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Propper Arrow Selection, and weights - Explain

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  • Propper Arrow Selection, and weights - Explain

    Explain propper arrow selection and weights to me. I do not understand it!

    Feel free to include broadhead weights in that as well.

    I need to learn!

  • #2
    WOuld love to help but Im still learning myself talk to mark taylor on this forum he can help for sure the man know alot and is always willing to help.
    Is it opening day of duck season yet
    Member of Alaska Waterfowl Association


    • #3
      You need to have an arrow with proper spine and proper FOC (foward of center) if the spine is too weak the arrow will fly horrible if the FOC is off the arrow will fly horrible the FOC should be between 8%-12% the Spine it all depends on your poundage as well. Shoot too light of an arrow it would be like dry firing your bow example shooting GT 3555 out of a 70 lb bow. That arrow is going to be going fast but the limbs on that bow won't last very long and weak keep this up the bow will let go or the arrow will let go. Also what happens with with a weak spine arrows shot out of your bow the arrow will dog leg it to the target.


      • #4
        So, I'm shooting a PSE X-Force Dream Season EVO - Poundage is set at 66# and I was setup with PSE Carbon Force STL Hunter 300 Arrows....that sound right?


        • #5
          Yes that is a good arrow for the bow. go to gold tip website and they have an arrow builder with a built FOC calcualator. Pretty neat that will give you a good idea on what to expect for goldtips or other arrows in that range. For few months when I got back into archery I this oh man the arrow has to be 30 inches long I have to shoot 7595 arrows. I got to looking around and reading and found out a 5575 cut to 27 inches was a perfect arrow for my 70 lb allegiance. I went from shoot a 450gr plus arrow to a 350gr arrow that gave good penetration good flight.


          • #6
            Could spend a little time over on this site.Alot of great info.
            Remember, Mother nature has no forgiveness for stupidity.
            If you don't care where you are, your not lost


            • #7
              Arrow shaft selection is dependant on 4 primary factors: draw length, draw weight, head weight & shooting style.

              If you watch slow motion video of an arrow being released you'll see that it flexes. This flexing is called parallax and it cannot be eliminated. For every bow there is a range of parallax that it can absorb and shoot well. The trick for archers is to find an arrow/head combo that matches the parallax range of the bow they shoot. This is where spine comes in.

              As you probably know by now the selection of shafts is huge, and possibly confusing to a novice. The reason for this is because we're all different, physically, and we're all searching for an arrow we can shoot consistently. By starting with the fixed points of draw length, draw weight and shooting style you can narrow your range of possible shaft types/sizes that will work with your bow, and this is the bottom line. Aluminum, carbon, or wood...the goal is to find shafts that fly well from YOUR bow.

              Generally, on a hunting arrow the broadhead should be 25% to 30% of the arrow's total assembled weight. Most compound shooters, using a release and shooting arrows in the 1 oz range (437.5 grains) will meet this ratio with a head 100 to 125 grain head.

              Then, once you've established good (consistently correct) shooting form, assuming you've got an arrow shaft well matched to your personal dimensions and bow, you work on tuning. Tuning will tell you what need to change if you're not getting good arrow flight.
              If cave men had been trophy hunters the Wooly Mammoth would be alive today


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