anchor drum winch install options

ioski

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Hi all, looking for some anchor drum install advice/recommendations.

I have an EZ-4 and I've seen this and other brands installed various ways.
The boat is a Hewescraft OP 220.

1. I've seen the winch mounted on the existing diamond plate right on the bow
(thought this may be too close to the bowsprit but bowsprit roller to center of drum is ~18", drum higher than bowsprit roller)

2. mounted vertically on the wall just aft of the bow area
(would need to add a flat roller, drum center lower than bowsprit roller, a bit further than from bowsprit)

3. an aluminum mounting plate added/welded further astern
(would get more distance between bowsprit roller and center of drum)

4. mounted on the deck
(more distance between roller and center of drum, but center of drum would be much lower than the bowsprit, need flat roller)
(my boat does not have an extended bowsprit like the sample photo)

5. on deck but on added/welded platform
(more distance between roller and center of drum, center of drum level with the bowsprit, need flat roller)

6, 7, etc...?

Any mount further astern would lessen the lever arm (moment) in a minor way (bow down) because the winch weighs 80 pounds.

Thanks, ioski
 

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tom_in_ak

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Im not familiar with your boat, so can only speak for the puller. I have had a few e-z's. If you want it to spool the line like a fishing reel, it likes to be set back and elevated a bit. 3-4ft. Similar to #4. Add at least a foot to whatever e-z says.

Most any of these options will work if you get the remote and help it some(spool the line where it needs to be, make sure doesn't double back up on itself). Don't worry about the bow weight too much, the couple boats that I know of all preformed better with puller mounted. These are great winches, changed the game for me in PWS as far as anchoring goes.
 

dahlenburg

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I added the exact same winch last year. I mounted mine to the deck with a spacer made from a cutting board. The center of the drum is slightly lower that the bow sprit but only rubs if almost all the line it out so I don't use a flat roller. I would highly recommend a hinged or self launching bow sprit as a must so you don't have to go push it off each time.
 

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ioski

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Thank you to Dave and Dahlenburg for your feedback and recommendations.
I'm leaning towards option 1 or 3. The path of least resistance is #1 for now and that wouldn't preclude me from doing #3 later on if needed. -ioski
 

Daveinthebush

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I added the exact same winch last year. I mounted mine to the deck with a spacer made from a cutting board. The center of the drum is slightly lower that the bow sprit but only rubs if almost all the line it out so I don't use a flat roller. I would highly recommend a hinged or self launching bow sprit as a must so you don't have to go push it off each time.
At one time, mine looked kind of like yours. Where the chain comes off the bow roller, above the front cleat, the area where the diamond plate is, I added a piece of flat nylon (secondhand store cutting board) that I cut and routed the edges to give the rode a smooth surface to slide over.
 

dahlenburg

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I would probably go with option 4 if it was me just for the fact that I wouldn't want it sticking up blocking my view. Not sure how high you sit when driving but if I went on top it would be a huge obstruction. The Rebel 4 should come with a flat roller, at least mine did. This of course would be if you had enough room between the flat roller and the drum. The directions list the minimum distance needed from the last roller as 12" to 24" for the rode to lay flat.

I also like the fact that I can see the bow roller and make sure the rope is not getting bound up and when the anchor is close. The reason I painted the end of my chain orange is so I know when the anchor is close and I just bump the switch from there until it is all the way in and this makes it less likely that I bust my Zip ties holding the chain.
 

dahlenburg

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Looking at the options again I think if you went with option 5 you would not need a flat roller if the center of the drum was raised to the same height as the bow sprit. That is essentially how I have mine but without the need for a platform.

If you decide to go with a remote you can get the exact same remote that lone star and EZ puller use on amazon for a whole lot less. I do like the remote for when the zip tie breaks. Makes it easy to back off a little line and swing the anchor over to reset. The link is the one I got and it works great.
Amazon winch remote
 

Daveinthebush

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The reason I painted the end of my chain orange is so I know when the anchor is close and I just bump the switch from there until it is all the way in and this makes it less likely that I bust my Zip ties holding the chain.
I do kind of the same thing. I use a couple florescent orange zip ties, so I see them when the chain is about 3' from the anchor and the bow roller.
 

akgriz

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The farther back you put the winch the better it will spool up correctly rather than bunching in the middle. Farther back also keeps it from blocking the driver's view. I'd go #3 at a minimum.

