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Rem Titanium bedding

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  • Rem Titanium bedding

    I own a Rem 700T in .30-'06. I have always been under the impression that a "free-floating" barrel was the best thing to have, and have used the dollar bill test on all my rifles. Therefore, I took a dremmel (sp?) tool and ground down the two ridges at the end of the forearm, of my 700T, that the barrel rested on. Yesterday, I read in a magazine that often times upward pressure on a barrel near the fore end actually can increase accuracy substantially. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Does it just take trial and error to determine which is best?

  • #2
    barrel float

    Well, maybe free floating helps and maybe not. Not a cute answer but the truth. Generally, very slight up pressure on very thin barrels can help. That is why you see many manufacturers put that ridge at the end of the forend. The only way to tell for sure is by trial and error. And some wood stocks have it. That's why changes in humidity can have such a large effect on group location and accuracy with wood stocks. Even with synthetics, differences in temp can affect pressure on the barrel with a forend set up that way as can the way the forend rests or is held. I guess the biggest problem I've seen with the forend pressure thing is- how can it be kept consistent in all temps and humidities over time?? I don't have any user/hunting type sporters with thin barrels so all mine are free floated. If you do free float a factory gun, check the amount of flex in the forend when rested or held at different places on the forend. Sometimes the barrel will be free floated when the forend is rested near the chamber but will make barrel contact if rested near the front end- that will really affect accuracy and consistency of POI.


    • #3
      To Bed or not to Bed...


      I think there are many myths that abound about barrel bedding and floating.

      There are no definite answers but some general rules and then some exceptions.
      In General.
      Very light weight barrels almost never shoot their best when fully floated.
      Very heavy barrels barrels don't seem to care, floated, bedded or just touching. All the rest in between these two extremes respond differently.
      Most heavy calibers are bedded full length for strength and accuracy.
      Never float a barrel without bedding the action to prevent any shift when fired.
      Fluted barrels must float to deliver good performance. (fluted barrels have no place on a hunting rifle)

      I have found that barrels of today are much lighter weight and work better if bedded or a least pressure pointed. If a barrel is heavy as were most older Sako barrels, floating is the way to go. These are typically .600" at the muzzle, some a bit larger. These are very rigid barrels.

      One of the reasons for floating a barrel is to get it away from the influence of the forend should it be pressed against the barrel or, if wood, swell or warp against the barrel and push a shot. Most forends today are slim and/or flexible plastic and can easily be pushed against a stock. If there is a bipod atached to a forend sling stud, this can cause mahem when shooting if it pushes the forend to the stock. What I have found with these stocks is to bed the action and about 1" of barrel then rout out material in the forend and lay bedding into the forend, but then tape the barrel so when set it doesn't contact the barrel (passes the dollar bill test) and the forend is now rigid and can't be pushed to the barrel such as with a bipod. A bipod should not be used on any forend stud without the forend rigid enough to hold it off the barrel.

      Generally speaking if a floated barrel contacts a stock, the shot is wide. When pressure pointing a stock which puts upward tension on the barrel with the "spring" in a stock, wood or synthetic, this must be consistant. It is almost impossible to get a walnut stock to put even, consistant pressure on a stock. For this reason wood and pressure points don't mix well. There are exceptions, such as very dry climates but still not the best. sometimes we have to float a barrel even if less accurate, to avoid the occasional oops shot due to inconsistant forend pressure due to the nature of the wood.

      Synthetic is another problem. The flexibel flyer stocks (injection molded) are something I don't care to tangle with. They seem to shoot based on how tight you hold them. They are so torquey in heavy calibers that the best way to fix most of them is to bed them full length and then float the barrel with the forend bedded, or make it solid, full contact. The advantage of this is rigidity. There are many good fiberglass stocks available that make a good shooting platform. They are $400-600 and worth every penny of it. A good piece of walnut can be made to fit and work great but it's characteristics change with climate, age and use (the steel hammers the wood soft).

      To test if a barrel will shoot better when pressure pointed, cut up shims from a plastic jug and stack them under the forend and test fire. Vary the number of shims and check results. If a barrel is floated, shims can be added under the barrel to test. If the forend has contact, the shims can be put under the action then cinched down with the barrel now off the forend, test fire the "floated" barrel. Rifles that I will used in a rugged environment (abused) I want a shorter more rigid barrel and a tough stock bedded solid to the action and the barrel either fully bedded or floated with the forend poured full of bedding compound to make it very rigid. I'll gladly take the extra few ounces the bedding brings for that more solid and consistant platform.

      If I remember correctly the M700 T has a better quality and more rigid stock but a light barrel contour. I would try the shim test but I would prefer fully bedding this action and barrel. Even if the accuracy is slightly better when floated, I would rathe have consistent POI within 1 MOA accuracy than the 1/4" gun with potential to vary it's shots during use. Also fully bedded barrels keep the shots together better during heat up from sustained fire when under attack by that herd of deer or caribou. I think way to much emphasis is put on floating the barrels of hunting rifles. But, accuracy as well is over done, just about any old rifle will out shoot my ability in the field. Eight inch groups at 300 yards is good enough.
      Last edited by Murphy; 10-24-2006, 14:04.
      Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?


      • #4

        As soon as my 700T gets out of the gunsmith shop (getting it crowned, since I used it as a crutch on rocks) more experimentation will occur on the range. WW Guns suggested that I replace the factory stock with a more rigid composite and then bed the stock. This may occur in the future, but not until I try the shims and no shims test. When I get results from my test I will post the findings. Thanks Again.


        • #5
          I have a Remington 700 Titanium Mountain rifle in 30-06. It shot horrible groups in the factory condition.
          I tried all sorts of loads and the best it would do was a 3 inch group.
          Eventually I took out the two pressure points and free floated the whole barrel. (it was uneven in the barrel channel anyway...)

          Now it will shoot a 3/4 inch group with 165 grain federals loaded with Noslers. The first two will touch and the third shot is always high and to the right. Unless I let it cool for 30 mintutes between shots. Then they will all touch.

          The down side is that the stock and barrel are both pretty flexible.

          I have another rifle with the entire fore-stock section of the barrel glass bedded. It will shot rings around all my other rifles. So it is a case by case thing.
          It would interesting to bed a 700 Ti all the way to see what happens. I can't afford that experiment right now.

          I have photos of my groups. I just don't know how to post them..
          Float-CFI, Photo Guide, Fishing Guide, Remote Kayaking
          Guest Cabin, Flight Reviews, Aerial Tours


          • #6

            Anyone have any experience or knowledge about Lone Wolf Stocks? Their Summit XL model weighs in at 12 oz. Am thinking about replacing my Bell and Carlson stock since I took a tumble with me down a mountain and got really beat up. According to the B and C website, their stock weighs in at 2-2.25 lbs. I can save about 20 ozs or so if I switch. Any thoughts?


            • #7
              I have bedded my on the action only and free floated the barrrel: 4/5 inch accuracy...
              what was really a bad problem on this gun: it MUST be cleaned after 20-30 shots 2-3 times with Foorest Foam or something else: If not, the accuracy run up to 3-4 inches (shot warm to hot)

              Bed it, free float the barrel and CLEAN it after each 20-30 shots and You will get impressed...



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