Marten cubby question



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  • Marten cubby question

    I am new to Marten trapping and wanted to post a pic of my cubby set and hope some of you experienced guys will offer you opinions on what I am doing right and wrong. I made a cubby set approx. 50 yards from a pole set and found it broken apart with the duck carcass missing and the 110 connibear went off but there was nothing in it. I think my mistake was in not covering the cubby enough so as to make only one clear entrance and it just pushed my sticks aside and ran off with the duck. I have now added another duck, sable oil for a lure, a number one foothold on the inside and piled on more sticks to make a more definitive entrance where my 110 is located. Does this sound right? Where can I improve? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
    Attached Files

  • #2

    With a cubby like that it could have been a lynx or wolverine that destroyed your cubby as well. A stick could have set your trap off when they went for the cubby. Have you tried making a set with a flowerpot or newspaper box? You can also use a regular pole set with a #1longspring trap at the end.

    The other downfall with a trap on the ground like that is you are most likely going to loose your marten to voles or other critters if you don't check everyday.


    • #3
      marten cubby

      I had a lot of similar problems til I went to a prefabricated cubby. Mine are made of 1"x2" 14 ga. welded wire hardware cloth (screen). Notches are cut for the springs of the 120 trap. They are 7" tall and 6" wide and put together with rabbit cage clips. A 8" flap in the opposite end from the trap folds down to hold the cubby in the open position. This has made a huge difference for me, the downside is you have to pack the set in. The upside is time saved gathering sticks, etc for construction. Use a decent size chunk of bait, wrap it in some grass, and wire it into the back of the cubby so the mice can work it without pulling it into the trap and firing it. It can also be attached to a leaning pole a few feet off the ground so you catch hangs free. Hope this helps! WW


      • #4
        Was there any tracks?Could have been anything,owl,raven,fox,lynx even a ermine can make a mess.I would focuss on getting your marten sets off the ground.


        • #5
          Cubbies work

          But I have lost some marten to voles... You want to get your marten up and hanging if possible. They die so fast even in footholds that they will be eaten up by mice on the ground.

          Make a box set in a tree, or even a pole set with the conibear on the pole.

          Cubby sets on the ground like that need to be checked at least once a day.
          Wasilla Real Estate News


          • #6
            Coffee Cans

            Has anyone tried plastic coffee cans (you know the COSTCO Folger cans) instead of flower pots or wooden cubbies.

            I plan on using em on my sets, but not sure if the color (red) will affect the set and keep the marten away.

            They seem really durable and seem to be the right size. Hard to find flower pots this time of year.

            Arctic Hunter (aka Arctic Trapper)
            2006 22ft Defiance 220EX
            150 HP Yamaha 4-Stroke
            Call Sign - "Defiance"


            • #7
              Thanks for the input

              Thank you for responding, I see the pattern here of wanting to get the sets off the ground and I have been keeping my eye open for newspaper boxes. I am interested in hearing the reactions about coffee cans being used since I do have those, what about plastic milk jugs for that matter? Or is it the length of the nwewspaper box that makes it so effective? I have also heard that about half of the martens and these tend to be the females, won't climb up a pole set what is your take on that theory?

              I couldn't make out any tracks in the poor snow conditions, but since the nearby duck on the pole set has been untouched I didn't think it was birds but I guess I'll never know. I also have some connibears mounted on standing trees with bait above but no sort of box to contain them in. I wonder if this will work or will the marten just go around the connibear to get to the bait? I suppose that's where the box comes in handy, to funnel them into an entrance of sort. Anyway's best of luck to all of you and keep the pics coming of your catches me and my boys love to see them!


              • #8
                Coffee Can Setup Pics

                Here is the setup. The clip idea came from I believe FAmily TRapper. My first thoughts is that the opening is not large enough to fit the 120, so I have it set on the outside of the can opening. The trap will vertically on a tree.

                My initial thought about the opening not being large enough would be that it would affect the trap from firing off effectively, by possibly pinning the catch between the clip and jaws of the trap, not allowing the trap to fall from the clip and suspending the marten.

                Any thoughts on this? Would like to use this setup this weekend when I set. Also what do you think about the red color, see any issues with that. Tis' the season. Hopefully the color wont attract the trap theives!!!

                Sorry to rob this thread. I can always start a new one.

