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  • Transom Saver

    One of my buddies uses these on his boat. It cradles the lower unit and attaches to the trailer below the transom. He swears all outboards should use them when under tow. It makes sense to me to transfer whatever load you can to the trailer would benefit the transom. I don't have one, but was wondering what other outboard owners think befor I buy.
    We never really grow up, we only learn
    how to act in public

  • #2
    You could make your own, with or without the spring action. Buy a kids pogo stick...???

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    • #3
      Transom saver

      Originally posted by Doug from Anchorage View Post
      One of my buddies uses these on his boat. It cradles the lower unit and attaches to the trailer below the transom. He swears all outboards should use them when under tow. It makes sense to me to transfer whatever load you can to the trailer would benefit the transom. I don't have one, but was wondering what other outboard owners think befor I buy.
      I just make a bracket out of a 2 X 4 that cradles the outboard & is atached to the boat trailer. Secured with a tie down strap.

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      • #4
        I suspect that there is much more force exerted on the transom while under power than that is experienced under normal trailering circumstances. One of these might help relieve the stress from the hydrolic rams: http://www.m-ywedge.com/

        I just use a couple of 4x4's cut to fit.
        sigpicSpending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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        • #5
          Bad Idea - To much flex in trailers

          I know the theory sounds great - but from what I have experienced there is to much flex on the trailers to stabilize the motors properly. All the motors I have had have a lever that you can raise the motor and engage to support the motors. I alway just raise the motors, set the lever and lower the motors back down on the lever for support. That takes the pressure off the hydraulic cylinders for transport.
          Not only that if you run long enough with the engines down you will eventually find that major pothole (or the rutted road) that magically appears before you can miss it - at that point the engines are going to stand a very good chance of hitting the hiway - "like the guy I seen three years ago going to Seward - It caused major damage to the lower unit housing and fin.
          How stupid is it to be wasting tons of salmon and halibut as bycatch in the Bering Sea and then have the coastal villages hollaring they have no food? It's got to stop!

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          • #6
            I use one on my skiff because the factory motor latch was starting to wear where it rests...a couple more trips and I would have had damage for sure. 4-strokes aren`t cheap and I needed the insurance.

            I agree that alot of trailers will twist and flex. If you use a saver make sure you don`t crank the bow into it`s roller too hard or you will actually apply leverage to the transom with the saver.
            sigpic

            Heavy Hitter Fishing
            https://www.facebook.com/pages/Heavy...54441957966186

            Kodiak Custom Fishing Tackle Pro-Staff

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            • #7
              FWIW: The little tab on the yamahas is not designed to be engaged while trailering as per the owners's manual. I am not sure what its purpose is then.:confused:
              sigpicSpending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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              • #8
                I had one on all my boats in the lower 48. It does just what you need it to.

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                • #9
                  temp lever is not for hauling

                  That little temporary lever is there for floating around in shallows, keeping motor up so your fish does not run under the boat and through the motor, etc. The leverage on them is horrendous and is applied directly to the transom. IMHO, it is a crash waiting to happen. You really should have the motor supported by the trailer. I built a wide bar, rubbered it, and secure the motor w/ bungies; that lets things flex. At least I did until the puds who sent me the last boat sent it on too short of a trailer. Now I keep the prop up w/ a board between the lower unit and the transom/floor connection. Good point about making sure the skeg is not low enough to catch the asphalt at 60 mph.

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                  • #10
                    Now I don't have a ginormous social circle, but I've never heard of a main outboard ripping itself off a transom, either by breaking its own tilt bracket or by ripping the transom itself. Maybe I don't get out much.

                    I have seen kicker motors mounted on those tilt-down kicker brackets bounce around a bit too much, both while running in water and while towing. Good idea to secure the motor to the boat in that case. Easy to rig up a strap on the boat where I experienced this.

                    Because of the huge amount of flex in a common commodity boat trailer, on the heaved roads of alaska, the frame member to which you tie your "transom saver" will move relative to your motor. When that happens, the transom saver won't give - it's going to be pushing or yanking on that very motor you're trying to protect. No thanks.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by akfishnut View Post
                      Not only that if you run long enough with the engines down you will eventually find that major pothole (or the rutted road) that magically appears before you can miss it - at that point the engines are going to stand a very good chance of hitting the hiway - "like the guy I seen three years ago going to Seward - It caused major damage to the lower unit housing and fin.
                      This scenario can't happen with the Transom saver. It tilts the motor about 2/3 the way up which puts the lower unit well above the trailer frame.

                      We have used one for years and it really does keep the motor supported well. The theory is that a motor "hanging" off the transom will put undue stress on the transom and the transom saver will tilt the motor enough so that the weight is centered over the transom so the pressure is straight down.

                      It will work with a lower prop unit, but some modifications need to be made for a jet unit.
                      AKmud
                      sigpic


                      The porcupine is a peaceful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

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                      • #12
                        Some of you might remember how the whole stern of my last boat was tearing off. The motor support was mentioned by a friend of mine who swears by them, but when I brought that up to the dealer and manufacturer, both said no. They said the motor should only be trailered with the motor locked in the down position. I am not saying that is the right answer, or the only answer, but both were very adamant about it. The damage my boat took was on the water, not the trailer. I inspect my boats very carefully prior to launch and after. The second time my hull failed happened on the water. The first time I imagine was the same, but I canít swear to that.

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                        • #13
                          I installed one on an 18' Lowe with a 140 hp Suzuki two stroke jet. That engine was cracking my transom while under tow. All of our roads are gravel. I repaired the transom and installed a transom saver from either Cabelas or Bass pro, can't remember. It solved my problem for the next 10+ years I used that boat. I wouldn't trailer an outboard without one.

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                          • #14
                            trailer sway not a concern

                            If the trailer and boat DO wobble out of sink w/ some attachment between the lower unit and the trailer, I think all that will happen is the motor will go up and down in its normal path. What else can it do (if it is secured to the trailer)? Can't dance, and I don't see how a "pipe" can apply any lateral deflection to anything attached to either end; maybe I need to sleep??? I am assuming that any appreciable torquing of the trailer will be about its mid line, in line w/ the motor; maybe a bad assumption. My outboard is a couple inches, + or -, of the pavement when it is down all the way; it would not make it 2 miles without being raised and supported. If anyone wants to raise their motor and rest it on that funny little temporary piece of sheet metal support, go for it; but not my motor, thank you. Mine came from Mass that way, and when I called the supplier and raised hell about that (and several other amateur issues) I got a lot of apologies. Too, Honda cust serv, FWIW, said "under no circumstances should a motor be transported by (that funny little MF support)". WAY to much weight at a distance on that little hummer. The inertial load when you hit a bump is pretty tough, and my gut winces when I think of that. Whatever cracks your cookies, though.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by spoiled one View Post
                              I suspect that there is much more force exerted on the transom while under power than that is experienced under normal trailering circumstances. One of these might help relieve the stress from the hydrolic rams: http://www.m-ywedge.com/

                              I just use a couple of 4x4's cut to fit.
                              This unit looks like the "cats meow" "pajamas", "*****" or whatever else you might want to call it....!
                              Anyone ever try one out, I dont see a reason it wouldnt work like a champ!!
                              He who know nothing, still knows nothing

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