Conex at Remote Location

stillapa12drvr

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Thinking of putting a 20' Conex at the cabin for dry-ish and secure-ish storage.. looking for any thoughts / experiences: I've got a contact to get it hauled in and I have good ground (gravel with good drainage) to put it on but just wondering about folks experience out in the boonies:

- Should it be placed on sleepers? Other "foundation"?
- I can't help but think that interior condensation will be present ? (not a huge issue just a consideration)
- Any general insights? Anyone have a Conex at an off-grid location?

TIA
 

AGL4now

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I have a fair amount of experience with them. I have (5) Five here at my homestead, and they have been here for 23 years, Never Had any condensation in them. But I take my boots off in the winter if I need to go inside. They will cave in if the snow load is excessive. I have to keep shoveling the snow off all winter. I hauled some into Safari Lake up out of Trappers Creek, and on one the snow caved the roof in. My neighbor nearly lost two this past winter to snow load. Beef up the center, and they will be fine. Yes.......set them on something. You don't want to have to dig down to jack it up level. Rail road ties are perfect. Also makes it easier to get the doors open if there is five feet of snow. If the cabin is going to be in the family for many generations, might just put a 4/12 pitch roof with metal roofing.
 

SmokeRoss

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I welded up a skid for my 20' conex and towed it into my property, loaded, behind a dozer. Keeps the thieves from stealing stuff.
 

AKBEE

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I set mine on 4 railroad ties (2 high) on each end and it has been a huge help having a fairly secure place to store things. I do get condensation with putting snowmachines in it. I think I will blow foam next summer. We plan to get another and put a covered area between them. Like AGL said- don’t let the roofs accumulate too much snow. Conexes are tough, but designed to support weight at corners- not the roof itself.
 

kobuk

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I have a 20footer and love it. I built trusses that have a pretty big overhang and a metal roof. This is where I store my firewood. I can get 3 rows under each eve. I wish I would have put it on taller timbers and I just releveled it this year. I don't have it vented and so far I haven't had any condensation. I also wired it for lights and outlets.
 

Daveinthebush

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I have two that I put 14' apart and I build a roof over them to store the boat in between. Works great but the roof had to be constructed for Valdez snow loads. 10" x 12" beams to support our snow and I could only get a 5/12 pitch. It still sheds. I have only had to have it shoveled once.
 

stillapa12drvr

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Thanks to all for the great insight and experience notes. Now on to the logistics evaluation :hmm:.
 

AKBEE

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I have two that I put 14' apart and I build a roof over them to store the boat in between. Works great but the roof had to be constructed for Valdez snow loads. 10" x 12" beams to support our snow and I could only get a 5/12 pitch. It still sheds. I have only had to have it shoveled once.

Dave:

If you don’t mind sharing, how far is the spacing on those monstrous beams, and why were you only able to get 5/12 pitch?
A friend of mine’s mother was in charge of snow removal down there and she showed me some photos of areas cleared that are absolutely insane looking. Totally different snow loads there.
 

Daveinthebush

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I built a front wall at 8' in height across the conexes with a beam between them. The beam even with the top of the wall spanning the 14' distance apart. Tapered the roof down to the rear which had a beam also. So one up front, the middle and the rear wall. Pretty much 10' apart with 10" TJI's on top of that 2' o.c. and 5/8" sheathing. I think that is more like 4.2/12. I needed help on the front beam lifting the 2x12's up 8' and plywood in between. The rest I did myself. I use my ATV a lot. I put the two 2x4x16's on the back side for a ramp and the sheathing on the lower side and pulled it up to the top with the ATV. My buddy thinks I'm part Egyptian when it comes to figuring things out. I added the front overhang this year as the larger boat required it. Then I took the rear wall and moved it out 8' to the rear again to accominidate the boat. Added the side shed for the tractor. 20200905_131713[1].jpg 20200905_131818[1].jpg
 

AKBEE

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Dave: Thank you for the photo’s and explanation. Very nicely done and affords a lot of height/usable space. We plan to set another conex parallel to the current one and had not considered your roof configuration. Great job!
 

Daveinthebush

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Thank you for the positive comments. Up above each conex there is a 10'x8' long storage area. Shrimp gear goes up out of bears reach and anything not used very often. I also overlapped the side siding by 2" over the conex. I used #12 self tapping screws every 12" into the conex so it doesn't take off like an airplane wing. The front wall, stub wall in the middle are also bolted thru the roof. Even the rear beam is bolted down with angle iron L brackets thru the roof. It works.
 

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