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Glass Bed Questions

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  • mauserboy
    replied
    free floating barrel

    I learned several tricks from an excellent Alaska gunsmith, Red Morton, about bedding and barrel floating. After opening the barrel channel with a channel "scraper" You tape the barrel with one or two layers of electrical tape except for a one inch wide strip about 2 inches back from the end of the forearm, applying release to the tape and the untaped portion. After glassing the front action area of the stock and the barrel channel and putting the stock and barreled action together, tightening the action screws to the torque specs, put the gun into some sort of "jig" like a cleaning vise and hang a 2 pound weight from the front sling swivel overnight or until the glass is hardened. That way, you have a free-floating barrel except for the small band near the forend and a constant 2 pounds of pressure on the barrel. The strip of glass near the forend also helps keep the barrel centered in the channel. I've done numerous stocks this way and unless the gun itself was flawed, they always shot consistently.

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  • mauserboy
    replied
    Use the Acraglas gel

    it doesn't run much.

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  • bandhmo
    replied
    Ok, so the Acraglas comes in a kit with mixer sticks, dye and release agent. I saw on a Youtube a guy that used Devcon with white spray on lithium grease as release agent.
    If I am thinking of the same video you saw it was an 03 Springfield, and he left the trigger on which I am sure locked the action in place. If so I would not fallow that video. Many of the things done in it run counter to what I have read.

    The acra glass comes with good instructions which you can also down load from brownells web site. I have always bought acra glass locally yes it was a dollar or two more but after shipping it was cheaper. In the future I would like to try Devcon instead of acra glass the glass is so runny that you need to close off the entire bottom of hte stock or it will run out before it cures.

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  • Vek
    replied
    Bedding: Marine Tex Gray

    Release agent: Johnson's paste wax, or RCBS case lube spray.

    If you are careful with your quantities, the need for massive amounts of modeling clay and masking is overstated.

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  • Jmurman
    replied
    Originally posted by Nitroman View Post
    Acraglas gel with the powdered bronze mixed in for strength. Once you are done and have dyed the epoxy correctly, it almost (not quite, but), disappears against the wood. Whether the powdered metal is your choice or not, bronze easily dyes brown, stainless steel is challenging to dye as it wants to turn the epoxy a dark grey. Oh, and you only need about 50% of the total mix to be metal: 2 tablespoons each of epoxy and hardener, 1 tablespoon of metal.

    I use yellow modeling clay to cover the odd-shaped parts and carnauba wax for release agent. I heat the metal and use the wax sparingly. Lots of other products work well as a release agent, you don't need to get real fancy. Though another chemist told me he used a nitrocellulose solution (it would be very thin), for good contact. Afterwords he just wiped the metal down with acetone. That's about as fancy as I've heard.

    Follow the instructions that come with the kit and you cannot go wrong.

    I see that although Brownells has comments about the bronze atomized powder, they don't list it as something you can buy. They only have Aluminum, steel and stainless steel.

    If those are my only choices, I'll probably go with the aluminum.

    Leave a comment:


  • mauserboy
    replied
    What's in the box

    I've always used the mold release that is in the kit, applying with a q-tip. Never had a problem.

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  • Nitroman
    replied
    Acraglas gel with the powdered bronze mixed in for strength. Once you are done and have dyed the epoxy correctly, it almost (not quite, but), disappears against the wood. Whether the powdered metal is your choice or not, bronze easily dyes brown, stainless steel is challenging to dye as it wants to turn the epoxy a dark grey. Oh, and you only need about 50% of the total mix to be metal: 2 tablespoons each of epoxy and hardener, 1 tablespoon of metal.

    I use yellow modeling clay to cover the odd-shaped parts and carnauba wax for release agent. I heat the metal and use the wax sparingly. Lots of other products work well as a release agent, you don't need to get real fancy. Though another chemist told me he used a nitrocellulose solution (it would be very thin), for good contact. Afterwords he just wiped the metal down with acetone. That's about as fancy as I've heard.

    Follow the instructions that come with the kit and you cannot go wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeStaten
    replied
    I used the Devcon Plastic Steel Putty on my 700 ADL and it worked very well. I used regular kiwi shoe polish as release agent and had no issues at all. Make sure you put the release agent inside where the lugs are too(I used an old toothbrush to get it in there). I was surprised how much putty oozed into there. Probably not a bad idea to plug the barrel with some clay. Mask the whole, gun and have plenty of q-tips ready, that stuff can be messy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jmurman
    started a topic Glass Bed Questions

    Glass Bed Questions

    I have a credit from Brownells and want to use this to glass bed my 700 BDL in .06.

    In the Brownells catalog there is Acraglas...Acraglas Gel, Acraglas Steel and Devcon steel.

    Ok, so the Acraglas comes in a kit with mixer sticks, dye and release agent. I saw on a Youtube a guy that used Devcon with white spray on lithium grease as release agent.

    What have you used and what do you feel the pros and cons of the various products are.

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