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  • iofthetaiga
    replied
    Originally posted by Daveinthebush View Post

    My interpretation of that is: Shear pins cost very little so lets eliminate them so we can sell the more expensive props.
    Well, I'll grant you that today's hubs undoubtedly cost more than shear pins themselves used to, but I don't know if the props themselves cost more(?). One definite benefit of the new hub designs is that it makes most props universally interchangeable, i.e. you can now run most any brand prop on most any brand motor, whereas in the past that wasn't the case. I currently run a Merc prop on a Yam motor, something that I couldn't have done 50 years ago.

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  • Daveinthebush
    replied
    Originally posted by iofthetaiga View Post
    True they no longer employ shear pins. But that doesn't mean they don't have a mechanism to accomplish same. Prop hub design has evolved a fair bit over the past 50 years (for the better, IMO). Most all now use some sort of break-free hub to do what a shear pin used to do.
    My interpretation of that is: Shear pins cost very little so lets eliminate them so we can sell the more expensive props.

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  • iofthetaiga
    replied
    Originally posted by Daveinthebush View Post
    I do remember back, years ago that most small engines had shear pins. On all of my 8 to 9.9 kickers, none of them have them.
    True they no longer employ shear pins. But that doesn't mean they don't have a mechanism to accomplish same. Prop hub design has evolved a fair bit over the past 50 years (for the better, IMO). Most all now use some sort of break-free hub to do what a shear pin used to do.

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  • Daveinthebush
    replied
    I do remember back, years ago that most small engines had shear pins. On all of my 8 to 9.9 kickers, none of them have them.

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  • patrickL
    replied
    Originally posted by Daveinthebush View Post
    I'm probably going to get beat up for this but NO. On my ocean going boat I have stainless but the possibility of me hitting anything besides a stick is remote.

    Stainless is way stronger than aluminum and plastic props. If you hit something with a stainless prop, the impact is going to be passed onto the next weakest link in the system if things go bad. It takes only a couple of minutes to change a prop, much more time if it is a gear of shaft internal to the drive. I'd stick with aluminum or plastic and consider the prop as the weak link in the system. It may save money in the long end.
    This is great advice. I also think that you won't see the performance advantages of stainless on such a small motor as you would on the bigger motors. Definitely stick with aluminum and just carry a spare.

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  • Alaska Bush Hunter
    replied
    Oh I caught them twice two different locations they just drove off on ATV. I seen them once in Safeway North Pole. They are not kids …..mid twenties. They realize even me carrying a weapon I would not shoot them…….and he even said that to me.

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  • Chez
    replied
    Originally posted by Alaska Bush Hunter View Post
    My motor and canoe are locked up secure out of site inside ! I don’t leave anything outside …..know the crackheads at 2AM very well……prepared ……….caught them stealing my neighbors stuff several times…..I guess the word is out stay away from the crazy Vet with a M4.
    Done properly they would have only been caught once

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  • Alaska Bush Hunter
    replied
    My motor and canoe are locked up secure out of site inside ! I don’t leave anything outside …..know the crackheads at 2AM very well……prepared ……….caught them stealing my neighbors stuff several times…..I guess the word is out stay away from the crazy Vet with a M4.

    Leave a comment:


  • akdeweyj
    replied
    Originally posted by Daveinthebush View Post
    I'm probably going to get beat up for this but NO. On my ocean going boat I have stainless but the possibility of me hitting anything besides a stick is remote.

    Stainless is way stronger than aluminum and plastic props. If you hit something with a stainless prop, the impact is going to be passed onto the next weakest link in the system if things go bad. It takes only a couple of minutes to change a prop, much more time if it is a gear of shaft internal to the drive. I'd stick with aluminum or plastic and consider the prop as the weak link in the system. It may save money in the long end.
    Good info Dave, the only thing to add to the equation is the aluminum prop probably won't be ripped off by your friendly neighborhood crackhead looking to make a buck

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  • Alaska Bush Hunter
    replied
    Hmmm good advice just buy 2 Merc props and replace as necessary…..cheaper!

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  • Daveinthebush
    replied
    I'm probably going to get beat up for this but NO. On my ocean going boat I have stainless but the possibility of me hitting anything besides a stick is remote.

    Stainless is way stronger than aluminum and plastic props. If you hit something with a stainless prop, the impact is going to be passed onto the next weakest link in the system if things go bad. It takes only a couple of minutes to change a prop, much more time if it is a gear of shaft internal to the drive. I'd stick with aluminum or plastic and consider the prop as the weak link in the system. It may save money in the long end.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alaska Bush Hunter
    started a topic Stainless Prop

    Stainless Prop

    Thinking about putting a Stainless Steel Prop on my 9.9 Merc that I use on my Canoe ……,,,

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