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Anyone use a super sack? http://www.bagcorp.com/p_supersack.php
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One other consideration for tiedowns in big wind is to tie down the main (front) gear legs at an appropriate spot (axle next to the wheel) with the anchors 8 or more feet out in front of the plane and placed a bit wider than the distance between the wheels. . This provides an angle only a few degrees above horizontal and helps to reduce some of the jerking strain on the wing tiedowns in gusting winds. It also provides additional protection against the possibility of the tiedowns pulling loose. Mr. Pid is correct in suggesting the tail tiedown should be loose enough to allow the tail to fly. This reduces the angle of attack in a big wind and results in less strain on the wing tiedown rings and/or wing strut attach points.Comment
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Seen people use that orange fencing on constructions sites before. Pile rocks on top of it with a metal rod down below the fencing. I haven't personally tried it though.Comment
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I carry duckbills with driver and ax in cub. As backup I carry gill nets they are very light and you can fill them with rocks incase you cant get the duckbill in. Duckbills work great!! Gill nets are a lot lighter but then you have to fine the rocks to fill them.
DENNYComment
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I just looked at the cost of the Abe's system, and googled Duckbills. If you buy in quantity the 300 lb duckbills are something like $4 each and the 1100 lb ones are something like $7 each. Abe's system starts at $185.
I also watched the Aviation Consumer video again. The Aviation Consumer tests were done in very poor soil. I am not sure how duckbills would have done in that kind of soil. The 300 lb rating is only good if the soil lets you put that kind of load on the duckbill.
Someone below raised the question of mesh wing spoilers. How well do they work? If you have them is there still a reason not to tie down the tail? If they work, I can't see any reason why it would not be a good idea to have a good tiedown as well. Am I missing something?Comment
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