Budget 35 Whelen part 2

[Cabochris]

I wanted a 35 Whelen to shoot and try for general big game hunting and decided to have a 30-06 bored-out. I selected a blue Tikka T3 30-06 and chose JES in Oregon for the job. Jessie recommended a 3 grove with 1-14 twist because I mainly want to shoot 225 grain bullets, but also 200 and 250 grain. I sent the Tikka on 9-29-2014 and could not believe when the rifle was returned to me on 10-6-2014! At first I thought JES could not do the job for some reason? But when I opened the box, out fell a piece of paper with "she shoots well" written on it. Indeed the barrel was stamped 35 WLN! The job done and rifle returned so quickly! I highly recommend JES!

I also chose to install some Tikka aftermarket parts including Torx style action screws, precision steel recoil lug and aluminum bolt shroud by Mountain Tactical. To curb recoil I installed a new style Limbsaver Airtech pad, which is supposed to reduce felt recoil up to 70%.

This is the first time I've had a rifle re-bored and I've learned some things. One concern I had was that the boring process would lighten an already light rifle too much. The stock Tikka 30-06 weighed 6lb 5.4 ounces on my electronic scale. The returned and bored to 35 Whelen Tikka with new recoil pad and other aftermarket parts weighed 6lb 3.2 ounces. The rifle only shed about 2 ounces! While the aftermarket parts may have added an ounce or so, the re-boring process lightened the rifle only 2 to 3 ounces. This is a good thing and much less than I expected.

I also was concerned that with the re-bore the barrel might become too thin. Well that didn't happen as there seems to be plenty of barrel meat left! The rifle still feels balanced and points well.

Next I'll torque the action screws, clean out/tap and install the 1 piece DNZ low scope mount. I'm still debating which scope to mount, but am leaning towards a silver Leupold 2.5X8 I just happen to have. I also have a Burris FFII 3-9X40 and a Bushnell Elite 3-9X40 with RainGuard.

At this point I'm into this rifle around $700. While not cheap I'm still within my budget of $1,000. I almost bought a used Remington 700 Classic in 35 Whelen for $800, but would have been inclined to also change out the trigger for a safer aftermarket one, replace the firing pin/spring for a speedlock and glass bed the action... which would have cost more.

[AKMtnRunner]

Congrats Cabo! Let us know how it shoots.

[limon32]

Looks awesome, post some targets!


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[tvfinak]

Three grooves is a bit odd- the only other gun I know that used 3 grooves was the old trapdoor Springfield's.

In any event = thanks for sharing the info - I was still under the impression that getting a rebore took forever.

[back country]

Jessie's favorite bore size is .35 and he does a lot of them - If he suggested the 3 groove it's because he has had good results and feedback on it - another big plus in doing it this way is that you now have CUT rifling which causes less stress than button rifling - JES is top notch

[back country]

BTW - torque specs for the Tikka is 65 in lb front screw and 50 in lb for rear

[323]

Those DNZ mounts are horrendous I find some talley lightweights for it

[back country]

Mountain Tactical makes the Performance Picatinney base for Tikka T3's that is bullet proof too

[Cabochris]

Those DNZ mounts are horrendous I find some talley lightweights for it

Do you mean form or function. I've switched all my hunting rifles to DNZ. They are light. Being 1 piece they are strong and the rings are perfectly aligned, which causes zero stress on the scope. If one follows instruction the DNZ rings will not scratch, mar or crush the scope tube like many other brands do- like the Talley lightweights I used on my first generation 700 Titanium did- that's why I no longer use them. If your action is off one has to Lapp them.

I have found on the Tikka Lite, the DNZ low will get a 40mm pretty darn low over the barrel. I thought DNZ mounts would contribute to accuracy on a hunting rifle- no scope stress, low mounting and exact even torque? I also like it when a manufacturer prints right on the package the screw torque recommendations as DNZ does. I'll agree the rings look bulky if that's what you mean.

[Cabochris]

BTW - torque specs for the Tikka is 65 in lb front screw and 50 in lb for rear

Thanks for that info and I'll make note of it. Now I have 3 supposed "Official" Tikka Torque Specs. The other 2 are in the 50 to 55 range and equal for both front and rear screws. I'll give yours a try too. I recently read an article where action screw torqueing did cause accuracy changes on a hunting rifle! I believe it was a Savage. So it will be fun to experiment. Funny, when the T3 first came out I contacted Beretta/Tikka and asked for the action screw torque specifications... their reply in writing was there weren't any! I wished I had saved that email.

[Cabochris]

I just mounted/chose the Leupold 2.5-8 X36 on the Tikka 35 Whelen and letting it stew a few days before I torque the rings. That set-up is light but I do prefer a 40mm scope. The small silver Leupold is growing on me on this blue rifle, even though I prefer black scopes. It does kind of go with the silver color bolt handle, bolt and aftermarket stainless torx action screw heads. I got this scope with a stainless rifle and removed it because I just do not like silver on stainless- makes the gun too bright for my likes. Next- to get some ammo.

[[email protected]]

Hey Cabichris, I'm curious how you are liking the Tikka 35 Whelen combo? I have a M77 chambered in the Whelen and seeing your thread tempts me to go that route for a second rifle. I'm a fan of the cartridge.