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I've been asked to do a "easy to do" board bow build along. It will be a week or so before I can get started but I'd like to ask some questions and give you a partial materials list.
I would like to know your wood working skill level?
Do you just want a basic "how to" or should I include some design theory?
Should we biuld a standard long bow or something a little different like say a Holemgarrd inspired bow? This would be a distinctive quick shooting bow that still is fairly simple to make.
For safety's sake we need to do a backed bow. Good thing is backing almost always improves performance as well as safety. First thing on the list then is Raw hide. Raw hide can be purchased in anchorage at Black elk bead and leather. I have found if I use goat raw hide I don't have to resize it, this makes for a faster biuld and stronger backing than cow raw hide. It is also very affordable you can back about 6 bows for $45. down side is it has to be spliced. I get creative with splicing but some folks don't care for the way it looks and prefer a more linear form. Elk and deer hide are also excellent options but much more expensive, they also have can be cut in strips long enough to make seeming unnecessary.
Please wait till I have time to make some diagrams before getting a limb wood, but if you'd like to find a riser wood no time like the present. In anchorage you can find exotic and domestic hard woods at "hardware specialties" off arctic. In wasilla there is a gentleman on fish hook with a good selection of full length lumber cut hardwoods. But the best deal going by far is "the fir traders" on industrial in palmer. I get almost all my bow woods through him. Almost any hard wood will work as a riser. The denser and heavier the better. While your out get a bottle of tight bond 3 and that's it for now.
The tools used on this can be as basic or as fancy as you have access to. This could literally be built with a knife and a piece of sand paper, it would just take you forever. I find a cabinet scraper very useful and my spoke shave indespenable. I don't really like to use power tools(philosophical thing) so after the stave is cut to thickness I don't.
I'll try to post some material on wood selection for the limbs in a few days.
I would like to know your wood working skill level?
Do you just want a basic "how to" or should I include some design theory?
Should we biuld a standard long bow or something a little different like say a Holemgarrd inspired bow? This would be a distinctive quick shooting bow that still is fairly simple to make.
For safety's sake we need to do a backed bow. Good thing is backing almost always improves performance as well as safety. First thing on the list then is Raw hide. Raw hide can be purchased in anchorage at Black elk bead and leather. I have found if I use goat raw hide I don't have to resize it, this makes for a faster biuld and stronger backing than cow raw hide. It is also very affordable you can back about 6 bows for $45. down side is it has to be spliced. I get creative with splicing but some folks don't care for the way it looks and prefer a more linear form. Elk and deer hide are also excellent options but much more expensive, they also have can be cut in strips long enough to make seeming unnecessary.
Please wait till I have time to make some diagrams before getting a limb wood, but if you'd like to find a riser wood no time like the present. In anchorage you can find exotic and domestic hard woods at "hardware specialties" off arctic. In wasilla there is a gentleman on fish hook with a good selection of full length lumber cut hardwoods. But the best deal going by far is "the fir traders" on industrial in palmer. I get almost all my bow woods through him. Almost any hard wood will work as a riser. The denser and heavier the better. While your out get a bottle of tight bond 3 and that's it for now.
The tools used on this can be as basic or as fancy as you have access to. This could literally be built with a knife and a piece of sand paper, it would just take you forever. I find a cabinet scraper very useful and my spoke shave indespenable. I don't really like to use power tools(philosophical thing) so after the stave is cut to thickness I don't.
I'll try to post some material on wood selection for the limbs in a few days.
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