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  • First thread !?

    I wish I had a deep, provocative topic for the first thread in this forum. I am considering getting a marlin 1895 and doing my own action work, rather than buy parts. Anyone here do this? I guess if I screw it up I can get aftermarket stuff too. Kind of a screw up safety net.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Tenmm View Post
    I wish I had a deep, provocative topic for the first thread in this forum. I am considering getting a marlin 1895 and doing my own action work, rather than buy parts. Anyone here do this? I guess if I screw it up I can get aftermarket stuff too. Kind of a screw up safety net.

    i fitted a wild west guns trigger and ejector in my guide gun and they work great. to slick the action i removed the ejector and bolt, using jb paste on the bolt, it was worked through out the lever cycle. after "running" the lever for about 15min, the action was as smooth as an old model marlin.

    degrease (clean-up) is easy by again removing the bolt and dry wiping the action and bolt. finish up with a solvent, dry, then lube with your favorite product and reassemble.

    it also helps to shorten the loading gate screw slightly. this can be done with a flat file. remove a small amount at a time, reassemble often to check the results.




    these operations can be done by most anyone, and the improvement is considerable.

    happy trails.
    jh
    happy trails.
    jh

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    • #3
      Originally posted by pinehavensredrocket View Post
      it also helps to shorten the loading gate screw slightly. this can be done with a flat file. remove a small amount at a time, reassemble often to check the results.
      jh
      I have never heard of shortening this screw. What improvement is gained?

      Tenmm, from what I hear Brownells & Marlin will only sell a new trigger/sear to FFL holders, so if you mess up you are in a fix. Like you say though, the aftermarket "safety net" is always there.
      Like JH I intend to get the WW Guns trigger kit (everyone says it's a pretty easy drop in) & "Bear Proof Ejector". Not sure the ejector is really needed but it's cheap & as long as I have the gun opened up it's no extra work.
      By the way, I just picked up an 1895m (the guide gun in 450 Marlin) & am really looking forward to playing with it.
      Vance in AK.

      Matthew 6:33
      "But seek first the kingdom of God and His righteousness, and all these things shall be added to you."

      Comment


      • #4
        I've been lusting after the Trapper model guide gun, though I dont know if there is much advantage to the 16 1/4 barrel over the regular guide gun. It must be the sweet laminated furniture th turns me on.
        I am an FFL holder as well, so getting parts isnt too hard. I've built a couple 1911s and an AR-15, thought it might be fun to tinker with a lever gun for a while!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Vance in AK View Post
          I have never heard of shortening this screw. What improvement is gained?

          Tenmm, from what I hear Brownells & Marlin will only sell a new trigger/sear to FFL holders, so if you mess up you are in a fix. Like you say though, the aftermarket "safety net" is always there.
          Like JH I intend to get the WW Guns trigger kit (everyone says it's a pretty easy drop in) & "Bear Proof Ejector". Not sure the ejector is really needed but it's cheap & as long as I have the gun opened up it's no extra work.
          By the way, I just picked up an 1895m (the guide gun in 450 Marlin) & am really looking forward to playing with it.
          removing "some" length on the loading gate screw is part of a master tune on the old levers. shortening the length slightly improves the action. coupled with the above mentioned work, it's pretty slick.

          happy trails.
          jh
          happy trails.
          jh

          Comment


          • #6
            Working on the trigger and action of a '95 has always been a pleasure for me. Lightening and crisping up the trigger is pretty easy. I'm able to use the same jig I use for 1911s to modify the sear on the '95 - so I can get repeatable results.
            One of the action smoothing tricks I was shown was to modify the top of the hammer slightly so that it doesn't have as much 'over travel' when it is cocked by the bolt moving backwards. see: http://marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm for some guidance on that particular change.

            TTFN,

            Comment

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