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  • Indy Lite Track Changeout

    Has anybody changed out the OEM track off of a early to mid 90s Polaris 340 Lite to a track with a deeper, or talller lug? The best I can tell, the OEM track is about .75 to .8?? and I would like to get a bit more bite.
    I have a complete and running Lite w/ a 121" track that I like as it is light and agile. In the trees and brush I can still move it around pretty well as compared to my old 440 Sport GT with the long track. It is a beast when stuck and I am old and weak.
    I was thinking that the 121" Lite would do better in fresh snow with a 1 1/4" track if it will fit in the tunnel without dragging and catching. Have you made this change, and if so, were there any problems and did it work out?
    I also have a wrecked 340GT w/ either the 133" or 136" track. I thought about resurecting that machine as it is fairly complete. If you had a GT, would you put a 1 1/4" lug track under it?
    Last question, at least for now, where is the best place to buy tracks? Thinking about spending $650 on a mid 90's sled makes my belly hurt and my brain ache.

  • #2
    I am no track expert but I would expect that you could get a 121 track pretty easily off of Craigslist.

    Comment


    • #3
      First question. Does your sled have a chaincase or not? The early 90's short track Indy Lites did not have chain cases. Open the cowling and look on the right side of the bulkhead in front of the right foot well. The chaincase will be apparent if you have one. If you do not, the machine is direct drive. It drives the drive axel straight off the driven clutch. It utilizes small drivers that have a different pitch than the full sized Polaris sleds of that age. If yours does not have a chaincase than changing to a longer track is not worth the effort.

      After somewhere around '94 they introduced the Indy Lite GT which had a longer track and used a chaincase. I believe the short track models also got a chaincase at that point. The chaincase models use the same pitch tracks as all the other Polaris models in that age range and can be converted fairly cheaply.

      I rode with a guy (150# range) years ago that rode an Indy Lite GT that had been converted to a 1 1/4" track. It went pretty good and he covered a lot of terrain on that little sled. I believe you are right that the track is a 133 1/2". I'll have to check around and find out.

      I converted a 250 Indy Star (same track as an Indy Lite) to a chaincase several years ago. I used a suspension, track, chaincase and driven clutch from an wrecked Indy 500. It was a pretty cool conversion, but took most of a winter to get the clutching right and it never really did work as well as we wanted. I eventually stole the parts for another project.

      In the past I have bought tracks from www.tracksusa.com for a good price.
      Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Ak River Rat View Post
        Has anybody changed out the OEM track off of a early to mid 90s Polaris 340 Lite to a track with a deeper, or talller lug? The best I can tell, the OEM track is about .75 to .8?? and I would like to get a bit more bite.
        I have a complete and running Lite w/ a 121" track that I like as it is light and agile. In the trees and brush I can still move it around pretty well as compared to my old 440 Sport GT with the long track. It is a beast when stuck and I am old and weak.
        I was thinking that the 121" Lite would do better in fresh snow with a 1 1/4" track if it will fit in the tunnel without dragging and catching. Have you made this change, and if so, were there any problems and did it work out?
        I also have a wrecked 340GT w/ either the 133" or 136" track. I thought about resurecting that machine as it is fairly complete. If you had a GT, would you put a 1 1/4" lug track under it?
        Last question, at least for now, where is the best place to buy tracks? Thinking about spending $650 on a mid 90's sled makes my belly hurt and my brain ache.

        hey greg.. want me to look at it all for you? done a few hundred of them.
        "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

        meet on face book here

        Comment


        • #5
          me too

          Hey Vince, I am interested somewhat in the same thing. I have a late 90's Indy lite, I love the machine but would like just a little more performance. Maybe wider skis in front and have wondered about a differnt track for a bit better traction. How hard is it to change out (the track) and what might it cost? The bigger lugs sound great to me, but does the machine have enuf power to do it? The budget bug live here too! ;-)

          Thanks

          Comment


          • #6
            I have put two 1-1/4 track conversions on indy lite gt's. Yes they will fit and it makes a big difference.

            Comment


            • #7
              Kenairmk

              Did you notice any rpm drop, or performance difference other than in the powder? Did you change the gears? If so what gearing did you go to?
              Did you buy and OEM track or other, and if other, what was it and where did you pick it up?
              Thanks for the help.
              Vince, pending bird hunting this weekend (after all it is nice and the dogs need to have fun too) we might get together, talk AC stuff, and look at the Lites.
              Any other ideas from the viewing audience?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by saltwatertom View Post
                Hey Vince, I am interested somewhat in the same thing. I have a late 90's Indy lite, I love the machine but would like just a little more performance. Maybe wider skis in front and have wondered about a differnt track for a bit better traction. How hard is it to change out (the track) and what might it cost? The bigger lugs sound great to me, but does the machine have enuf power to do it? The budget bug live here too! ;-)

                Thanks
                well the long and short of a track change....



                two bolts in the rear for the adjusters... loosen all the way or remove...