                Arctic Trapper
                Attached Files
                2006 22ft Defiance 220EX
                150 HP Yamaha 4-Stroke
                Call Sign - "Defiance"


                • #9
                  OK!The point in using newpaper box's is that it's the perfect SIZE cubby to hold bait AND MOUNT a coni(what ever size you use 110's OR 120's).I have had no problems using 110's in SEVERAL DEFERENT COLOR'S of newspaper box's.Some people use different types of cubby's such as flower pots,coffee cans,newspaper box's, home made wooden box's and even cubby's made of chicken wire.All are different way's people trap marten.Which ever one method you use will mostly depend on what resource's you have at hand and MOST importantly,which method is EFFICIENT in putting sets out.Don't get caught up in about what color or type of cubby's you use.You want to be able to make fast sets that attract marten and will hold up in different weather conditions.If the marten are there,you will KNOW!The hardest part of marten trapping is finding pockets of marten.Once you find them,you are unlimited in the ways to catch them.After picking what ever method you will be using the next thing is to gather your bait which can be anything from fish heads,guts,meat scraps,breasted grouse/ducks,and even donuts.I know of a trapper in Talkeetna that uses hot dogs for bait!Next you want a lure that will catch their attention.These can be anything from a skunky based lure to a sweet smelling lure.Finally,the last thing I do after making a set is hang some type of attractor.You can use anything from marking ribbon,cd's,small pie pans,wings and even Xmas tincel!I guess one of the funnest parts of trapping marten is first finding them,picking a method to trap,picking a bait and picking a lure.
                  Here's a before pic

                  And after


                  Even caught this one in a culvert


                  • #10
                    I tend to think the marten are actually attracted to the colored can's, tubes, etc. They are something new in the area and the marten are curious.
                    You don't need to make a cubby that big to catch marten. The idea of a cubby is just to funnel the animal over, or thru, the trap.
                    The others are right about voles/shrews. You will lose fur to them if it lays on the ground for long.
                    I can't help being a lazy, dumb, weekend warrior.......I have a JOB!
                    I have less friends now!!


                    • #11
                      I agree MT that marten are curious and that visual and scent play a important role but pesonally don't think color has much to do with it.I think more of something out of place or disturbed matter's more.Myself,I think a good lure is the most important.I have seen tracks skip right below some sets and after applying a strong lure,it peaks their interest and they investigate.Another thing people need to remember is that conditions vary in marten country and what works in one area might not work as well as another.Where I trap it's -20 or colder most of the season so a strong skunky lure is most important for me.


                      • #12

                        Just got the newspaper boxes this year so I'll try them out. I'd like to leave them bright colored but I've spray painted them to avoid theft (I trap a lot of multiuse trails). When i lived in another part of the state (out west) i used double ended wooden cubbies- worked alright but i did not do a ton of trapping. I'm putting about 30 newspaper boxes and wooden cubbies this year. Other attractors to try are bird wings/feathers if you are worried about flagging tape attracting trap thieves or anti-trappers.
                        Attached Files


                        • #13
                          Plywood boxes

                          Ditch the sticks. Find some plywood (5/8" or 3/4") and make a box like AMP did above. I've never seen one that had a trap in each end like that. I always put some heavier screen on one end. I can't see if he put the nails through the top and bottom to make the 110 jump out but I am guessing he did. My dad and I trapped a lot when I was kid back it late 70's through the late 80's. Wolves, lynx, fox, were the glory catches. Marten was the money. My dad still has a certificate we got from the Hudson Bay Company for a 130$ Marten. For a few years we consistantly got near 100$ a piece for them. It made them very appealling targets. Then of course the anti-fur people kicked up in the late 80's and the whole thing went to #$%@. Marten are reasonably easy to catch. If you are in an area with a lot of canines I would suggest put the box up higher or the only Marten you will have left will be what is left stuck between the trap jaws. Good luck and have fun.


                          • #14

                            Reason for the multiple conibears is I'm still hoping for a double. I'll set some out this year, actually tomorrow because that is when trappin starts down here. If I get a double I'll post it. Spike, what is the deal with the nails to pop the trapped animal out. I"ve never heard of it or used it and was curious how you set it up. These forums are awesome especially for us self taught trappers. I used to use the ground set cubbies- with 160's with a #1 longspring back-up but the elevated boxes are the way to go. No wasting time looking for the hollowed out logs or the root wad "bunkers" and losing your bait to ermines and mice. You can experimant a lot with elevated marten traps- baits, attractors, ramps, positions, colors, whatever- it's got to be the funnest animal to trap because they are attracted to so many different things.


                            • #15

                              When you set the 110 in the box and an critter goes into it and snaps it obviously snap around its center axis. This is great except that the Marten or Mink (the box works good for them to) is already a little leary. Take you box and set your 110 in it. Right at the back of here your 110 sits drive 4 nails or screws. Two at the top and bottom. When you set the 110 in there put the back of the inside jaws up against the nails. The nails or screws need only stick down less than and inch. When the 110 snaps it is forced to spring forward. This in conjuction with doglegging the trigger wires back a little ensures that not much will get out of the trap before it closes. Have you ever come up on a box with a snapped 110 hanging out of it and no bait. Somewhere a Marten had a sore forehead and nose. The nails will help with that.
                              Where is down there?


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