newbie jumping into bow hunting, first bow recommendations?

[Martinezpj90]

Greetings all, i am looking into starting bow hunting and would like educated view points on what is a good beginner/intermediate compound bow. I am aware that there is a bow hunting safety class that is mandatory before i can begin hunting in bow only areas and such and plan on developing my shooting technique this fall through the winter and participate in the ADFG class next spring. I live in Wasilla/Palmer area and have a medium/fair budget based off what i see across the bow cost spectrum.

Thanks in advance.

 

[SmokeRoss]

If you want to hunt with a bow, don't buy a cheap beginner model. Also buy one you can crank the poundage up as you get used to it. I have mine set at 80 pounds. I'm still shooting aluminum shafts with old school Satellite 4 blade razor insert broadheads. I usually get pass through shots on moose. I have taken 19 moose with a bow.

 

[Martinezpj90]

If you want to hunt with a bow, don't buy a cheap beginner model. Also buy one you can crank the poundage up as you get used to it. I have mine set at 80 pounds. I'm still shooting aluminum shafts with old school Satellite 4 blade razor insert broadheads. I usually get pass through shots on moose. I have taken 19 moose with a bow.

appreciate the insight, is +- $600 for a bow considered cheap? i was trying to leave room for purchasing a target, arrows, tips, etc

 

[SmokeRoss]

600 should be a decent bow. You can make your own target with a canvas bag filled with shrink wrap. I have one hanging from a 2x4 frame in the back yard. Mine is white and I painted several bullseyes on it. You should have a back stop behind it. You will likely have some wide misses at first. Start shooting from rather close until you get the hang of it. Learn good form. If you don't have good form and proper follow through, you'll not ever get your full potential for accuracy. I practice from 40 yards for most of my back yard shooting. I like to be within 20 yards for the 1st shot at a moose though, but I have taken longer first shots depending on the situation. Once I have a hit it's game on and I'm shooting every chance I get until it's down.
Arrows and gear are expensive, but you really only need 3 or 4 practice arrows. Save the others for hunting. Shoot a few for a group, go pull them, and do it again.
Don't just take the advice of some dweeb behind the counter either when it comes to gear, broadheads, etc. Talk with fellow hunters. Of course you'll be taking the bow hunter education course also.
One of the biggest factors for bow hunters is knowing how to track and blood trail. It's best to spend some time with someone who has plenty of experience with that. I have had several buddies that have been with me on a blood trail that were surprised to see me get down on my hands and knees to blood trail. I take it slow and flag the trail as I go. I tracked one bull that was hit with a non fatal wound for 14 hours and covered more than a mile. Finished him off just before dark.

 

[Nunya]

My advice is to practice, practice, practice...standing and knelling and different angles...

 

[Daveinthebush]

I know of two really good shops, Full Curl Archery, south Anchorage and Screaming Eagle in Wasilla. They will have used bows as well as new ones. They can measure your draw length, master eye and get you set up. Some people have to have the "latest and greatest" and sell a bow after only a years use. I would highly advise going to a pro shop to get set up. Sometimes on Craigslist you can get a bow pretty cheap but if it has been dry fired, you'll have no idea. Its a chance you take buying used. But, military moves around a bit and a nice setup might be there for a good price.

For your first lesson: if you change something in your setup or shooting, only change one thing at a time. If you change two things, you don't know if 1. or 2. or the combination of the two, corrected the issue.

 

[Roger45]

My recommendation is to go to a Pro Archery shop near where you live, Alaska has a number of great shops. The folks know all the things to help you get stated. if you post where you live (or PM someone) maybe a local person will step up and give you some direct ideas. There are 3D shoots where folks have a set coarse that allows you to shoot life size animal targets where you could get tons of info too, but with the Zombie Apocalypse, I'm not sure if anyone is doing them this winter.

 

[AKBEE]

The advice to go to a good shop is exactly correct. Being fitted correctly for a beginner is paramount to shooting well and enjoying it. They should let you try different bows, releases (or tab/glove if shooting fingers), review advantages of aggressive cams vs wheels, lengths of bow, length of draw, length of arrows (overdraw or not), etc. there are many quality brands out there and like most hobbies- you can spend a lot quickly. You should have quality gear, lots of practice, common sense, appreciation of the hunt, and new appreciation for what range is considered ‘close enough’- archery is simply a blast!