                2 rear and 2 forward tunnel bolts.. these are the fun ones as they are threaded shaft that go through.. if seized at all they are BEARS to get out.. wrench on each side.. get BOTH side broke free before removeing...

                this drops out skid frame.. the springs in the rear.. take the tails off the blocks and all tension off them and the skid frame will collapse and hod the spring as you slide frame through the track...

                now track is hanging on the drive sproket...


                ALL SLEDS ARE SIMILAR... especially the older ones


                Left side as you sit on it...

                remove driven clutch

                remove speedo cable

                12mm nyloc nuts with carriage bolt in tunnel... x3 remove speedo housing and bearing behind it...

                right side chain case.

                remove cover inspect gasket
                loosen chain tension

                remove lower /upper gear cotters and nuts.. if equipped with reverse.. pay attention to the order of extra gears and bushings...


                lower gear off... 12mm x3 nyloc nuts removes plate that secures bearing...

                NOW>>>>

                POLARIS in those years was so much more fun then other brands as the bearing is sudo pressed into the case...

                so the shaft spline need some wiggle to get all the way out to the LEFT of the sled.. push the shaft through the speedo hole and allow case side to drop then remove the entire shabang....


                now

                go buy all new bearings.. dont care if they look good or not they are like 8 bucks and you have them out...

                the chain case side i made a small tool out of a DENT PULLER slide hammer.. take the furled threaded tip that holds the nail off and slide it from under machine through the chain case.. slide new bearing on.. add LARGE BFW... (big frigging washers) and align and from under sled tap tap tap tap the slide hammer and the new bearing slips into place...

                speedo side will assemble back on the shaft like you took it apart.. .easy..


                also.. light machines... that get larger lugs on them require gearing DOWN.. one set of gears// 20-49 if memory -serves me..it is a rather common set up.

                also while out.. replace the Chain... it take a long hard duty and Will break when you least expect it to..

                if you do any jumping at all... carry spare chains.

                assemble in revers order...

                you may want to take the easy way out and install the rear tunnel bolts first... that would be a HUGE mistake on your part as it will not go back together...

                front bolts... rear bolt.. NO spring tension at all.. get one side started then the other... use anti sease...on tunnel bolts..

                you may need to reinstall them ONE hole DOWN then they were in for clearance...

                check your front straps on the skid frame for wear.. when installed remember


                tight straps lift front of skid frame and make heavy ski pressure.. looser straps lower front of skid and remove ski pressure..






                rear alignment and tension bolts

                get them in and close... with rear of sled off ground.. put about 10lbs of pressure on center of track between rails should have about 1-1.5 inches daylight below the rails...

                align the track...


                start machine ... track in the air... reach up and romp the gas for about 3 seconds... let track.. COAST to a stop.. do NOT use brake or you ruin all you are trying to achieve...

                with track coast to stop MEASURE from edge of track to rail as far back as you can... BOTH side...


                if your measure for instance.. out side edge to rail on the right ..1.75
                and on the left... 1.25....

                the left is tighter then the right.. the track will run to the loose side.. .5-.75 of a turn on the right will bring them very close to even. several runs to get ti right back and forth and you will enjoy less dodging in the skis...



                that is about 3 hours when i did it all the time.. a first timer can expect about 5 hours of shop time but i highly recommend it.


                you Will learn more about your sled and more likely to self repair in the field when things happen..

                one time 17 sleds all donated a bolt or wheel or little minimal essential piece to 2 other sleds and all came home 55 miles. you can't do that if you have no clue what your perched on...

                the kids from Valdez that stared int he BRAPPP and sled necks.. grew up in my garage... after breaking daddy's sleds after school would show up wanting to have it fixed before dad needed it.. they learned where the tool box and parts were .. dads got a parts bill once a month..

                any way that is the most of it i pulled it all from memory.. been since 2003 i did one. so i may have missed a little bit here or there. but with a little Patience and perseverance.. you will learn a ton...
                "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

                meet on face book here

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Ak River Rat View Post
                  Did you notice any rpm drop, or performance difference other than in the powder? Did you change the gears? If so what gearing did you go to?
                  Did you buy and OEM track or other, and if other, what was it and where did you pick it up?
                  Thanks for the help.
                  Vince, pending bird hunting this weekend (after all it is nice and the dogs need to have fun too) we might get together, talk AC stuff, and look at the Lites.
                  Any other ideas from the viewing audience?
                  Dude, this is a 340, and you want performance? Come'on!!

