When I bought my boat it had some good nics and scratchs in the hull on the front sides from being tied to tight to a dock in some bad weather by the looks of it. There are some that have a sharp ridges on them. What would be the best way to to "dress" them up...or out if possible? There not terriblly deep but is some what of an eye sore. Thanks
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Getting nics out of aluminum
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Forget sandpaper or flappers! You want to use a wire wheel on a 4" grinder. A medium wire will round off all the sharp spots. A fine wire will smooth out the surface and allow you to feather in the finish.Winter is Coming...
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Originally posted by akdube View PostWhen I bought my boat it had some good nics and scratchs in the hull on the front sides from being tied to tight to a dock in some bad weather by the looks of it. There are some that have a sharp ridges on them. What would be the best way to to "dress" them up...or out if possible? There not terriblly deep but is some what of an eye sore. Thanks
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Originally posted by JOAT View PostForget sandpaper or flappers! You want to use a wire wheel on a 4" grinder. A medium wire will round off all the sharp spots. A fine wire will smooth out the surface and allow you to feather in the finish.
I'd go with an abrasive wheel on a grinder, I've found the 8" autobody attachments work wonders with 80 grit. For larger dings I'd likely first hit them with a file.Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.
If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.
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Originally posted by Paul H View PostI'd be cautious using a wire wheel. Wire wheels leave a bit of themselves in the material you use them on, and with aluminum being a less noble metal, it will corrode first due to galvonic action.
I'd go with an abrasive wheel on a grinder, I've found the 8" autobody attachments work wonders with 80 grit. For larger dings I'd likely first hit them with a file.
I would still suggest a dual action and some 80 grit in my professional opinionVisions Steel/841-WELD(9353)
"Rebellion is in my blood, I was born an American"
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I use Scotchbrite discs in different grits depending on how bad/deep the damage is. They will leave swirl marks only if you allow them to with your technique. Decrease your grit size as you get rid of the damage, the strength of the parent material won't be decreased enough to ever know. Final polish will be by hand with Scotchbrite pads in the direction of the grain of the metal. You won't be able to tell they were there unless you knew it beforehand. Discs are grit sized by color, coarse to fine, brown, purple, blue, grey. Brown is very agressive, grey will polish and do little else. Hand pads you will need are purple first, then gray. Should get the job done nicely. I use this stuff on aircraft sheetmetal and welding projects every day with great results. Good luck. Oz
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