 

[SmokeRoss]

The advice to go to a good shop is exactly correct. Being fitted correctly for a beginner is paramount to shooting well and enjoying it. They should let you try different bows, releases (or tab/glove if shooting fingers), review advantages of aggressive cams vs wheels, lengths of bow, length of draw, length of arrows (overdraw or not), etc. there are many quality brands out there and like most hobbies- you can spend a lot quickly. You should have quality gear, lots of practice, common sense, appreciation of the hunt, and new appreciation for what range is considered ‘close enough’- archery is simply a blast!

I agree with this, but make sure whoever you're dealing with actually has archery experience and isn't just some newby behind the counter.

 

[Alaska Bush Hunter]

Matthews suggest a older one Single Cam like Vapor 3s
for Alaska suggest 60# minimum.

 

[Chez]

Any reason you didnt choose a recurve or longbow?

 

[SmokeRoss]

Any reason you didnt choose a recurve or longbow?

Maybe he wants to actually be able to kill something. I shoot all the way through the moose I kill with my compound. It is cranked up to just under 80 pound draw weight.

 

[jrb]

When working on form I like the school of knock series on youtube. Get a bow that you can dial the poundage back while learning and shooting a bunch. Then slowly crank the poundage up as you build strength. You will have to adjust the sight as you increase poundage. I think a nice sight with micro adjust and slider pin is an amazing innovation. If I were to spend a little extra on a component it would be the sight.

 

[wildbluealaska2]

Just a comment on bow choice, from a fellow newbie. Last year was my first year bow-hunting, and second year learning/practicing and getting my Alaska bow-hunting certificate. My bow was a cheapo/basic Bear Approach, $350 full package deal (bow, quiver, sight, everything). I bought it because it was the “best budget bow” that was tested in some big bow-hunting review that I had read online. I found it to be heavy, strong, and at 65#, I was confident at 20, 30, and 40 yards, with the self-chosen ethic to not take any shots over 30 yards. I also recommend taking/getting your Alaska bow-hunting certificate (even though it is not required in most areas of Alaska), just because it is good basic info, and because the in-person field test forces you to make accurate shots under a bit of pressure. After nearly a month of slowly learning how these Sitka Blacktails act/more (they are not called Sitka Ghosts for nothing), I harvested my first delicious beauty at 28 yards. A week later I harvested my second at 19 yards, and felt that I had my spot n stalk technique dialed in. I even tried a few tree saddle sits, and had some chances to shoot but did not take them (bucks too small). Now that I am totally addicted to bow-hunting, I bought two new bows this year—a PSE EVO EVL and a PSE Stealth carbon Mach 1, and they feel and shoot like the superb weapons that they are! I am keeping my Mach 1 pretty stripped down (it is SUPER light), for going after mountain goats. But let me just say that I still love my “old” Bear Approach, and feel that it was/is a rock-solid fine piece of gear.

 

[Daveinthebush]

It sounds like you are doing great. I am in South Central and there are many draw hunts that you are required to have the archery certification so having it is a plus to have.

If you can use a tree stand your opportunities may go up. Another thing I use is a piece of camo netting with strings on the corners. I tie it between two trees and throw some natural vegetation up against it and I have a portable blind. I also have a three-legged stool for sitting. It only weighs ounces and for short walking distances it works great. You need to practice how you hunt so practice sessions in the yard sitting on it will help you. There are some excellent goat hunting books out there. When I try a new species, I buy 2-3 books and read them. Most of the information is redundant as I have been bow hunting whitetails for almost 50 years. But you never know if you can gleam that one item that may help you become successful. When I went to Africa the most important thing I found was a shot placement booklet that one professional hunter had. I had no idea that the organs were so low and forward. We never lost one animal.

Best of luck! As my ex-wife said once: Thanks for introducing our son to hunting. He can't afford drugs or alcohol.