Help with lower unit disassembly Johnson 9.9 2 stroke

[FL2AK-Old Town]

I’ve got the lower unit out of my 1975 Johnson 9.9 hp 2-stroke. I’m trying to get the bearing carrier out to replace the O-Rig that is behind the carrier. (I noticed oil draining out of the exhaust housing at the prop while replacing the water pump. I drained the lower unit, and it was part oil/part water. The prop shaft seal is bone dry, and the oil is puddled up in the bottom of the unit.) I can’t get the bearing carrier out. My Seloc manual says to use a puller or slide hammer threaded into two holes in the bearing carrier. Mine doesn’t have those holes. (All I have are the two holes that secure the bearing carrier, but putting a puller on those will only tear those treads out or damage the lower unit) So, without those holes, I’m at a loss. I was leaving to go hunting with it in four days. I need to either get this done (I still have to FedEx the O-Ring) or maybe I should just refill the lower unit with new gearcase oil, finish the water pump replacement, and hope it gets me though the first 10 days of the season.

Does anyone have any experience with this particular task on this particular engine? Anyone have any tips or advice?

[MacGyver]

Get a new "O" ring at Alaska Bearing.

Take a GOOD CLEAR picture so we can see what you have.

[Catch It]

I’ve got the lower unit out of my 1975 Johnson 9.9 hp 2-stroke. I’m trying to get the bearing carrier out to replace the O-Rig that is behind the carrier. (I noticed oil draining out of the exhaust housing at the prop while replacing the water pump. I drained the lower unit, and it was part oil/part water. The prop shaft seal is bone dry, and the oil is puddled up in the bottom of the unit.) I can’t get the bearing carrier out. My Seloc manual says to use a puller or slide hammer threaded into two holes in the bearing carrier. Mine doesn’t have those holes. (All I have are the two holes that secure the bearing carrier, but putting a puller on those will only tear those treads out or damage the lower unit) So, without those holes, I’m at a loss. I was leaving to go hunting with it in four days. I need to either get this done (I still have to FedEx the O-Ring) or maybe I should just refill the lower unit with new gearcase oil, finish the water pump replacement, and hope it gets me though the first 10 days of the season.

Does anyone have any experience with this particular task on this particular engine? Anyone have any tips or advice?

While not environmentally friendly, many an engine has been limped home by replacing whatever it is leaking/burning.

good luck, outboard motors are seemingly so simple, then reality sets in.

[FL2AK-Old Town]

While not environmentally friendly, many an engine has been limped home by replacing whatever it is leaking/burning.

good luck, outboard motors are seemingly so simple, then reality sets in.

Environmentally friendly...I run a 2-stroke! I'm evil incarnate. =)

Anyway, I just have the wrong puller on it. I had to borrow a different puller from friend. I'll call AK bearing in the morning.

[FL2AK-Old Town]

Nothing doing. The bearing carrier won't come. I've tried a couple different pullers, and nothing works. The closest I came was 1/4-20 thread all threaded into the mounting holes with a puller tightened to both sides of the threadall, hoping to copy the factory tool, but when I turn the prop nut, the prop just spin with no way of holding it (without damaging it).

So that's the end of that. J.Kimberly service is the only place in Anchorage that will even touch a 40 yr old, two stroke outboard, and they'll be booked up through September. So, I either a.) don't hunt or b.) just keep pouring oil in the lower unit and let J. Kimberly deal with it over the winter. At least it isn't POURING oil out of it, but it pisses me off to not be able to fix this.

[FL2AK-Old Town]

HA! I got it! I used vice grips to hold the thread-all, and I turned the bottom nut with an open end wrench That pushed the puller up agais the prop nut without turning the prop shaft, and t lifted right out.

The o-ring actually "looks" pretty decent, but, at this point, why take a chance? West Marine and Alaska Bearing didn't have any O-rings to fit it, so I had to order it from iboats.com and pay the next day shipping, so...$27 later...

Should be here on Friday. I can pop it in, fill the gearcase, and, as long as I did everything right (fingers crossed), still leave on Saturday.

[Sav .250]

Have you tried ... U-Tube ? May find a tutorial on the subject.