M-70 re-barrel job

AV8R

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Is a M-70 SS a good candidate for custom work? Would it be a good idea to open up the bolt on an .06 to magnum proportions, or will that create problems with reliability? I just wanted to upsize the caliber to .300 or .333 mag if possible since I am a one gun hunter. Also I was wondering if it's a good idea to buy the barrel already short chambered or leave it all up to the smith? (which I have not located yet). I don't need a match grade gun, just decent accuracy and absolute reliability. Thanks.
 
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Chisana

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If you have a Winchester Model 70 stainless in 30-06 then you are already set with a perfect all around rifle for Alaska. If you use a good gunsmith opening up the action for a magnum cartridge and rebarreling is going to cost around $500 give or take including shipping. You could save that money and just buy a .338 if you wanted a little heavier rifle. If you are dead set on rebarreling then I would send the rifle to Pacnor or Mark Penrod and have them do the work. The work will be much better than anything you can get done in Alaska.
 

AV8R

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Thanks, I'm not unhappy with the .06, it's killed a lot of game for me, it's just that I bought it used and have been putting up with less than good accuracy for years...and if spending the money to re-barrel I thought maybe an upsize would be in order...like they say, you can down load a 300 to .06 levels...do you know of a website for the other smith you quoted, (not pacnor). Thanks.
 

Chisana

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Here's Mark's contact information, he does not have a website but you can see some of his work if you go to the Gunsmithing forum on www.accuratereloading.com. Search for mark Penrod and plenty of examples of his work will come up.

Penrod Precision
312 College Ave
N Manchester, IN 46962
Phone: 260-982-8385
E-mail: [email protected]
 

tvfinak

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Just buy another gun

Just buy another gun

Cheapest way out is just to buy another gun and sell your old one. Finding a SS Mdl. 70 in your favorite caliber is not hard and there are lots of barrels around also. I have one in .300 Win Mag I'll sell you; I upgraded it to a .375 H&H. Unless you are hung up on extreme accuracy I certainly wouldn't spring for a custom barrel. You can probably sell your '06 or trade up to a .300 Win mag for a $100 or so if you do shop around.


Is a M-70 SS a good candidate for custom work? Would it be a good idea to open up the bolt on an .06 to magnum proportions, or will that create problems with reliability? I just wanted to upsize the caliber to .300 or .333 mag if possible since I am a one gun hunter. Also I was wondering if it's a good idea to buy the barrel already short chambered or leave it all up to the smith? (which I have not located yet). I don't need a match grade gun, just decent accuracy and absolute reliability. Thanks.
 

AKJD

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Rebarrel

Rebarrel

As stated the easiest and most practical solution would be to find a .300 or .338 and sell your 30.06. You would most likely have a considerable wait if you send it to Penrod. I haven't had any work done by him but his reputation is first rate. I have had one rifle done by PACNOR and was very pleased with the work. I featherweight M70 Classic Stainless that now shoots well under MOA. I just had another M70 rebarreled and other work done. Cost for the work was around $500. That did not include the barrel which I supplied. The gunsmith goes by Redneck and you can contact him through the site if interested.
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...2708/Board/39/page/2/fpart/all/gonew/1#UNREAD

I have visited gunsmiths in Fairbanks and Anchorage and they pretty much convinced me I will get all my work done out of state.
 

OldRgr

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Your rifle should be good for well over 4000 rounds unless it was abused. Try cleaning it with Barnes or other amonium (sorry, I can spell) cleaner until the patches come out clean (not blue). If you can find someone with a bore score, look at the bore. I would be greatly surprised if it was shot out.

There is a couple inches difference in drop between the 06 and 300 at 300 yds, less than the thickness of a cross hair.

If you really want/need more power, sell the 06 and buy something else. If you do rebarrel, I would suggest going with a blank and not a short chamber. The tolerance used in threading the barrel shank makes a significant difference in accuracy. JMO. Good luck. J.
 

TomM

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As others have stated, not much you cant do with a stainless 30-06 M70. If you want something bigger, I probably jump up to a 375H&H. If you really want to re-barrel, look at the 35 whelen, no bolt face modifications necessary, just new barrel. Would make a good all-arounder.
 

Chisana

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You would most likely have a considerable wait if you send it to Penrod.

