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PTR91 F, an AMERICAN G3 clone, anyone know any 308 winchester loads 4 it?

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  • PTR91 F, an AMERICAN G3 clone, anyone know any 308 winchester loads 4 it?

    i own a ptr91 F. and i am asking if you guys canhelp me out with a load for it. i doubt id get any replys. but am just asking.

  • #2
    yeah thought so. oh well, we all can't be pro's


    • #3
      I load in .308 for an M1A. Not the same rifle, but the same cartridge.

      Most folks tend not to reload for the G3 clones, as they have the fluted chambers, which tends to shorten brass life considerably.

      Depending on what you want to do with the rifle (target shooting, hunting, long range, etc) I can suggest a few different loads. Do you have any components already (primers, powders, bullets) from which to start, or are you just getting started?

      A little more information, and some recommendations will be forthcoming.


      • #4
        no components yet, all i have is a few of everything right now, yet this season im planing on loading a nosler accubond 180 from new remington brass, with winchester large rifle primers. i have no books on the deal. yet since i have a target rifle, its what i want to shoot for. but true i know about the fluted chamber faults, yet id like to check and see if i am able to come up with a good load for it.


        • #5
          My first bit of advice is to find someone local to you that is already set up for reloading. You might ask the gun shops near you (especially if they sell reloading components) if there is someone who would take you under their wing to help you get started. This will get you going faster than anything we could recommend online...

          Now, to the question at hand!

          Once you've picked the bullet, you can look to the manufacturer for what powders and primers they suggest. For instance, using your example, Nosler recommends the following powders: (source: Nosler .308 WIN data)
          IMR 3031
          IMR 4895
          Vhitavouri N140
          Hogden H380

          Once you've selected a powder (I would use IMR 4895, personally) then you begin the task of finding which powder charge best suits YOUR rifle. There is no 'one-size-fits-all' recipe, unfortunately. By reloading, you will be able to tailor the load to YOUR rifle, ensuring maximum accuracy from the components you've selected. Finding a 'pet load' (a load suited to your rifle) may take a while, spanning many range trips, but I, and many other reloaders, find it to be a very satisfying journey.

          Always start low, and work your way up. NEVER exceed the published 'maximum' load data- it's labeled maximum for a reason. (also, very rarely do you find extreme accuracy at the upper ranges of a given powder charge)

          Before you start buying reloading equipment, or any components, I suggest that you do as much reading on the subject as you can. Reloading isn't for everyone, and is a task especially ill-suited for those who lack patience, or attention to detail. (not insinuating anything, just saying)

          Start off with this book: ABC's Of Reloading
          Once you understand what is involved, and how the process works, then you can decide what type of press best suits your needs. I would suggest the use of a single-stage press, or perhaps a Turret-style press, but that is a question that can only be answered by your needs, and your budget.

          Once you get a press, and are ready to start buying components, you need to get some 'cook books'. These contain the recipes that you are asking for, and come in many flavors and varieties. All the major bullet manufacturers produce their own manuals, which cover hundreds of different calibers, and many different bullet types. There are also companies such as Lyman, and Lee, which produce their own 'generic' manuals, which cover most of the 'general purpose' cartridge/bullet combinations out there.

          Don't get discouraged. There *is* a lot of reading to be done, but once you get a feel for the process, it actually can move quite quickly. Feel free to ask any specific questions you may have, and I, or one of the other reloaders on here will attempt to answer your questions to the best of our ability.


          • #6
            I have an HK91 and I'm not sure if the clone does the same thing but a 'feature' of the ejection system is to throw the brass upwards of 30 feet away from the shooter, to help obscure shooters location. In the process of doing this the brass very often strikes the ejection port and dents the side in. I have no idea if the clone does away with this with a modified port or if OP has an ejection port buffer installed that prevents the dings. I also don't reload so I haven't a clue if the ding is repairable or not. But on this subject I think it should be pointed out to those that have more experience. in reloading but less experience in how the weapon behaves.


            • #7

              You bring up an excellent point! This 'feature' of the H&K rifle platforms (even the .223 versions do this) can be ameliorated by the installation of a "port buffer" (example can be found here: H&K Port Buffer)

              Installing a 'port buffer' will accomplish two things, that I find HIGHLY useful on the rifle platform-
              It drops the brass a mere two feet away.
              It eliminates the massive dent in the side of the case.


              • #8
                @ Project, thank you for the advice.


                • #9
                  yeah the PTR91, does everything a HK91 does. only difference is that it has a 18 inch match grade bull barrel produced by TC.


                  • #10
                    I had one of the PTR 91's, did the buffer, did the $150.00 scope mount, turned it into an eleven pound rifle that didn't shoot as well as the DPMS AR10 that I had, even with all it's magazine problems and wouldn't even come close to shooting as well as my M1A's!
                    In any event, pick a good bullet, at least a 150, and load it with a medium burning rate powder, and run your brass, whatever the source, through a small base die before loading it. 4895 works well, and loaded it for years for my BLR and bolt guns, as well as a couple of M1A's, an M14, and the mentioned AR10. Couple years ago, though, I was turned onto Varget for the round, and haven't looked back. It isn't as temperature sensitive as other powders, doesn't give flyers when the chamber gets hot in rapid fire strings, and goes bang consistently in the cold. Winchester 748 works really well, and from what I gather, is the powder developed for the round back in the early 1950's for the M14, just keep the loads away from the top end, and keep them fairly cool.
                    If you're just looking for something to go bang, I'd have to say just catch the Remington, Winchester, and Federal factory loads when they come on sale later in the summer and fall. 7.62/308 is a LOT more expensive to feed than a 5.56. In fact, thinking about it, and looking back at the dismal case loss when shooting my rifle, you might as well get the berdan primed stuff that's the least expensive, and leave it lay and forget about it! I hear that the German stuff coming in recently isn't terrible, and neither is the Radway Green. Pay particular attention to cleaning the rifle really well if using any of the foreign surplus stuff, because you're likely going to be dealing with corrosive primers. IF you can get your hands on it, the late manufactured M118 Lake City production with 173 gr. bullets has shot extremely well in ALL of my .308's, just very, very pricey, and tough to find. The PRVI Partisan stuff shoots well, also, but not necessarily inexpensive.
                    Even with all the mods I could come up with, my rifle mangled brass beyond use, at least the stuff I could find!
                    Hope it works out for you!


                    • #11
                      yeah thought so. oh well, we all can't be pro's

                      Interesting comment.
                      I am not a pro but my experience is:
                      Shot the HK91 a lot, couple thousand rounds, and reloaded. Buffer needed, if you don't want the dents and helps in brass recovery.
                      Tumble clean the cases that you can find. Chamber fluted impressions on the case did not affect reloading in my rifle.

                      Any of the M1A loads shot well, see the Hornady or Sierra reloading guide. Load to indicated COAL. Buy the reloading manual.

                      IMR 4895 and SMK 175 worked fine. Standard primers any brand. LC brass.
                      Your Noslers will work fine.

                      Rifle shot and cylced with anything that it would chamber.
                      Trigger did not compare to my SACK match M14, the gun was a PIA to shoot slow fire in a match, and windage, needed for mid to long range target shooting, was not available. I shot rifle to 600 yds prone.

                      Hope that helps. Enjoy the rifle!


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