Pro Pioneer Pressure relief leaking...

hodgeman

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On this weekend's float hunt we were using a Pro Pioneer. We had an issue where the floor would lose and we tracked it to the valve above the fill valve on the floor- I believe it is a pressure relief so you don't bust stitching in the floor. Believe it probably has grit or sand in it.

Anyhow- anyone know of a way to clear it? Guessing if it doesn't work it'll take a trip to SOAR for a new one.
 

Bushwhack Jack

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On this weekend's float hunt we were using a Pro Pioneer. We had an issue where the floor would lose and we tracked it to the valve above the fill valve on the floor- I believe it is a pressure relief so you don't bust stitching in the floor. Believe it probably has grit or sand in it.

Anyhow- anyone know of a way to clear it? Guessing if it doesn't work it'll take a trip to SOAR for a new one.

The pressure relief valves are supposed to leak air if the tubes are overfull. Do they stop leaking at a certain point, or do they continue leaking even after the pressure has been relieved?
 

DannerAK

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Trying a blast of air from a hand pump or compressor. Just a blast or two could loosen sand particles or whatever is causing the valve to stay open. I used to have to battle that issue with ice, but I doubt that is the problem in this case.
 

Larry Bartlett

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Yep, i know what you're problem is...easy fix.

The PR valves from Taiwan are prone to leakage after a short stint in Alaska. To test the valve for certain to make sure it's leaking from the valve or rather around it is important. Just fill the PR hole with water and see if it bubble and girgles. If no, then your leak may be from around the valve seat.

If the PR valve is leaking from the center seal, two fixes:

1. In your repair kit there should be a screen filter that helps keep silt and debris out of the valve. If you have one, fill the entire screen outside with silicone or AquaSeal and let it dry...then do the same thing on the inside to ensure the screen is completely sealed. Once this screen is dry, you can use it while on-the-go to keep your PR valve from losing air. But, remove it when the boat is ashore so the PR valve can let pressure out of the floor to prevent I-beam blow-outs. The screen has a rubber body that fits perfectly in the PR valve hole. If you dont have one, get one from Alaska Raft and Kayak in Anchorage.

2. The 2nd fix is to find a small stone that can be wedged into the PR hole tightly enough to pressure the valve cap, which stops the leak. I prefer the sealed screen though because it's safer and can be taken out easily.

Last thing you could do is buy a new PR valve, but expect them all to seap eventually.

Good luck, guys.

Larry
 

anchorrivercrowds

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Glad I read this thread... it was my relief valve leaking.


I have read here many times the SOAR canoes have a bottom that grabs rocks. That's an understatement. Took my canoe out for a test drive on the Anchor river today... that bottom grabs more like throw you over the handle bars.. seems it has to be downright dangerous with a load? Guess plenty of loads have been hauled with them.
 

Michael Strahan

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Yep, i know what you're problem is...easy fix.

The PR valves from Taiwan are prone to leakage after a short stint in Alaska. To test the valve for certain to make sure it's leaking from the valve or rather around it is important. Just fill the PR hole with water and see if it bubble and girgles. If no, then your leak may be from around the valve seat.

If the PR valve is leaking from the center seal, two fixes:

1. In your repair kit there should be a screen filter that helps keep silt and debris out of the valve. If you have one, fill the entire screen outside with silicone or AquaSeal and let it dry...then do the same thing on the inside to ensure the screen is completely sealed. Once this screen is dry, you can use it while on-the-go to keep your PR valve from losing air. But, remove it when the boat is ashore so the PR valve can let pressure out of the floor to prevent I-beam blow-outs. The screen has a rubber body that fits perfectly in the PR valve hole. If you dont have one, get one from Alaska Raft and Kayak in Anchorage.

2. The 2nd fix is to find a small stone that can be wedged into the PR hole tightly enough to pressure the valve cap, which stops the leak. I prefer the sealed screen though because it's safer and can be taken out easily.

Last thing you could do is buy a new PR valve, but expect them all to seap eventually.

Good luck, guys.

Larry

Larry, doesn't fix #1 effectively disable the PR valve?

I wonder if the valve might be leaking because it has glacial silt in it and cannot seat properly? The NRS Otters have a P/R valve in the floor and I haven't had any leaks so far...

-Mike
 
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