4-6 months for a standard rebarrel and restock with a McMillan stock. A big part of that is waiting for a barrel from the maker if you ask for something he does not have in stock. I have another project with Mark now. If you are doing a more elaborate, full blown metal project that would include surface grinding, welding, custom sights, quarters ribs, etc. he is about a year out.
 

whitlock

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I opened the bolt on my old M-70 30-06 to accept the 338 Win Mag case and turned it into a 30-338 Win Mag. I have not had any problem with it and it performs very well. You could also think about a 338-06 if you wanted too, it would make the job a little easier.

Whit
 

rdklinak

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338-06 ai

338-06 ai

Here's a second for the 338-06. I'll quiz my huntin buddy to get the specs on his and post them here. Mod 70 Classic Stainless Synthetic started life as an 06. Never had a round through it till it became a 338-06 Ackley Improved. He's within 100 fps of my win mag with 225 Nos Part. Custom trace of the winch barrel and a target crown on a 22.5" tube.

He's 1.5" shorter than I am, uses 15 grains less powder and packs one more round than I do... oh yeah.... it has less felt recoil than the 06 ever thought of.

Shipping included I think the tube swap cost him about $500.
 

brav01

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Performance

Performance

If you just want to increase the performance of the rifle you already have then send it to Z-HAT and have them turn it into a 300 HAWK. No rifle mods just a rechamber.
Uses ammo built on the 280 Remington case; Performs within 100 fps of a Win Mag, Uses less powder and lower recoil. Brass and ammo is available if you don't reload; it's cheaper if you do.

http://www.z-hat.com/300wsm.htm

Here's the link.
 

blackfoot

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The work will be much better than anything you can get done in Alaska.

That's a pretty broad statement. I know of at least two people that can complete the job as well as anybody. It's a pretty simple task, and any competent gunsmith can do it.
 

Chisana

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That's a pretty broad statement. I know of at least two people that can complete the job as well as anybody. It's a pretty simple task, and any competent gunsmith can do it.

It is a broad statement and I feel qualified to make it. I have spent 10s of thousands on custom gunsmithing work including best grade rifles that have been featured on tables at the American Custom Gunmaker's Guild show and have spent a lot of time in gunsmith shops learning what best quality work looks like and what goes into it.

Rebarreling an action is a relatively simple job, but you would be surprised how many people screw it up. There is a big difference between a functional job and best quality work. All depends on what a person's expectations are, mine are very high. I've seen work from pretty much every gunsmith I can find in Alaska and while there are some that do functional work there are none I would spend my money on.

I guess I would ask you how you know that those two people can do work as good as anyone? Ever seen or owned work done by someone like Mark Penrod, Jerry Fishery or Duane Wiebe?

I've also done a lot of competitive rifle shooting and know what it takes to build a winning rifle. Are your buddies building rifles that win at the national level like those built by Penrod, Clay Spencer, Al Warner and Jim Borden? If not then you may need to reevaluate your statement that their work is as good as anyone.
 

blackfoot

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Competitive

Competitive

As far as pretty goes, you may be right. I do know of a gunsmith in Alaska that has built a few rifles for me. He has held world records in benchrest competition, and has built guns that have held world records in benchrest competition. He has been recommended by the likes of Dan Lilja to build accurate hunting, varmint, or competition guns. Not trying to piss in your Cheerios, but I think your original statement is a discredit to those that are very highly qualified and reside here. I may have overstated when I said two, because I own a rifle done by another gunsmith that did fine on that one job, but I couldn't qualify how well most of his work turns out. I too have spent A LOT of money on custom rifles. The original question was by somebody that is a "one gun hunter", so I made the assumption that he's not looking to spend $4000-$40,000 on a custom rifle of the type you see at the American Custom Gunmaker's Guild show. I could change my statement to say if you are looking to have a rebarrel job done that is as accurate and functional a rifle as can be had, I know of somebody in Alaska that can do it as well as anybody. If you want a pretty rifle, you are probably correct in your original statement.
 

Chisana

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I'm not just talking about looks. I expect my best grade rifles to function 100% flawlessly all the time and to be accurate. I want the rifle to work right every time more than I want it to look good. I don't even spend a lot on my stock blanks - never spent more than $1000 on one. Once can easily spend $2500 on a blank if they want to and I typically go with 25% engraving coverage or less. The sky's the limit there.

There are some individual gunsmiths working in Alaska that do best quality work, but the only people I know of doing work like that in Alaska work out of their homes, do not advertise and do work pretty much only for themselves or for friends. I wouldn't have work done by any of the "name" shops in Alaska.