                  If you want more track lug height, you can change out the 9-tooth drivers for the 8-tooth. You can also get 2" paddle tracks in 121", but that would be a waste. Buy rail extensions, 121-136" and go with the 2" paddles, then you'd be able to get around very well indeed.

                  Sport GT with 141" track? That was my first sled. Good machine, put almost 12k miles on it in the 3 years I owned it.
                  Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

                  Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

                  You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    track

                    i'm doing a change out on my 92 lite gt. right now it has a 133.5 x 1. i'm going to change the stock track on my trail rmk to a 2" which gives me the 136x1.25 for the gt. i believe it will clear but will be tight in the front of the tunnel. looks like only by 1/4 ". they will pull some snow forward so i have decided to go 8 tooth drivers which is about a 1/2" d&r equivilent. it is also about 11% gear reduction killing two birds with one rock. most adjusters will handle this if the two tracks are the same length. i will put a xtra-10 skid under it rather than do a setback just for a better ride and better in the deep. the selections seem better for a 136 track than a 133.5 when looking for used. but the 133.5 x 1.5 is fairly commom too and can be had cheap but drivers will have to be changed. so for me i will vastly improve this sled for a couple hundred bucks. 8 year old should love it and it will make a good lion hunting sled.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Nope

                      Nman, "dude" I don't see that I ever said I want performance. Looks pretty clear that I asked what issues people who have done these conversions have seen.
                      As far as a 2" on a 340, it seems to not make sense. I am not interested in having to gear the sled down to become a 20mph machine just to spin the track in powder. Heck if I want to go that slow I still have an Elan.
                      2" tracks around here fall apart. I am always finding broken lugs on the river and trails that are hardpacked. A 2" does not make sense for the things that I mostly do.
                      An 1 1/4" lug would give me almost 3/4" more than the sled had orginally, and I don't hear many guys complaining that those tracks fall apart like the deep powder lugs do.
                      For the guys with positive input, thanks.
                      Any clues besides Craigslist on the best place to buy tracks? Any type of track to stay away from for any reason?
                      Thanks guys.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If I ruffled your feathers while reading the performance issues out of context I apologize.

                        If you do find a paddle track on the cheap, you can cut the lugs down to the height you want and they will be very stiff; good for hardpack. And I got that out of a conversation from the owner of TracksUSA.com.

                        If you are running much on the hardpack, go to the 8-tooth drivers with the 1.5" and throw some studs in there. I had a 1.25" x 144" Camoplast Cross-Country on my '99 XCR800 and wish I'd had a little more lug height. I now have 1" x 16" x 156" on my Arctic Cat and REALLY wish I had more track/lug. The motor has more than enough power to spin the track. I think 1.5" would be much better than 1.25". Besides, if you do slap the 1.5" and you don't like it, it would only be a bit of work to take off the 1/4" to get to your target height of 1.25". Something to consider.
                        Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

                        Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

                        You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          thanks

                          Vince and Nitro, for the info, it is greatly appreciated and a good education so far ( for a newbie to sleds)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Ak River Rat View Post
                            Did you notice any rpm drop, or performance difference other than in the powder? Did you change the gears? If so what gearing did you go to?
                            Did you buy and OEM track or other, and if other, what was it and where did you pick it up?
                            Thanks for the help.
                            Vince, pending bird hunting this weekend (after all it is nice and the dogs need to have fun too) we might get together, talk AC stuff, and look at the Lites.
                            Any other ideas from the viewing audience?
                            I used the stock gearing and clutching and it worked very well. The track I used was an old one from a 440 I had at the time.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Nitro

                              Thanks for writing back. Your response seemed a little pointed, which was not like you. Said, done, accepted. Maybe I am a bit sensitive as my "go to" sled is an Elan and I was almost feeling like one of the big boys with my 340 monster twin.
                              And thanks for the idea on cutting a track down. That is something I never thought about, and would give a guy a lot more potential options, and maybe even save a few more dollars.
                              If a guy changes drivers, does that change the pitch? Maybe I got the word wrong. But is the spacing on the tracks the same for an OEM track with the factory driver and aftermarket if I change the driver?
                              Still waiting for one of you sled heads to tell me about a screaming deal laying in somebodies garage. Come on, fess up!
                              Thanks again NM.

                              Comment

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