boat prep for fiberglass folks

ocnfish

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No comments from the Aluminum guys (aka peanut gallery) that only clean the boat if the wife is going to be on board and does not want to smell dried fish slime and snooze spit. Just kidding I have seen well cared for big aluminum at the docks, just not so much.
What do the fiberglass folks out there do to prep the glass forthe season?

I do the following:

1.) Pressure-wash before I back her into the hangar.

2.) Over the winter I fixed or had serviced the following:
a.) Quart of Stabil in about 75 gallons of gas.
b.) Replaced Anchor light, installed new fixture.
c.)Replaced the macerator pump.
d.)Removed the leaking drainage plug and silicone caulked and reinstalled.
e.) Replaced stressed wiring in the engine compartment.
f.) Chopped off the first 30 ft ofanchor line and spliced to the anchor (yes, I used a tube of superglue to secure the splice).
before I brought her home SHIP in Seward changed oil and all filters.

3.) In the last 30 hrs in April and May worked on the glass,did the following:
a.) Cleaned, enlarged and filled gelcoat nicks and divots … mix up gel coat, use metal pick to fill problem areas,next place cut piece plastic bag over the patch and then tape tight withmasking tape.
b.) Go around and remove as much harbor rash as possible with “magic eraser” I get the cheap Wal-Mart variety.
c.) Spray water mist on the hulland apply the Oxidation Remover and Heavy Duty Cleaner to one side of the hull, use 6”
buffer withfoam pad with some moisture to buff the entire surface. After buffed out use bigcotton towel to remove most of the
cleaning material. Next use microfiber towelto finish the job.

d.) Fiberglass will look good now but you need to apply Carnauba wax to the entire surface with a cloth foam interior cotton
applicator, small circles, do not use too much if you see excess wax spread it out. Let it dry, go have a beer and some snacks,
when it looks a little white come back with a big cotton towel and wipe it off. l then use the big buffer to amp up the shine and
after that pass I go back with a microfiber towel to touch up any missed areas.


Nothing to it but to do it! This girl is 11 years old.
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akmike30

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This is my is ospery. 10 hours of buffing
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joebut1985

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I don't have an osprey but I do have a fiberglass boat. This spring I basically did the same thing. I washed the boat thoroughly, used an oxidation remover by marykate, any gelcoat damage that needed repair was done. After all that was done I used acetone to remove any and all wax or oils that may have been on the rest of the boat. I then buffed the entire boat with a 100% wool pad with 3m heavy duty. After buffing I washed and removed any residue of the compound and dried. Once dried I use a polishing pad with 3m finnese it 2 glaze, at this point the boat had almost a mirror like finish. Washed and rinsed off any residue of the glaze. Once dried I then applied a 3m marine wax(not sure if there was a difference between marine and auto) and cleared off with micro fiber cloth. Took about a weeks worth of afternoons and a weekend but the boat now has a mirror like finish. After doing all of that I am still planning on waxing it at least another 2-3 times depending on how many times I take it out. I was also told that to help with the oxidation to apply the wax at the end of the season and leave it on and that would help prevent it from oxidating as fast. Does anyone know how much it is to have a shop do this kind of work?
 

breausaw

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Nice job, gel coat repair is next on my list. I just spent the last 2 weeks ripping out and replacing all navigation Systems, just want to enjoy the boat a bit before diving back in. The hardest part I find with gel coat repair is getting the color right.
 

Frostbitten

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I don't have an osprey but I do have a fiberglass boat. This spring I basically did the same thing. I washed the boat thoroughly, used an oxidation remover by marykate, any gelcoat damage that needed repair was done. After all that was done I used acetone to remove any and all wax or oils that may have been on the rest of the boat. I then buffed the entire boat with a 100% wool pad with 3m heavy duty. After buffing I washed and removed any residue of the compound and dried. Once dried I use a polishing pad with 3m finnese it 2 glaze, at this point the boat had almost a mirror like finish. Washed and rinsed off any residue of the glaze. Once dried I then applied a 3m marine wax(not sure if there was a difference between marine and auto) and cleared off with micro fiber cloth. Took about a weeks worth of afternoons and a weekend but the boat now has a mirror like finish. After doing all of that I am still planning on waxing it at least another 2-3 times depending on how many times I take it out. I was also told that to help with the oxidation to apply the wax at the end of the season and leave it on and that would help prevent it from oxidating as fast. Does anyone know how much it is to have a shop do this kind of work?