Remote is "mandatory." Bright colored marker zip ties are better than paint which wears off (ask me how I know).

I'm surprised Dburgh is able to break a chain/anchor zip tie--I have a Rebel 5, and bring it straight in to the bowsprit (sometimes way too hard) and have never popped one since the "pull" is on the anchor itself and not the zip tie. How are you rigging that? I zip the anchor shank on top of the chain so it rolls smoothly through the guide rather than digging into the roller, and (knock on wood) have never popped a tie while seating the anchor.
 

dahlenburg

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The farther back you put the winch the better it will spool up correctly rather than bunching in the middle. Farther back also keeps it from blocking the driver's view. I'd go #3 at a minimum.

Remote is "mandatory." Bright colored marker zip ties are better than paint which wears off (ask me how I know).

I'm surprised Dburgh is able to break a chain/anchor zip tie--I have a Rebel 5, and bring it straight in to the bowsprit (sometimes way too hard) and have never popped one since the "pull" is on the anchor itself and not the zip tie. How are you rigging that? I zip the anchor shank on top of the chain so it rolls smoothly through the guide rather than digging into the roller, and (knock on wood) have never popped a tie while seating the anchor.
I started attaching the chain to the bottom of the shank which definitely helps but still breaks some times if I bring it in too fast. It seems to happen more in rough weather and if bringing in too fast and the chain is twisted slightly it will even try and come in upside down which is usually when I end up breaking the tie.

I have a feeling that part of the reason why is that my bow roller is fairly narrow and does not have enough room for the anchor to roll over if the shank has started to pass through it sideways or upside down. I have been considering using an anchor turner like the picture below and would be curious if anyone else has used one before and if they like it. I have just gotten used to going slow when close though.
 

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bottom_dweller

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Which ever configuration you choose, make absolutely sure that the center of the drum is 100% perpendicular to the last roller. Also I have seen a lot of these setups using samson braid after the chain. Double braided nylon is a much better choice. I have to anchor my big boat close to shore in my fisheries. Double braided nylon has a lot of stretch. If and when you come up hard on the rode, it gives. Zero stretch in samson. When you come up hard on it, something has to give. Parts on the boat or a dragging anchor.
 

Daveinthebush

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As someone wrote above the remote is awesome. I get about 98% good retrieves. If I break the strings/zip ties for the chain on the front of the anchor, obviously it isn't going to come into the bow roller. That means a trip up front and you signaling to someone instructions and profanities until you get it up and in.

Then sometimes you want to do some checking, unraveling, maintenance. I can stand on the dock and launch mine and walk the rode out using the remote. Then I just stand there and rewind it using a glove until it is good again.

BK Marine also sells the remote and you know that it is configured for your electrical system/components.
 

ioski

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I added the exact same winch last year. I mounted mine to the deck with a spacer made from a cutting board. The center of the drum is slightly lower that the bow sprit but only rubs if almost all the line it out so I don't use a flat roller. I would highly recommend a hinged or self launching bow sprit as a must so you don't have to go push it off each time.

Do you or any have a recommendation on a good hinged or self launching bow sprit?
OP 220 (~24 ft), drum anchor.
 

akgriz

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Which ever configuration you choose, make absolutely sure that the center of the drum is 100% perpendicular to the last roller. Also I have seen a lot of these setups using samson braid after the chain. Double braided nylon is a much better choice. I have to anchor my big boat close to shore in my fisheries. Double braided nylon has a lot of stretch. If and when you come up hard on the rode, it gives. Zero stretch in samson. When you come up hard on it, something has to give. Parts on the boat or a dragging anchor.
I rig mine with 100' of 1/2" three-strand nylon to the anchor, and then splice in the synthetic (non-stretch) to run to the winch. Or as BD mentions, double braided nylon. This protects from hard pulls while giving extra capacity.

The Boat Shop in Fairbanks can get the EZ Anchor bow rollers, as I understand it.
 

Halibutgrove

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Do you or any have a recommendation on a good hinged or self launching bow sprit?
OP 220 (~24 ft), drum anchor

We at AK frontier fab make a HD self launching pullpit that can be bolted or welded on. The North River puts the same pullpit on everyboat we order up. The 5” flat rollers allow the rope to level wind better.
 
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