I heard that Homer Strickland did very good work, but am not sure if he is still around. If he is then I would recommend him for screwing on a new barrel.

I would argue that if the OP is a one gun hunter then he **** well better have the best he can get.
 

Alangaq

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I'm not just talking about looks. I expect my best grade rifles to function 100% flawlessly all the time and to be accurate. I want the rifle to work right every time more than I want it to look good. I don't even spend a lot on my stock blanks - never spent more than $1000 on one. Once can easily spend $2500 on a blank if they want to and I typically go with 25% engraving coverage or less. The sky's the limit there.

There are some individual gunsmiths working in Alaska that do best quality work, but the only people I know of doing work like that in Alaska work out of their homes, do not advertise and do work pretty much only for themselves or for friends. I wouldn't have work done by any of the "name" shops in Alaska.

I heard that Homer Strickland did very good work, but am not sure if he is still around. If he is then I would recommend him for screwing on a new barrel.

I would argue that if the OP is a one gun hunter then he **** well better have the best he can get.

I am thinking that your “best grade rifle” is priced WAY out of my reach! You say you’ve never spent more than $1000 on a stock blank??!! Dude…. Ive never spent more than $1000 on a complete rifle! :eek: Don’t get me wrong here… I would LOVE to have a $1000 chunk-o-wood for one of my guns… might make the blue worn and rust speckled barrels look stupid though….:D

Having said that, I think for most of us mere mortals with more simplistic desires and thinner wallets, that there are indeed several gunsmiths in Alaska, and in Anchorage in particular that produce very high quality work for reasonable prices that will provide accuracy and reliability very close, or on par with %99 of the smiths in the lower 48.

Andy Hawk gets all of my work, and I can honestly say that I am confident enough to bet my life on the quality of his craftsmanship… and in fact do, every time I drag one of my rifles down a scat covered bear trail!

If you interested, look him up. He’s in the book.
 

Chisana

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I am thinking that your “best grade rifle” is priced WAY out of my reach! You say you’ve never spent more than $1000 on a stock blank??!! Dude…. Ive never spent more than $1000 on a complete rifle! :eek: Don’t get me wrong here… I would LOVE to have a $1000 chunk-o-wood for one of my guns… might make the blue worn and rust speckled barrels look stupid though….:D

Having said that, I think for most of us mere mortals with more simplistic desires and thinner wallets, that there are indeed several gunsmiths in Alaska, and in Anchorage in particular that produce very high quality work for reasonable prices that will provide accuracy and reliability very close, or on par with %99 of the smiths in the lower 48.

Andy Hawk gets all of my work, and I can honestly say that I am confident enough to bet my life on the quality of his craftsmanship… and in fact do, every time I drag one of my rifles down a scat covered bear trail!

If you interested, look him up. He’s in the book.

Not everyone has the same taste in rifles or means to obtain them. The OP asked for opinions and thus will receive a variety of options presented from several points of view. I'm glad you've found someone you are comfortable with to do work for you. So have I and they are building more rifles for me right now.

Andy Hawk must do very reasonably priced work if you don't have more than $1000 in any of your rifles, just a McMillan plastic stock and a Leupold scope is going to run nearly $1000. That doesn't include a rebarrel job, trigger work, metal finish or base rifle to build on.

Some folks think best grade rifles are not meant to hunt with, but mine have been on top of sheep mountains and hauled around moose meadows.
 

Alangaq

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Chisana,

Sorry, I should have been more specific… I don’t have more than $1000 in any “basic” rifle. By the time you add in smithwork, optics etc. I have 2 in the battery of 20+ firearms that have exceeded the $1000 mark. Yep, I am pretty much a cheap ass…. In fact I have only bought 4 "new" firearms in my entire life. All the countless others than have come and gone, and most all that have stayed have been used, and in some cases WELL used before I ever got them.

As for Andy, I think his prices are about average, perhaps a tad less, but buy no means “cheap”. Like the rest of us, the guy has got to eat and pay the bills.

He did a re-barrel on a SA Rem 700 for me last year (I supplied the barrel) and although I cant remember the exact charges, I am sure it was less than $200… in fact, $150 really sticks in my mind, but I cant be sure. Anyway, it was a simple change from .243 to 308, so no bolt work was required. I think all he had to do was turn the shoulder back a tad to get the wording on the barrel were it was supposed to be and then finish ream to get the headspace.

Anyway, as they say round some parts, “his work is good enough for the girls I go out with”…..
 
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