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Opinions on Hunter Specialties (HS) Camo Paint

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  • #16
    I've had decent luck with the camo spray paints (of various brands). I just buy some when it's cheap and stockpile it until I need to touch the boat up. As others have said, after a season of use, any type of paint is going to need touching up, so why waste money on expensive stuff? I've had good luck with a pale olive green base and a ton of brush. No stencils required.

    One thing I've noticed in Alaska is that because the season changes so quickly, no single color is going to be much use for the whole season. It's better to brush the blind/boat with veg that matches the conditions at that time. It's pretty easy to spot a boat blind across a marsh that isn't the same color as the rest of the vegetation, and if I can do it, so can the birds. Another way to think of it is that birds which approach low over the water (such as divers) are less likely to notice an out-of-place blind, but birds that approach from higher up (such as mallards) can pick it out in a heartbeat. In either case, the better you brush the blind and match the local environment, the less obvious it'll be to birds.

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    • #17
      I ordered from Parker as well. Great paint has held up really well over two years now. But like everyone said , its a duck boat, so the paint will see hard use and will need touch ups to keep it looking sharp. For base color, I use the Parkers hunter green which matches the mud in our marshy area as well as the rocky shoreline and the kelp/sea weed so this color alone hides well for the bay and shore line. If the marsh was my main plan I would shoot the grass pattern over the dark base color which gives depth and hides well, add grass to the rails and its invisible.

      Stencils can be made real easily. I ordered a set of realfoot stencils and have made about a dozen off the one I bought. the krylon or rustolium rattle cans work fine for your break up colors on the salt/shore/rocky areas but the parker colors match the grass much better.

      As Miller said , natural veg is the ticket. OD green works perfectly if you have grass rails or a boat blind you can veg up.
      This is the Parker hunter green, some walmart flat black and some krylon, whatever is handy. Some camo burlap and sea ducks almost fly into it. stuff the grass rails and shes perfect in the marsh so this is versitile, marsh one day sea ducks the next.

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      • #18

        Here is a shot of the Home Depot rattle can paint with fast grass used as stencil.
        Paint lightest color first. Light to dark, and just "fog" the darker colors as its really easy to get too dark.


        Sent from my bag phone

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        • #19
          I just went through a can of HS olive drab, painting a 50 lb johnson 7.5 horse twin. Since I paint occasional vehicles, I had some left over automotive degreaser, and surface prep. Since it's just matt finish, and used for hunting, I found no reason to fire up my HVLP gun, and just rattled canned it. Dryed quick, and is a perfect color match to the 17 ft x 51 in. Esquif Rangely canoe.
          www.freightercanoes.com

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          • #20
            Wellllllll...given that prices seemed to have went up on camo vinyl ,and the least I would have to pay for vinyl is about $380, I've decided to just rattle can the whole thing, as you guys suggest. So that's my plan now. Figure to just use the HS camp paint at Cabela's rather than have ti shipped in.

            I'm still planning to use the Marsh Grass Tan as the main color, that is, paint the entire boat, inside and out tan. I'm wondering if I should use the mud brown over the stencil. (I'll use the realfoot or something similar.) I'm thinking, for up here, tan and brown are about the only useful colors. Does anyone disagree?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by mainer_in_ak View Post
              I just went through a can of HS olive drab, painting a 50 lb johnson 7.5 horse twin. Since I paint occasional vehicles, I had some left over automotive degreaser, and surface prep. Since it's just matt finish, and used for hunting, I found no reason to fire up my HVLP gun, and just rattled canned it. Dryed quick, and is a perfect color match to the 17 ft x 51 in. Esquif Rangely canoe.
              I think I may have a spare prop for that outboard, if you're interested. It was in my Dad's things. I brought up thinking it was for my 4 hp. It's not, but it may be either for yours or the 9.5.

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              • #22
                Fl, Practice on an old fold up camp chair. You can never have too many camo camp chairs.

                Hit the chair with color after color after color until it looks good and then you'll be an expert in camo design enough to do your boat well.

                I think last time I used beige, black, Brown, & white rattle cans.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by FamilyMan View Post
                  Fl, Practice on an old fold up camp chair. You can never have too many camo camp chairs.

