Tuning Broadheads...



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  • Tuning Broadheads...

    How does everyone tune thier broadheads? I was told just to ensure that the three blades (using thunderhead 125's) alinged with the vanes & it should suffice...

    Who has some better advice? I am using 30" 5575 Gold Tip's with 125 thunderheads...

    Thanks in advanced...


  • #2

    If you spin test each arrow with the broadhead attached and they spin alright, you should be fine. If any are not spinning correctly then it is time to figure out what is wrong with the arrows or broadheads. I don't know if you have inserts, epoxied or what so. Just make sure everything spins correctly.

    If the broadheads are hitting to the same POA as the field points it is usually a bow tuning problem. Not an arrow problem.

    Start with spin testing.

    Patriot Life Member NRA
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    • #3
      You need to make sure your arrows are spined correctly. Depending on your draw weight, These probably will never fly great. 5575's are probably way underspined for your set up. 7595's would be much better if you want to keep shooting goldtips. It will not make any difference what you do to tune correctly if your arrows are underspined. Sorry


      • #4
        For my bow I align the broadheads to the vanes. The I shoot then If it's off I rotate the knock. And shoot again. If it hits the mark I shoot it again and if same result I put it to the side. if it doesn't work after I roate the knock all the way around I slightly move the broadhead off center of the vanes. Then repeat the knock roation. This usally helps. Also I go true vaule and buy ring washers and put them between the broadhead and the arrow
        Living the Alaskan Dream
        Gary Keller
        Anchorage, AK


        • #5

          Check out the Easton Arrow Tuning Guide, which can be found here.


          A wealth of information about bow and broadhead tuning.



          • #6
            Tuning requires the bow to be properly tuned.

            The most important aspect of tuning broadheads is a properly tuned bow.

            Start by paper tuning with field points. When your field points are grouping in the same place shoot a bare shaft. Watch the flight of the bare shaft is it kicking up or down, left or right? If the bare shaft and the field points are not in the same group make slight adjustments to your rest until they are. Once your field points and the bare shaft are all hitting the same spot @ 20yards adjust your sight to zero back in on the center.

            Now you can shot broadheads. If the broadheads are correctly centered on the arrow (spin test) they should hit where your field points and bare shaft hit. If they are not you can adjust the broadheads on the arrows to fix it. Usually aligning the broadhead with the fletching is a good start.

            To many people spend time goofing with broadheads when there bow is not properly tuned to shoot any arrow in the first place.


            • #7
              Aligning the broadheads to the fletching is a myth...otherwise those of us that shoot 2 and 4 blade heads would be screwed.

              Read the Easton Tuning guide and everything is a piece of cake.

              The other big issue is people that do not shoot enough. Shooting broadheads will show form issues and shooting errors much worse than shooting field tips. If you are punching the trigger, torquing the bow, or have other issues it is going to show up BIG TIME when it comes to broadheads.
              Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem


              • #8

                Jeffin AK, thanks for the link. Very good website.


                • #9
                  Shoot 'em!

                  First of all, these posts all have good advice. BUT bottom line, once you think they're tuned, you have to shoot 'em. All of them. And then replace/resharpen blades for hunting. I'm not implying that you wouldn't or that any of the other posters wouldn't. I used to work in a sporting goods store, and the number of folks who had no idea that bow tuning and arrow tuning were even issues was amazing. I've seen what can happen when people shoot poorly tuned gear. POI can change a lot, resulting in poorly hit/ lost critters. As hunters we need to take every precaution to avoid tarnishing our image. Lots of them think that if they shoot field points well and then just put on broadheads, they're ready to go. Same goes for boresighting a rifle. I used to have people come in the day before a hunt, buy a scope and ask me to bore sight it "so I'll be close enough on the hunt". Again, not implying that anyone here wouldn't do all of this stuff, just making sure....


                  • #10

                    Everybody that lines there broadhead with the vanes are you regluing the vanes to line up with the broadhead? You could spin those on/off a million xx before i ever get one lined up..I am shooting 100gr 3 blade muzzys 7595Gt out of 27in 70# switchback.The muzzy practice blades shoot right on. I put the hunting blades on and the arrows are spinning circles all the way to the target w/no pattern at all.. thinking about trying a mechanical blade instead..


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