Beginner Questions

SperBear

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I have a few questions for the experienced trappers

1.) How exactly does the "newspaper" box set up work? Im guessing slits are cut on each side to hold the conibear type traps, and the animals crawl right through the box into the trap? Could someone explain to me exactly how this works, their most successful set-ups/modifications using this?
 

martentrapper

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You already got the idea, what you said is how it's done. You can fold the springs against the side of the plastic tube to put pressure on the trap and help hold it solid.
Bait/lure in the back, conibear in the front, the marten or weasel, or mink has to go thru the trap to get to the bait.
 

trapperbob

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Picture in trapping pics thread

Picture in trapping pics thread

There is a picture of a newspaper box set with a marten catch in that thread. If the slots are cut the right size the trap will fit snug as the box is tapered.
 

imauspilot

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News paper box trap.

News paper box trap.

Trapperbob,
Would you please do a small thread with pictures about making and setting this type of trap. I have never dealt with type of setup before. Thanks for the help.
 

imauspilot

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A Big Thanks

A Big Thanks

Thanks Trapperbob for the link. Its great to know there are people who love the outdoors as much as me and my wife, and who are willing to share knowledge. Thanks again.

Highest Regards.
Mark....aka....imauspilot
 

SperBear

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Thanks

Thanks

Thanks for the information and link, both were great. I heard this weekend from a fellow trapper that Wolverines aren't always hard to get trapped, but once trapped they go absolutely nuts. He said that they have chewed and ripped apart his traps before. What is the best trap to use for wolverines?
Also, I figured 110 conibears would work for marten. What about lynx and again wolverine? This could be snares, leg holds, or conibears? Which brands are reliable? So far I have seen mostly "Duke" traps, any suggestions?

Sorry to pick brains, but I am very interested in trapping, and not experienced at all. Thanks again for everything!
 

trapperbob

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Conibears

Conibears

It always varies by region but I always say catch wolverines with a 330 conibear to produce an undamaged fur. They stay working and if set where they must enter the trap they deliver quick death. I strongly recommend looking at the canadien trap info on the ADF&G trapping page. 120's for marten are my minimum but if I were going to buy new traps I would look at the belisle's they are more expensive but I would say extremely humane. Limited struggle always delivers better fur. I like BMI conibears because the springs are considerably stronger. I use a coil spring laminated jaw #4 trap for lynx to get that big foot. If you are snaring wolverines use big ones with nine guage wire and do everything possible to catch the neck or there will likely be fur damage. I have sold almost all my wolverines to taxidermists for up to $500.00 but they want undamaged furs. I have been trying a 330 called a dislocator with offset top jaws and adjustable triggers. I have liked it so far but the springs are not as stout as mt BMI's. I use BMI 120 magnums and have liked them for marten, however mink have been able to get through the tight triggers so I set them with astrong 110 with mink wire kits on the triggers. Have fun out there. I had a nice male Wolverine working a set prior to opener. Hoping to have him tommorrow.
 

martentrapper

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While instant death does help prevent fur damage from the caught animals struggles, there are other factors that also can damage/ruin a pelt.
In much of Alaska, especially with current weather trends, warm spells of above freezing temps can effect a trappers area. Animals that die instantly die with a warm belly. If cold temps don't freeze that belly, it wil sour and can cause slippage of fur. This can happen even at temps slightly below 32 degrees F. Marten, fox, and lynx are especially vulnerable to belly spoilage, as are wolves.
The other problem with quick deaths is voles and shrews. If your catch dies on the ground, the voles/shrews will be on it quickly. They will chew holes in the skin, and sometimes strip patches of fur off. One of the reasons trappers use elevated sets is to keep the catch off the ground and away from the little preds.
None of this means I'm suggesting trappers shouldn't use sets that result in quick death. I would suggest taking your areas temps into consideration and getting a feel for how bad ground critters are. Some areas are worse than others for voles/shrews.
Just about all traps/snares/conibears are "humane" when used properly. Any decent quality #4 size trap will work for lynx, and generally hold a wolverine as well. The Minnesota brand traps, mb650 and mb750 are both real good, tho a little spendy. I know trappers that use the 750 for wolf.
Anyone who is real interested in trapping should be joining the Nat. Trappers Assoc. and their state assoc. The NTA puts out an excellent magazine with alot of info, 10 times a year I think.
I would also suggest logging on to www.trapperman.com regularly. There has been an Alaskan thread there for some time now. Good info can also be found on the Alaska Trapping forum, but you have to be a member to view it. They had problems with a hacker.
 

Kusko

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Great Reply MT....I guess you are valuable to this site!!! :)
 

fishermann222

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MT

MT

Good advice MT I have had one or two fox with some fur damage on them from rubbing because they did not die in the footholds. The flip side is when I used to snare I would have fox eaten all the time by other fox. Last year in my snares I lost 3, the year before I lost even more. I prefer a live fox over a dead one anyday.
 

martentrapper

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I have heard that when the rabbits crash and the lynx get hungry, the large males will kill smaller ones to eat, and any lynx will canniballize a dead one. I know a talented trapper in Albeta who will only use legholds when his lynx pop is declining due to the other lynx eating the dead ones in snares.
 

trapperbob

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Not wanting to debate it

Not wanting to debate it

He asked about wolverines and their belly's will not burn. Wolverine pelts are about as durable as any, even if they appear dark or are a little stinky it would take a lot of rotting to get one to slip. I have had shrews damage mink and marten on the ground, but they generally leave wolverines alone. The exception is I had them chew a little nose flesh of one once but no hair damage. Footheld wolverines that are alive will have foot damage if they have been there any time. Both that I have snared were dead so they were at the same risk as one in a conibear. My cubbies look like a bomb shelter to keep eagles out and to cover the critter once its caught, you don't have that advantage with a snare. I noted above technique will always vary with target and region.
 

martentrapper

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Mud......drive around until you find a newspaper tube that is too your liking and where there are many of them on mail box posts. Pick out 3 and hit them with a bat or something until the crack and break slightly...........but not enough so you can't use them. After you break them, call the newspaper company and complain your box is broken. Once they replace it, offer to buy the broken one!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise you might just call whatever company has tubes around the area and see if they have any that are already broken/cracked/ etc.
 

martentrapper

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The Best

The Best

What is the best trap to use for wolverines?

Ok, you asked about wolverine. That is the kind of question that will get 10 different answers from 10 different people. The best answer I can give is that the best trap depends on the situation. What can you afford? 10 snares would be cheaper than 10 mb-650s. Coni's for wolverine aren't cheap either. How many wolverine are in your area? Lots, or just a couple? The answer will effect your choice of traps.
I like to have a choice so generally have traps, snares, and coni's in my sled when out setting. I'll often use more than one type at a set.
I would disagree, Bob, that wolverine will not burn. They will, tho they are more resistant than other species. I would also suggest that there are legholds that will hold wolverine with little or no damge to the foot. They do chew on the trap/foot, but a small, strong trap, like an mb-650 will hold them and give them very little room to chew (they only chew below the trap).

Each trapper needs to asses his choices, terrain, weather, etc, etc and use what he thinks will work best for him.
 

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