                  Hit the chair with color after color after color until it looks good and then you'll be an expert in camo design enough to do your boat well.

                  I think last time I used beige, black, Brown, & white rattle cans.
                  Practice certainly is a good idea. I'm having a mental block with planning this. My Army training (Army training sir! -Bill Murray-Stripes lol) tells me to paint the whole boat tan as that is the predominant color here in the fall. But looking at the realfoot website, at their stencils and the instructions, looks like yo have to use the tan for painting the stencil shapes, which meansI have to have something darker for the base color. The instructions say use green, but I'm very hesitant to use green because it's only green up here until about early August. Also, those "instructions" on how to paint those stencil patterns, seem pretty complex to me. I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't just paint the whole boat tan, leave it a solid color, and buy some burlap or something from Cabela's to hang over the sides.

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                  • #24
                    we put four coats of hs olive drab on the large skid plate I epoxied to the bottom of the 17 ft x 51 in wide esquif rangely. After hitting gravel, we only scuffed off about a 2 in. long section of the paint, easily touched up. Overall, I like the HS paint, even used what was left over on a beater rifle.
                    www.freightercanoes.com

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                    • #25
                      touched up?

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                      • #26
                        So, it looks like I'm going to get a realfoot stencil kit in Max4 for the boat. The company website lists instructions that gives a list of Krylon rattle cans by color code number. Sand Dune 8148, Med. Brown 8147, and Black 8140. Anyone have any idea how those colors compare to the cans at Cabela's? Or how the Krylon compares to the HS brand?

                        By the way, I am well past 100 hours of labor time on this boat so far, and I haven't put down one drop of paint yet. I've been averaging 3-4 hours a day, 4-5 days a week on it, with a few 8 hour days, for about the last month or more. I've worked on it for the last five days straight almost all day every day.

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                        • #27
                          I seen this stencil kit on Ebay. The plastic stencils would last forever so you could do touch ups every year if nessessary. I made my own stencils last year out of cardboard. They worked ok but were destroyed after painting the boat.

                          http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redleg-Camo-...item3cdf7fda90

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Ruckup View Post
                            I seen this stencil kit on Ebay. The plastic stencils would last forever so you could do touch ups every year if nessessary. I made my own stencils last year out of cardboard. They worked ok but were destroyed after painting the boat.

                            http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redleg-Camo-...item3cdf7fda90

                            Yeah, I've seen those redleg kits.

                            In other news, I've been to mall warts, Fred meyers, Lowes', and Home Depot, and none of them have ANY of those colors or anything that could be considered even close to a camo colored paint. Which sucks, because I was hoping to find those colors in the Krylon that adheres to plastics, so I could turn my son loose on a nice chest with the stencils or something.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by FL2AK-Old Town View Post
                              Yeah, I've seen those redleg kits.

                              In other news, I've been to mall warts, Fred meyers, Lowes', and Home Depot, and none of them have ANY of those colors or anything that could be considered even close to a camo colored paint. Which sucks, because I was hoping to find those colors in the Krylon that adheres to plastics, so I could turn my son loose on a nice chest with the stencils or something.
                              Andy's ACE hardware on Muldoon has Fusion paints. They may have a camo Fusion paint by now. Years ago I used a satin hunter green Fusion paint as a base paint on a cooler and then covered that with camo. It wears off easily. If I was to paint plastic again I would use gray auto body primer specificaly for plastic car parts and then cover that in camo paint. You will need to spend a good deal of time washing the mould release off the cooler with a mild solvent and then lots of diluted dish soap and a good rinse.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by AK Ray View Post
                                Andy's ACE hardware on Muldoon has Fusion paints. They may have a camo Fusion paint by now. Years ago I used a satin hunter green Fusion paint as a base paint on a cooler and then covered that with camo. It wears off easily. If I was to paint plastic again I would use gray auto body primer specificaly for plastic car parts and then cover that in camo paint. You will need to spend a good deal of time washing the mould release off the cooler with a mild solvent and then lots of diluted dish soap and a good rinse.
                                thanks, Ray. A camo cooler project was had in mind for my son. Sad to hear the stuff doesn't work well.

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