Joebut, my 2359 is ready for "the treatment"...I'll supply the beer!!!!!
 

ocnfish

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Beer might be the most important ingredent applied in small doses to relieve the strained muscles from all the elbow grease that is required. I plan on a sea test tomorrow heading down to Seward .... at the docks about noon, run out to Thumbs and see how she is working, over night and then on Friday get up early and run out to Cape Mansfield and try to catch a few small halibut and rockfish.
 

potbuilder

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I don't have an osprey but I do have a fiberglass boat. This spring I basically did the same thing. I washed the boat thoroughly, used an oxidation remover by marykate, any gelcoat damage that needed repair was done. After all that was done I used acetone to remove any and all wax or oils that may have been on the rest of the boat. I then buffed the entire boat with a 100% wool pad with 3m heavy duty. After buffing I washed and removed any residue of the compound and dried. Once dried I use a polishing pad with 3m finnese it 2 glaze, at this point the boat had almost a mirror like finish. Washed and rinsed off any residue of the glaze. Once dried I then applied a 3m marine wax(not sure if there was a difference between marine and auto) and cleared off with micro fiber cloth. Took about a weeks worth of afternoons and a weekend but the boat now has a mirror like finish. After doing all of that I am still planning on waxing it at least another 2-3 times depending on how many times I take it out. I was also told that to help with the oxidation to apply the wax at the end of the season and leave it on and that would help prevent it from oxidating as fast. Does anyone know how much it is to have a shop do this kind of work?

I'd bet the buff & wax would be over a grand for your size boat.
 

Sobie2

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I'd bet the buff & wax would be over a grand for your size boat.

And well worth it! This morning my shoulder is killing me from doing just the color stripe on my Uniflite last night...

Sobie2
 

theultrarider

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WOW that's a lot, parts and supplies didn't even cost half that much. But I guess there was a lot of labor involved. I will probably keep doing it myself.

Figure $100 an hour for labor. How many hours have you got into buffing it out? I've got about 20 into mine now. Figure I have about 10 hours left to go. I work cheap!
 

ocnfish

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Potbuilder .... you are right about paying someone else to do the work. I talked with Steve at CAC Plastics in Wasilla and he said he gets these requests all the time and when he gives them a quote ..... they say no thanks. The only thing that justifies the work is that a fiberglass boat can look like new for 50 ... 75 years. The only guys that might face greater maintenance challenges are the classic wood boat guys .... now that is a real challenge.

BTW ... have a leak around the engine and I refuse to soak my oil pan in salt water any more. Based upon the advice from Matt at SHIP in Seward I am going to jack up the nose of the boat as much as possible, disconnect the battterys and fill the engine compartment with fresh water and find where it is coming from. I should be catching fish .... oh well.
 

potbuilder

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Potbuilder .... you are right about paying someone else to do the work. I talked with Steve at CAC Plastics in Wasilla and he said he gets these requests all the time and when he gives them a quote ..... they say no thanks. The only thing that justifies the work is that a fiberglass boat can look like new for 50 ... 75 years. The only guys that might face greater maintenance challenges are the classic wood boat guys .... now that is a real challenge.

BTW ... have a leak around the engine and I refuse to soak my oil pan in salt water any more. Based upon the advice from Matt at SHIP in Seward I am going to jack up the nose of the boat as much as possible, disconnect the battterys and fill the engine compartment with fresh water and find where it is coming from. I should be catching fish .... oh well.



I've never buffed or waxed any of my glass boats ! Had my bowpicker for 20 years never waxed it, hell i never even washed the hull with soap & water LOL! The lobsterboat is a hunter green color and i'd like to buff it back to its original color, maybe next year. Don't want to buff them to much you'll go right through the gelcote !
As for your leak it might be coming in through the steering helmet bushing, next time out try backing down hard and have someone watch the inside where the steering helmet shaft comes through. Mine would leak if i didn't keep it well greased. The exhaust tube also goes through the transom shield down low that might have a pinhole in it, with the dry diesel fuel we now have there have been lots of drives eaten out in the intermediate housing in the center part of the drive. Check the orings around the raw water pump and on the aftercooler if its a older engine or maybe the hose clamps if its a newer engine with hose barb fittings. Maybe when running look under the aftercooler, it has a drain hole to get rid of water if the core has sprung a leak put your finger over it to feel if its pushing out air. Just go for a good ride let someone else steer and crawl all around the engine with a good strong flashlight looking for a dribble. PM me if you want the best volvo outdrive guy in the states contact number.
 

ocnfish

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Post has taken a right turn .... in my opinion that is OK. First .... I actually am getting an education in gelcoat from CAC Plastics (Steve is the best) and I do enjoy when people to come up to me at the docks and want to know if it is a new boat and laugh as I tell them that she is 11 years old. It can be done and there is a good answer to Fiberglass restoration and preseveration.

