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  • Connecting logs.

    O.K. what is the best way to anchor the logs together, spikes, screws, rebar, or greased wooden dowls? Also has anyone used a caulking like tremco between the logs instead of log insulation?

  • #2
    What is log insulation? I've used fiberglass insulation or 'sill seal' foam between 3 sided logs, and perma chink on the outside. I build with vertical logs, so it might be different?

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    • #3
      Not sure what kind of logs you are using, but on scribed logs it's traditional to use wooden dowels around the openings. I've used turned oak pegs and hand whittled spruce and the current house I'm in was built with square 1x1" pine pegs ripped on a tablesaw. All worked, but there isn't too many pegs used in your average scribed shell. The square pegs in the round hole (no joke) actually worked pretty well and provided a nice friction fit. That would be what I would do again. If you build right, there will never be any stress on them anyways.

      For two and three sided logs, I believe most people are now using special long screws that self countersink and allow for settling, but Vince would probably be the one to ask. If you just spike together without allowing for shrinkage/settlement I would bet you would get drafty pretty quick.

      On a scribed shell, there isn't really a tight enough surface for using tremco. Fiberglass with perhaps some sill-sealer is the standard. On a three sided, it would be possible but I don't have any experience with it.

      Yk

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      • #4
        That little log cabin place, on the frontage road next to the Seward Hwy around 70th, sells blue treated logs screws that are 16 inches long. I bought a bucket of them (100X $2.35 each) for my cabin last summer.
        These were the longest log screws I could find. Fire and Fastener doesn't even carry screws this long.
        I havn't used them yet, so I don't know how practicle they will be.

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        • #5
          Log screws...

          The place I finished last fall had 3/4" allthread rods placed strategicaly around the bldg and openings.(These were 20"-2' logs)The owner is still snugging them up after two seasons, and I feel he'll be doing it alot longer.He used green logs with compression fit saddle notches for the corners.Logs were full scribe.We were told to leave 5" room over the openings,and last time I looked, he had about a half inch space...oops.lol...Dang I love stick framed.GR

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          • #6
            What type of logs are you using? Have they been milled? I can recommend a guy in Willow who mills double T&G on the mating surfaces and runs thick butyl tape in the crack. Much better than flat sided D milled logs and messing with caulk.
            We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

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            • #7
              These are milled D-logs, I'm just not to hip on the screws or the spikes.

              They have been sitting for a year, just don't know what the shrinkage would be, and how much cracking there will be.

              And Yellowknife I have heard of the square peg in a round hole.

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              • #8
                get the log hog screws. You will need a 1/2 HP drill to put them in. You need to put them in every 10" in a zig zag pattern and 2 4" from the end at each joint. So at each joint there will be 4 screws. Also get the log insulation that fits in the V notch. You can buy it on roll. Try not to have any breaks except at windows and doors.

                Also try and get screws that are long enough to go into the next log. Counter sink the top log with a 3/4 inch spade bit and then sink the screw down through that log, through the one directly below and at least 1" into the third row.

                Also use 2 pieces of weather stripping at each joint. One on the inside and one toward the outside of the joint going vertical.

                I have built these professionally and if you need any help PM me your phone # and I will be happy to help out.

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                • #9
                  klickitat....was the "put them in every 10" a typo? Should it be every 10' ...mind you I know nothing about building log cabins..just asking?

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                  • #10
                    10"...

                    At every 10", you need a semi load

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                    • #11
                      hey rock... i have built 9 places with Georges logs...


                      Log screws.. every 18-24 inches...


                      torpedo level the log. use screw on high side start at but joint work to end...

                      logs that BOW... use 4 inch log screw and pry bar... put screw i face.. and pull log to you to remove bow... 1/2 indrill or better. double screw those point you pull..

                      level walls FROM INSIDE THE HOUSE!!!!!!!! use 6' level... use 4x4 roughs to support along door and window opeingins UNITL DONE


                      but joints... FIBERGLASS sill seal or adhesives like used on osb sheeting...
                      DO NOT USE THE foam seal. on but joints you WILL later be un happy...

                      call me i will explain how to make paper tight but joints...

                      VInce... 20 x24 with loft = 4 box screws...
                      "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

                      meet on face book here

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Rock_skipper View Post
                        These are milled D-logs, I'm just not to hip on the screws or the spikes.

                        They have been sitting for a year, just don't know what the shrinkage would be, and how much cracking there will be.

                        And Yellowknife I have heard of the square peg in a round hole.
                        They "say" an 8ft wall will settle 2-4 inches depending on the log and the area it was cut.
                        We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

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                        • #13
                          Couple of pic's of the logs:Click image for larger version

Name:	ricks pix 486.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	97.3 KB
ID:	2463915see if this works

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                          • #14
                            Click image for larger version

Name:	ricks pix 485.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	38.2 KB
ID:	2463916another one

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                            • #15
                              yes every 10". here is a link to the company I used to work for. They are down here in WA so I hope that I am not breaking any rules. I just wanted to show some pictures of the work I did. http://pinecreekloghomes.net/

                              The house in the banner was with in 1/2" of square when the walls were completed. We also used SIP panels on this house for the roof. We chose the finnished beaded pine panels so that we would not have to finnish the vaulted ceiling.

                              Oh yeah I also forgot to put in: that the joints have two holes drilled and have two 1" hardwood dowels placed at the joints to keep the logs joints from twisting.

                              As for the foam insulation; we used the rope style because of the V-notch cut into the bottom of each log.

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