mntmaster said:Sorry if this has been asked or mentioned before but I did not see this specified in this thread. What Cartridge is the 366 Alaskan based off of and what type of balistics are you expecting? Thanks
One of the reasons I like the services of Pac-Nor is because they will install their barrels on my receiver, and they true and lapp. They also provide pre-fitted barrels, barrel blanks, etc. The guys who do the work are very experienced and helpful. They do some other metal work, but you will need to discuss specifics with them. Their barrels are offerd in a variety of contours.
Redding makes the dies. My dies are stamped 9.3/338, but I had Pac-Nor stamp the barrel 366 Alaskan. I didn't care what the dies had stamped on them so long as they worked. It took a while to get them, because they don't keep a supply on the shelf. I suppose Redding will stamp whatever you want on the dies. Ask them.
A little history: I think this got momentum from Craig Boddington, who worked with a gunsmith in Texas named Sisk, who in turn worked with Dave Kiff of Pacific Tools and Guages in Oregon, who collaberated with Redding to make sure the specs were compatible. I think Craig intended to write an article about it, but I don't know if he did. Anyway, I benefitted from all that, because I didn't have to worry about whether the dies and chamber reamer were compatible. Nor did I have to pay for custom tools at Redding. Apparantly Craig already did that. This all may go back further, but I don't know about that, and I'm not absolutely sure about what I said above. It's just an assembly of the bits and pieces of info I heard. Now, it seems odd that this wildcat hasn't been more common. I have heard of others who have thought of it, but I haven't heard of anyone other than Boddington who actually did it. I'm not even sure Boddington did it, but that is what i was told by reliable sources such as Dave.
I decided to give my rifle the name of 366 Alaskan, mostly because it seemed approriate.
Keep us informed, thanks.
lester said:I guess once I cut the chamber and headspace the rifle, I will tie it to a tire and trigger it with a string. Start with a Max .300 win load for .220 grainer using a .338 225 grain bullet. From there, I guess its load table extrapolation and looking for pressure signs. Use that tire with all new loads.
So, what are you guys doing to get load data for your wildcats?
How will you form your cases? Just run them through your resizing die to neck up and then fireform? Or is fireforming even necessary?
lester said:I am wondering how you will go about developing loads for your .366 Alaskan? I would sure love to get a better grip on load workups for wildcat cartridges. So, what are you guys doing to get load data for your wildcats?
Answer: Some interpolation may be necessary, but very little. We have a variety of good data for the 358 Norma, and the 375 Taylor wildcat. I plan to start with conservative and forgiving powder such as H4895. It is my opinion that 358 Norma loads will be good starting loads. Also there are some load data software programs. I have a friend who has one, which I plan to use for confirmation before I pull the trigger. Also, based on studying the data available, it looks like it would be difficult to get too much IMR or Hodgen 4350 powder in the case and still seat the bullet.
Do you start with the .338 Win Mag loads and try to keep bullet weight the same, or what?
Answer: No, 338 loads may be one reference, but as said above, the 358 Norma and 375 Taylor loads will be the main reference.
Seems like the same bullet weight in a larger caliber will yield lower pressure due to smaller bearing area.
Answer: Yes this is probably true, and most likely I’ll start with 250 gr 9.3mm bullets and compare loads for the 358 in 250 gr, and 375 in 260 gr.
How will you form your cases? Just run them through your resizing die to neck up and then fireform? Or is fireforming even necessary? Is your cartridge a straight neck up job with no other different dimensions from the .338wm case?
Answer: The 366 Alaskan is just necked up with no other change from the 338 brass. No fire forming necessary.
lester said:I haven't heard about the .375 Ruger.
If that .375Rug is a non-belted .375 H&H, it should enable one more ctg in most magazines, I guess. That alone would be popular. Might also motivate some belt removal tool accessory for neck turning tools. I remember reading some article years ago about a guy to did a wildcat using magnum brass, but he turned the belts off his brass using a lathe. Guess somethings aren't so new under the sun.