Beyond that I have a Volvo Penta 290 outdrive with SS #3 props and a 5.7 GI injected 280 hp engine(518 hours), the outdrive is new as of last fall and has about 4 hours on it. Because of all that I think the boat came from Osprey with a leak in the mount that supports the outdrive. Water moves from aft forward and that can only mean the drainage plug, redid that with good marine silicon, or the swim platform or the outdrive mount, going to jack the nose up tomorrow and put some fresh water in the back to see anything obvious. I think she gets water in the engine compartment faster when we are under way but it still accumulates when we are at anchor.

Also the Raw water pump and fittings, hoses and clamps are good, have checked that out at rest in Thumbs cove water moved from back to front, raw water is infront of the engine.


Still a head scratch but your info might help.


Thanks
 

potbuilder

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Post has taken a right turn .... in my opinion that is OK. First .... I actually am getting an education in gelcoat from CAC Plastics (Steve is the best) and I do enjoy when people to come up to me at the docks and want to know if it is a new boat and laugh as I tell them that she is 11 years old. It can be done and there is a good answer to Fiberglass restoration and preseveration.

Beyond that I have a Volvo Penta 290 outdrive with SS #3 props and a 5.7 GI injected 280 hp engine(518 hours), the outdrive is new as of last fall and has about 4 hours on it. Because of all that I think the boat came from Osprey with a leak in the mount that supports the outdrive. Water moves from aft forward and that can only mean the drainage plug, redid that with good marine silicon, or the swim platform or the outdrive mount, going to jack the nose up tomorrow and put some fresh water in the back to see anything obvious. I think she gets water in the engine compartment faster when we are under way but it still accumulates when we are at anchor.

Also the Raw water pump and fittings, hoses and clamps are good, have checked that out at rest in Thumbs cove water moved from back to front, raw water is infront of the engine.


Still a head scratch but your info might help.


Thanks

I thought you had the diesel. If you find its leaking around the transom shield or through the swim step bolts i'd be concerned about a waterlogged transom core(most likely plywood). Hope it isn't any of those. I would check the steering helmet bushing though
 

ocnfish

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If it matters .... Jacked up the boat until the first axel on the King trailer was spinning free, unhooked all electrical (3 batterys) with the plug in filled the engine compartment to the stringers that are the motor mount support, no leaks anywhere after lots of gallons of fresh water, most of the way to the resting water line.

This is the puzzle, more water coming in while in cruze, less when anchored up, coming from the aft? What other thru the hull fittings are close by and could get water into the engine compartment? There is a drain going from the topside/outside of each fish box of the thru the hull fitting, keeps water from rain and spray from getting into the fish boxes . Driver side, I believe starboard, the view after removing the rodholder plastic was real damp to say the least. The bottom of the fishboxes have the drain to the macerator pump and they held, well, really nasty water, all winter until I started to think about getting back out on the watter, I think that these drains , especially the starboard one are letting salt water into the boat, and this was an issue from ..... I believe , day one.


Today, I used 3-M 5200 selant / caulk to seal all access to the hull from anything going thru the hull. I placed 1 & 1/4 inch plugs in those at or blow the water line fittings for fishbox drainage. Need to let the 3 M selant harden and Thursday it is off again to Seward to see if I found ther source of my problem.


BTW ... Potbuilder .... You were right to be concerned about the steering .... Matt at SHIP in Seward said that that could create a one way leak, but with my boat that connection is at the top of the outdrive it is above the waterline.
 

akmike30

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Thanks for the update. I to have alittle bit a water getting in some how.
 

potbuilder

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BTW ... Potbuilder .... You were right to be concerned about the steering .... Matt at SHIP in Seward said that that could create a one way leak, but with my boat that connection is at the top of the outdrive it is above the waterline.[/QUOTE]

Water will slosh in when your on the drift or anchored. Thats why i told ya to back down hard with it to see if any water comes in.
 

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