Drifting A Sight

[Jmurman]

I am starting to do some work on my Grand Fathers Winchester .22. This gun has alot of sentimental value to me and it is at least 60-70 years old.

This single shot consistently shoots 3" left at 50 yds. So I'd like to drift the sights.

I haven't done this before, can someone walk me though the steps?

[gunblade]

You may only have to move the rear sight. Use a brass punch and move just a little at a time. If you're hitting left then you should move the rear sight to the right. This is assuming your old .22 has some sort of leaf and ladder adjustable arrangement that is dovetailed into the barrel as is common on old bolt and lever action .22s.

[Jmurman]

should I use any lubricant, such Kroils on it before I do this?

[gunblade]

Yes...good idea in case it's a little stubborn.

[windypoint]

I have a question for Gunblade as well. I just finished putting a new adjustable Novak sight on a S&W 4006. I had to really beat the heck out of the old sight and also when installing the new sight. I used all brass drifts, but I had to pound it hard enough to bend the smaller drifts. Is this normal? I did manage to get it on without damage, but man it was scary using that much force. What do you think?

[Murphy]

I have a question for Gunblade as well. I just finished putting a new adjustable Novak sight on a S&W 4006. I had to really beat the heck out of the old sight and also when installing the new sight. I used all brass drifts, but I had to pound it hard enough to bend the smaller drifts. Is this normal? I did manage to get it on without damage, but man it was scary using that much force. What do you think?

I little too hard, I'd say. If you take the new sight and place the base of it on some 400 grit crocus or sand paper and lap the bottom of the sight in a figure eight fashion this will reduce the base width slightly and may make it slide in easier. I believe that is the way new sights are supposed to be fitted.

[Murphy]

You may only have to move the rear sight. Use a brass punch and move just a little at a time. If you're hitting left then you should move the rear sight to the right. This is assuming your old .22 has some sort of leaf and ladder adjustable arrangement that is dovetailed into the barrel as is common on old bolt and lever action .22s.

Yes a few drops of Kroil and soak over night. Also with those long elevator sights you should remove the elevator and place a gun cleaning patch under it to keep from scratching the barrel. This will ease the friction at that point and allow it to move easier. Move the rear to the right and the front to the left just slightly and this will make it less obvious that the sight was moved. 3 inches at 50 yards isn't much to move.

[windypoint]

Thanks Murphy, I will try that next time. I'm lucky I didn't damage the gun. I should have asked before I started.

[Murphy]

Thanks Murphy, I will try that next time. I'm lucky I didn't damage the gun. I should have asked before I started.

You're welcome. I like the sight to fit tight and we don't know how tight it will be until it is started, then back it out and sand off some more. I just fitted a dovetailed front to my old Marlin and I needed to sand off a lot to get there. It was a new steel Marble sight. After I sanded off the blue on the sight bottom I cleaned and dabbed some cold blue on it even though it didn't show. I think this will keep the rust down. I oil it good after buffing the new blue.

[gunblade]

Regarding the Novak sights on your S&W...those have a little allen set screw in the top. Loosen that first then the sight should drift out without too much trouble. After you get it where you want it, tighten the set screw back down.