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Ruger M77 tang style safety questions

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  • Ruger M77 tang style safety questions

    Just traded a buddy a savage axis 30-06 for his 30-06 m77. I feel like I got the better deal, but he wanted the trade, so I did it. I cleaned it (it was disgusting), and put itall back together. Grouping was about 1 1/2". I noticed it has never been glass bedded, and does not have a free floating barrel. I was thinking of ordering a nice bush's stock, after it looks like he used the current stock as a hammer quite a few times. I have read mixed reviews on free floating or bedding the barrel of the old m77s and curious on your guys thoughts. It seems like everyone recommends glass bedding, which I will do, but more curious on the free floating, and how to adjust the trigger. It seems that all over the internet it says its adjustable trigger but no place tells you how. Thanks!
    I'm prolly out using my bow or 30-30

  • #2
    I'd kinda take it in "stages" to get acquainted with the gun, rather than do all the stock mods at once. If you're going to restock, then why bother with any stock mods?

    First off, if you look at the barrel channel, most Rugers have a little "bridge" of wood right at the tip of the forend. About an inch long. I'd remove that first, then see how it shoots. With that done, I'd wrap a cigarette paper or some other light paper under the barrel just in front of the forend and try sliding it back toward the action, just to see where it's touching, if at all. Many are "free floated" from behind the bridge all way back to around the chamber. Some will have warped a little and touch somewhere along the way. That's for sure something to get rid of, whether or not you bother with the contact right about the chamber.

    Next I'd look real hard at that the inletting for that angled front action bolt. If wood touches that bolt anywhere, it raises cob with accuracy. Relieve the hole if there's contact. A rat tailed file is your friend.

    Only after all that would I think about bedding. I don't bed the whole Ruger action, rather I just do the area right behind the recoil lug, a "stripe" about half an inch wide just in front of the action, and a small area back under the tang. All you need really to stabilize everything in the wood stock.

    Once you get through monkeying with the stock, go back and seal all exposed wood inside the barrel channel and action inletting. TruOil is your friend here. If you leave it bare, it will soak up humidity from the air and warpage will almost always happen. Seal it good, and never worry again.
    "Lay in the weeds and wait, and when you get your chance to say something, say something good."
    Merle Haggard

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    • #3
      I have the same gun in .300 win. I had the barrel free floated, and the action bedded. I also had it Mag-Na-Ported and recrowned the barrel. This was all done over 20 years ago and at the time I was doing a lot of reloading and working up loads for it. I'd like to say it improved the accuracy with factory loads, but then I went way beyond that with hand loads. Mine still has the wood stock, but it hasn't been used much up here. As was mentioned above not the whole action was bedded.
      In Nature's Image Taxidermy and Game Calls
      Palmer

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TexasBoy View Post
        It seems that all over the internet it says its adjustable trigger but no place tells you how. Thanks!
        http://www.shootersforum.com/gunsmit...djustment.html
        There is a link in there to diagrams for your gunsmith to perform the reshaping of the sear. Don't do that.

        http://www.ruger.com/pdf/m77.pdf Handy info, but not the process. I guess I need to pull out the old rifle and see what it has marked on the bolt.

        http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472472
        Good info in this thread. The basic issues as discussed is the need for smoother surfaces, a lighter sear spring to lower the pull weight, and then adjust the trigger creep.

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        • #5
          I meant boyds stock in the OP. Also, I read a lot on how everyone swears by bedding and recommend on every gun, do you not?
          I'm prolly out using my bow or 30-30

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          • #6
            I've had a slough of M77 tang safety rifles and have had only one with any significant problems. I've probably glass bedded several dozen of them and have never seen it negatively affect accuracy. The suggested method by BrownBear will work, but I normally bed the entire length of the action and the first inch or so of the barrel shank. As for the speed bump in the barrel, I remove it and float the barrel to start with. I can remember only one time that pressure bedding improved accuracy and that's on my first year production 6mm Remington. Its barrel is glass bedded for its full length and that notably improved upon its finicky nature. Put simply, properly bedding a rifle never hurts.
            Foolishness is a moral category, not an intellectual one.

