research and discussed this topic on another forum. Here is a link that a guy provided to a test that was performed with many of the products that many of us have used on our guns before hunts and thought you guys might find this interesting as to how well they actually perform in an equally controlled testing environment. This topic comes up pretty regularly on this forum on whats best to prevent rust on our guns on wet weather hunts like Coastal Bear hunts, Sheep and Goat hunting and even float hunts, so check out this article.


http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

I have to admit that I have tried the Birchwood & Casey Sheath and found it didn't perform so well.

 

[outdsman]

Finishes

Finishes

Anyone have any experiences with finishes used that are good for wet or even salty atmospheres? I've heard of a black tea finish, sounds like it all must be sent out of state and is spendy.

 

[StevenJ]

I have used Militec-1 for about 5 years now on all my weapons. My taurus 454 used to rust (it is blued) in about three hours in the rain. I had it duracoated by Les at Custom firearms Finishes Alaska, in eagle river and it went on a 6 day sheep hunt, no oil on it whatsoever, rained for 4 of the days, never even wiped it down and not one speck of rust on it. Where my Stainless Steel Sendero with Militec on it, had small rust spots. I swear by Duracoat now. You can even do it yourself with the proper equipment. I Feel that the prices Les charges in Eagle River are fair though. He breaks the weapons down, bead blasts them, coats them and clear coats them. Any color or combination you could dream up.
http://customfirearmfinishes.com/brochure/modules/home/

I am by no way affiliated with him, just the good work he does!
Steve

 

[ak_powder_monkey]

RIG #3 has stood up to what Juneau saltwater duck hunting could throw at my shotgun

 

[Doug in Alaska]

Very good info, thanks for starting this topic!!

outdsman,
You can't beat a Black-T finish but it is very expensive, around $300 for a bolt action rifle.

 

[smwwoody]

Gun Protection

Gun Protection

I have always been a real fan of break free CLP But I have found that this product beats it hands down here in south east on the water.

http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm

Woody

 

[gogoalie]

I like...

I like...

Vasoline on the barrel...goes on thick & stays for a long time & no water penetrates it unless it's wiped off & it takes a lot for it to wipe off...

 

[AKDoug]

I'm a big fan of Tetra products and have had good luck with them. I have a 45-70 blued Marlin that has spend a ton of time in the woods, including near the coasts, with Tetra protection and never a rust spot.

 

[BrownBear]

I've had a couple of rifles Black T'ed and even though expensive the stuff really works.

I learned about my favorite rust preventive around salt water from an old time bear guide. It is paste car wax. Degrease the external surfaces and rub on a couple of coats. Clean it off with solvent when you get home. I've got some "oldies but goodies" that have survived over 30 years around saltwater without a speck of rust. Most oils wear off on long hunts, but that's never happened with the wax.

 

[BucknRut]

I've had a couple of rifles Black T'ed and even though expensive the stuff really works.

I learned about my favorite rust preventive around salt water from an old time bear guide. It is paste car wax. Degrease the external surfaces and rub on a couple of coats. Clean it off with solvent when you get home. I've got some "oldies but goodies" that have survived over 30 years around saltwater without a speck of rust. Most oils wear off on long hunts, but that's never happened with the wax.

This is what I use(Johnson's paste wax, never car wax) to keep the unfinished cast iron on my woodworking tools from rusting (and as a preventative safety measure). BrownBear, do you coat the metal and the wood? What about internal mechanisms in the action? Just wondering.
Great site and thread!

 

[Chisana]

Birchwood Casey makes a product called Sheath that goes on as a liquid you apply to a clothe and it dries as a thin film. I have found it to work well on Kodiak and the Alaska Peninsula. It helps to apply a few coats and let them dry before you head into the field. Brownell's sells them in individual packs pre-applied to a clothe and they are good to throw in the pack along with a pull through thong type bore cleaner.

Having said that, Birdsong's Black T IS pretty hard to beat. I have it on four firearms.

 

[stevelyn]

I've had excellent results with Break-Free, but I also learned detailed disciplined gun care from Uncle Sam and carry a field cleaning kit in my pack and use as needed.

I've been conducting a year long experiment with Bullfrog on our cruiser shotguns and I'm impressed with the results.

 

[jdb3]

I too have Black T finishes on several of my long-guns. I don't think it is that expensive, I've seen blueing more expensive. I also have a friend that does teflon and it works well too. I've even had some of my stainless wheapons treated (cuts down on the glare). I am a Break-Free fan since living in Southeast Alaska in a tent with a wood stove. Never a bit of rust. Even the military has gone to it. Jim

 

[BrownBear]

I pop the barreled action from the stock and wax all external surfaces. Inner workings and the bore get Break Free or Remington's Eezox. No stones at Break Free, but I like the way Eezox dries to leave a film.