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  • Boats and Rocks.

    Boats and rocks:

    When a boat hits a rock the rocks always wins if youíre lucky you have very little damage for the times you end up with a hole in your boat and need to repair the hole to get home? It hard to have everything you need to fix youíre boat so my list should be a good place to start.

    Here are some items that can be use to seal a leak.
    Shoe Glue }
    Goo } all slow drying
    GE Silicone II }
    Toilet ring wax, cheep
    Tacky Tape (Camper Supply)
    Gorilla Duct Tape
    clothing
    tree limb

    Because the hole is under presser when running you need to place a cover over it. Very thin Alum like pop cans or Alum roofing will work and can be cut with a scissors.


    You may need some special tools like a;
    Battery power drill and bits.
    Pop rivet and tools
    Self tapping screw or sheet metal screws.
    Hammer

    Putting the shield on the outside would be the best, if for some reason you canít do what you can. Youíre not going any where until you stop the boat from leaking or slow it down so your bilge pumps can keep up. Run the boat on shore, cut trees to make a crib, and a pry bar to lift the boat, or dig a trench under the boat or work under water, do what ever you need to get home.

    Where I run the rocks are not sharp so my biggest problem would be ripping out the transom.
    I also carry a hi-lift jack and a shovel; they have save my butt more than once mainly getting unstuck.

  • #2
    This is excellent information Rutting Moose thank you for taking the time for some common sense advice that could make the difference between catastrophe or a minor aw crap! I'll be checking my emergency hull repair checklist, thanks to you and I'll have that added confidence
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    • #3
      Great info-thanks!!
      I have such a hard time trying to decide which outdoor activity to do every chance I get!! Living in AK is a mental challenge

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      • #4
        Great info, thanks for posting this.

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        • #5
          I have a product to add to your list, there are several similar by different names, I know this one by Z-Spar putty. Comes in various sized containers, is a 2 part putty, mixed (kneaded) in moist hands like dough to a uniform color. Can be applied to an active leak, smeared in place, likes it wet, works under water, can be applied submerged, it doesn't care and it works. Another old standby is Marine-tex. Stay off the rocks!! Oz

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          • #6
            Tapered wooden plugs, something along the lines of these. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...1080&langId=-1


            A Nerf football will work. Here's a similar product. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...5901&langId=-1

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            • #7
              I pre-emptively bolt a 4x12 foot sheet of 3/16" T-1 steel on the outside of mine (course, I hit more rocks than some guys)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by OzAK View Post
                Z-Spar putty. Comes in various sized containers, is a 2 part putty, mixed (kneaded) in moist hands like dough to a uniform color.
                In the commercial fishing industry its called "Splash Zone" great stuff-
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                • #9
                  Thank guys for the suggestions will add them to the list. I was wondering why I did not do it before until I saw the cost. :eek:
                  Marine Ė Tex, 2oz $17, or 14 oz for $45
                  z-spar putty also called Splash Zone, Ĺ gal $60

                  If I remember the toilet ring wax is less than $2 ea and it dumb to worry about a few $$ when your ten of thousand of $$ boat is sinking. Isnít that human nature to not care until it too late?

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                  • #10
                    You never know when disaster will strike and with all the stuff we pack it never seams to amaze me at what else we should have taken. In fact the stuff I take is almost always stuff I wish I had during my last disaster. So if you have never had to patch a sinking boat you would do well to listen to Rutting Moose and add some of these things to your list. I like the sheet metal and rivets because that would have helped last time. The epoxy I had took a long time to set up and flaked off quickly because it got to cold out and never was able to cure right, plus getting the surface clean on an older (seasoned) boat can be problematic at best. Any body have experience with a small http://www.readywelder.com/? looks like it could be handy.
                    Cheers
                    Will

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                    • #11
                      Since my hull is wood, I carry a ~12"X18" piece of 1/4" marine ply with some drywall screws. My theory is if I really mess up, I 'll screw it in place and smear Z-spar around the gaps.

                      Another item to add is a tarp, you can run it down the hull, and water pressure will seal it somewhat against the gash. In theory it'll allow you to get to shore to enact a more permanent repair.

                      I don't know what has a more powerful attractive force, boats to rocks, or politicians to $
                      Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

                      If you have a tenuous grasp of reality, Alaska is not for you.

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                      • #12
                        Willster 33:

                        The biggest problem in trying to weld aluminum is having clean aluminum and no wind. Two years ago I welded up a friend boat in my yard, he destroy his bottom and needed a quick fix until he could replace the bottom. Because of the location, I could not clean the area, and trying to weld out side in the wind, I welded and then ground out the bad weld and re-welded a dozen times before it would hold, two + hours layer I was finish and it looked like crap I was so embarrass. The point Iím trying to make is you are not going to fix a hole in aluminum in the field the best you can do is stop the leak and get home.

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                        • #13
                          Another good way to do a field repair is Henry's 208 wet patch,,http://www.henry.com/sealants/roof_m...atchroofcement.. It will work under most any condition,hot, cold,wet,dry, you can even apply it under water.
                          Just smear it on about a 1/2 inch thick then work in some fiberglass webbing or window screen then just apply another coat of 208 then you should be good to go..
                          I have temporarily repaired many of roofs in the rain and snow, it pretty much does everything they say it does..

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                          • #14
                            Sounds like clean surface, wind and temperature hinder more then just epoxy Might have to stick with the rivets and sheet metal.

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