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Trolling Outfit

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Thanks for that, BrownBear...I'll pick one up. Probably just start inline and see how I get used to the whole thing. I also found a clip on Shakespeare line counter in my stack of stuff..no idea how durable they would be in salt water, but it might help me get "close" for mooching and avoid springing for a line counter reel.

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  • BrownBear
    replied
    Originally posted by Garyak View Post
    I was reading on the wigglefin swarm thread about using them as a hookless attractor attached directly to the ball. When you do that, where do you attach your rigged line...the ones with hooks? Is there a specific product for that purpose that attaches higher on the cable above the weight?
    You got it. Scroll down on this page to see the #1176 Stacker. We tried the longer ones, but like the shorter 1176. Clip the stainless snap around your rigger wire (slides free for positioning), then grab the wire above it with the release on the shorter wire. Clip your fishing line to the second one.

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Well, I built a plate for my Scotty base that will accept both of those old downriggers pictured earlier, a holder for the ball so it doesn't roll all over the place and plan to install the whole business tomorrow. I hope my first rigger exercise doesn't turn into a goat rope. I was reading on the wigglefin swarm thread about using them as a hookless attractor attached directly to the ball. When you do that, where do you attach your rigged line...the ones with hooks? Is there a specific product for that purpose that attaches higher on the cable above the weight?

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  • BrownBear
    replied
    I don't have any experience with it. If budget is an issue for you, we did fine for years using Penn or Okuma levelwind reels and Okuma trolling rods. No, they're not as elegant, but they're sure functional and tough. You'll get lots of years of service while slowly changing over to other tackle as you gain more experience. I really like Penn reels for access to parts and easy repair and maintenance. I have some Penn's that are over 40 years old, and I can still get parts for them, and cheap! Talk about a budget stretcher when you can keep your gear going so long and do the work yourself.

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Thanks for the info,BB. Read lots of reviews and they all agree with you that both those rods are the bomb! You also mentioned the Saltist reels...like the Loomis, they're a ways out of my price range right now. Wondered if you might be familiar with the Sealines...a notch or 2 down from the Saltist line but still a Daiwa product.

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  • BrownBear
    replied
    Originally posted by Garyak View Post
    Yo, BrownBear...would you happen to know the model# of the Loomis rod that you mentioned earlier?
    It's the SAMR 1084 C on this page. Probably my favorite Loomis rod for trolling, though we like the SAMR 1265 even better for mooching. The SAMR 1265 is a dandy trolling rod too, whether with diving planes or on a downrigger. If I was to buy only one model for all three uses the SAMR 1265 would be my choice. You just can't believe what a good mooching rod it is for kings.

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Originally posted by Bullelkklr View Post
    And here I thought maybe you thinking something on the lines of
    Now that's a TROLLING OUTFIT!! Have ZZ Top's "Sharp Dressed Man" playing in the back of my mind. I could save up for one like this. Always want to look good on the water....

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Yo, BrownBear...would you happen to know the model# of the Loomis rod that you mentioned earlier?

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  • BrownBear
    replied
    Yup on the in-gear if you have other lines out, as in extra anglers. Of course, you can always kick it out of gear and just stop cranking on the rigger if you need to gain line on the fish for a moment or two. If there's a breeze or any chop, I also like to turn the boat broadside with the fish on the upwind side so the breeze and chop help you. It's also an advantage because it keeps your boat from running over the top of the fish in the last minutes before netting it.

    I've watched charters around here that just never stop to fight fish, leaving all the gear in the water and continuing to fish it, counting on the boat's forward motion to keep the fish back a ways until it tires and comes up on the surface. I hate that, but everyone has to run their boat their way.

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Originally posted by kodiakbound View Post
    I do it all the time, not a big deal. Just keep the motor in gear to help keep tension on the fish while you get the rigger up
    There ya go...exactly why this forum has been such a Godsend for anyone as inexperienced as me. My first thought would have been to kick it out of gear. I only have about a dozen trips under my belt, but each one seems get a little more efficient. I guess patience, practice and paying attention to good advice is the key.

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  • kodiakbound
    replied
    Originally posted by Garyak View Post
    That was another main concern as I am a one man crew. Kind of hard to reel up 2 things at the same time...
    I do it all the time, not a big deal. Just keep the motor in gear to help keep tension on the fish while you get the rigger up

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  • Garyak
    replied
    Originally posted by MRFISH View Post
    I've used the next step up manual cannon (the Uni-troll?), and always liked it. While the mag-troll, powered units always made me envious...the manuals are much lighter and easier to stow away when you're not using them if you have limited onboard space.

    If you have flush-mount rod holders in your gunwhales, you can get downrigger mounts that fit into those:
    http://store.cannondownriggers.com/p..._Gimbal_Mounts
    So, MRFISH, I did a little more checking and find that I'll have to modify my Scotty rigger base to make either unit work, but the base won't impede my pot landing zone...so that's good. But a general downrigger question. What happens when you hook a fish? I suppose you need to reel up the rigger weight so the fish doesn't get hung up in it. That was another main concern as I am a one man crew. Kind of hard to reel up 2 things at the same time...I guess a guy could try to keep tension on the fish so it doesn't throw the hook and reel like heck on the rigger to get it out of the way. That's why the line counter reel seemed attractive to me. I've seen formulas online that give ball park depths for amount of line out taking into consideration the weight and type of terminal tackle being used.

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  • MRFISH
    replied
    I've used the next step up manual cannon (the Uni-troll?), and always liked it. While the mag-troll, powered units always made me envious...the manuals are much lighter and easier to stow away when you're not using them if you have limited onboard space.

    If you have flush-mount rod holders in your gunwhales, you can get downrigger mounts that fit into those:
    http://store.cannondownriggers.com/p..._Gimbal_Mounts

    Leave a comment:


  • Garyak
    replied
    Thanks for the ideas, guys! I've resisted mounting the riggers as my extra wide gunnels make a perfect landing for my shrimp pots and I didn't want to mess up that situation. The other reason was that I couldn't figure out how the drag adjusts on either of them so basically just blew the whole thing off. I just now have discovered that its all in the handle...DOH! One is a Big Jon, the other a Cannon easy troll. Any thoughts on which is the better unit? I also have one of those removable Scotty bases. I guess if the rod I have would work ok, the 6501 Abu reel should, too. Sounds like I might be close to set up if I mount one of the riggers.

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  • Bullelkklr
    replied
    And here I thought maybe you thinking something on the lines of

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