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            • #7
              If you're getting 1 1/2" groups from it now, I'd be going slow. Do you reload? Probably be able to work some magic on the group size if you do. I had one of these rifles in 280 Rem a few years back. May have been the most accurate rifle I ever owned - right out of the box - no mods. My basic load in it was 140 grain Ballistic Tips (for whitetails) - consistantly sub 3/4" groups. Going to 160 grain partitions opened groups some (right around 1") but the amazing thing was that the scope only need to be adjusted 1-2" to re-zero. The same thing happened with everything I ran down the barrel. I even loaded 115 grain bullets to about 1600-1700 fps (for the kids to shot) and didn't have to re-zero. Just fantastic
              I'd try some different loads before I started working on ANYTHING, to see what it might do.
              One of my kids had the same rifle in 7X57. We got the gun used and it was glass bedded. It shot ok, but nothing like my 280. Just saying that glass isn't always the answer.

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              • #8
                No I do not reload. I have really wanted to get into it, just don't have the extra funds to start a new hobby. What do you mean the speed bump in the barrel. I did notice there is a little bump in the barrel right past for foregrip, only about the length of a dime. Sometimes its really hard to see, so it is not that noticeable. Perhaps I need to rebarrel?
                I'm prolly out using my bow or 30-30

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TexasBoy View Post
                  No I do not reload. I have really wanted to get into it, just don't have the extra funds to start a new hobby. What do you mean the speed bump in the barrel. I did notice there is a little bump in the barrel right past for foregrip, only about the length of a dime. Sometimes its really hard to see, so it is not that noticeable. Perhaps I need to rebarrel?
                  By speed bump I meant the bump at the edge of the forearm that puts upward pressure on the barrel. In dozens of M77 rifles, I've only seen one case where upward pressure was desirable and even with that some type of inert bedding material is preferable to wood that will inevitably move. Rifles that are properly glass bedded will shoot as well as they can. There is no possibility of harming the rifle's accuracy if it is done properly. If it is done improperly, of course it can screw up the accuracy, but leaving plain wood insures that eventually the bedding will shift and then accuracy will be detrimentally affected. Using some type of high-quality epoxy based bedding is the quickest way to make certain that your rifle's basic platform is solid. There is NO DOWNSIDE to having any rifle bedded properly, irrespective how well it shoots right now.
                  Foolishness is a moral category, not an intellectual one.

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                  • #10
                    I fit my buddy's to a new Boyd's laminate stock. It takes longer to sand, but it's easy to completely free float the barrel and I was really satisfied with the performance of it, at the range and in the field, and I'm an amateur as far as gun work goes. It's also hard to compete with Boyd's prices. Also the aesthetics. Here's what he got.




                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                    Alaskan expat, civil engineer, FAA consultant.

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                    • #11
                      Longer to sand? I assumed it was a drop-in stock seeing that it already comes glossed.
                      I'm prolly out using my bow or 30-30

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                      • #12
                        M77 tang safety are some of the most accurate rifles I own. My first deer rifle was a tang safety Ruger I've grown affectionate to them. If properly bedded they'll shoot bug hole groups. My 25-06 is the most accurate one I own its almost scary good. I skim bed the rear of the action and use timney or rifle basix triggers I was a die hard timney fan until I tried the other brand. Properly polished you can have good trigger out of the stock one but save yourself the time and spend $50 for a rifle basix polish it a bit and you are in there like swim wear. The link is for a company o it of New Zealand they love the older Ruger rifles there and know what they're talking about.
                        http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Know...+Compound.html

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TexasBoy View Post
                          Longer to sand? I assumed it was a drop-in stock seeing that it already comes glossed.
                          It is drop in, but not perfect. Now my buddy's was a 338, so maybe the non magnum profile barrel would fit in there easier or maybe right out of the box. I just went ahead and sanded the whole barrel channel until it was free floating. It was just a little more work to sand because it was laminate wood.
                          Alaskan expat, civil engineer, FAA consultant.

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                          • #14
                            Get yourself one of these bad boys for opening barrel channels. Best money you'll ever spend for stock work. If you wanna really spice up your stock working projects, these wonders aren't a bad addition, either.
                            "Lay in the weeds and wait, and when you get your chance to say something, say something good."
                            Merle Haggard

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                            • #15
                              The first rifle I ever bought was a tang safety M77 in 30-06. It is an incredibly accurate gun. I put a Timney trigger in and bedded the action (factory stock). I had free floated it, but the gunsmith who bedded it added the pressure pad (speed bump) back on the stock's fore end tip. It shoots so well, I haven't messed with it since. I haven't shot factory ammo in many years, but it used to shoot 1 inch groups with Remington core lokt all day. With hand loads, it will shoot boring 3/4 inch groups every time. Congratulations on a great deal.

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