Dph-a/d4 225

[kodiakcombo]

Had a D4 225 with a DPH-A put in my seasport, I had a strange vibration just as I bumped the throttle from idle, I turned around right there in the harbor and tied back up. I shifted at and throttled up and the vibrations was internitant. Can you guess what it was? the drive and engine have 883 hrs on it and I run 68 miles with a load 4000# one way some times.

[AK2AZ]

Motor mount
u-joint
bent prop
line around prop shaft

??????????????

[kodiakcombo]

bearing fell apart

The bearing where the shaft goes from outdrive thru tansom shield spilled its guts, mechanic says I should not have water in bilge or this can wear the bearing out. FYI

[potbuilder]

The bearing where the shaft goes from outdrive thru tansom shield spilled its guts, mechanic says I should not have water in bilge or this can wear the bearing out. FYI

On my bell housing i installed a grease jerk where volvo only puts a plug:confused: this way i can grease that bearing but if that bearing puked i don;t see how you could get water in the bilge through it??? and even then i don't think water would get into the bilge through it?? you'd have to have a hole in the rubber boot that covers the u-joints. Are you sure water is not coming in through the steering arm??? on the top of the transom shield, that's if its like the older style volvo's??
800+ hours and this type of trouble?? i do know that the u-joint assembly is about $850.00 i'd hate to replace that every 1000 hours !!! volvo and there prices suck

[kodiakcombo]

water in bilge is bad

I still have a hard time believing that water in the bilge would corrode a bearing, the booth did have water in it, and the mechanic thought it was from inside the bilge. It is a new package D4/DPH-A

[potbuilder]

I still have a hard time believing that water in the bilge would corrode a bearing, the booth did have water in it, and the mechanic thought it was from inside the bilge. It is a new package D4/DPH-A

Ask him how water in the bilge can go uphill and get to a outside bellows :confused: Or am i not picturing this correctly?? I could see the bearing rusting if the flywheel was throwing water up at it but the water would have to be pretty deep inside the boat. Could it be the bearing just on the inside from the u joints rusting and puking if the bellows had a hole in it and let water in but then the water should be in the drive oil also.
For the life of me i can't see why so many boats in Alaska have outdrives, they are nothing but trouble. If a ever build another boat its going to be a inboard.
Rig i used to have back when i lobstered

[Big Jim]

good point about H20 in drive...

can you put the boat on a trailer and check the outdrive oil for water contamination? Probably have to pull the boat anyways to change the bellows? Sounds like that zerk fitting is a worthwhile item & pretty easy to install.
Jim
Good point about outdrives Steve; I mean, when's the last time you've heard someone having trouble with the lower unit on their OB's? The flip side of that I suppose is that no outboard pushing over 200 hp on Kodiak's boat is going to get the fuel numbers of a diesel I/O? I do see your point on having a inboard/straight shaft on a bigger boat. I decked on CI gillnetter (34' Ohima w/single 3208 Cat turbo) for a few years; that boat's been on the same engine/trans package since the late 80's, not sure how many thousands of hours are on that setup (no rebuilds of engine or trans), and we're talking some serious weight with a loaded hold and bucking CI tides.

[Salt Chukar]

Water in the bilge?

Kodiak are you saying that this was caused from water being in the bilge and splashing around. Where did the water come from?
Your bilge should be dry. I have a D4 260 and it was leaking water into the bilge. A closer inspection determined that the transom plate was not properly tightened during the install. The grease zerk that potbuilder talks about sounds good, but we may not have that option because our outdrives are different. I'm not saying it can't be done but you may have to drill and tap one in.
I would like to hear your fuel consumption #'s

Chuck

[kodiakcombo]

washing bilge out

I get deck wash down into the bilge from hosing off the deck with my deck wash, I pump it out every day I do that. My feul consup is super, at 2450 doing 18 knots I'm burning 4.5, 5.0 gal. an hour.

[Salt Chukar]

Bilge water

What are your plans to keep this water problem from happening again?

What size props are you runnining? and how heavy is your boat?

Chuck

[kodiakcombo]

26 coho xl

I'd say this boat is 6000# light and about 9000#s heavy. dont recall the size of props, I just gave the weight and hull design to Scott with Scotts Diesel in Kodiak and the package was installed in Kodiak last Feb. I reach 3500 RPM when loaded with fuel 33knts.

I plan to get a small bilge pump and install it next to the transom, I have one in front of the engine with an automatic float switch, but water sits back near transom.

[dtol]

Props too big.

If you can't reach recommended RPMs at WOTwhen loaded, your prop is too big. This means that it is lugging and working too hard, even at cruise RPMs. You should be able to reach 3600 RPMs to 3650 RPMs at WOT. Its about making life easy for your engine that makes for a long engine life. It shouldn't be about top speed.

The dealer ordered My Volvo D4 300hp with G6 props and now I have G3 props on it. I gave up about a mile per hour at cruise speeds, but, it will now haul what ever load I put in it without stressing the engine. We also tested G4s but couldn't quite get to 3600rpms with a moderate load.

With the G3s I was able to get about 3680 rpms at WOT with 2 people and a quarter tank of fuel. It should be just right rigged out for cruising or with a load of people going fishing. Fully loaded my boat could reach 10000 to 11000lbs. My numbers are on the GC sight in the GPH thread.

[potbuilder]

If you can't reach recommended RPMs at WOTwhen loaded, your prop is too big. This means that it is lugging and working too hard, even at cruise RPMs. You should be able to reach 3600 RPMs to 3650 RPMs at WOT. Its about making life easy for your engine that makes for a long engine life. It shouldn't be about top speed.

The dealer ordered My Volvo D4 300hp with G6 props and now I have G3 props on it. I gave up about a mile per hour at cruise speeds, but, it will now haul what ever load I put in it without stressing the engine. We also tested G4s but couldn't quite get to 3600rpms with a moderate load.

With the G3s I was able to get about 3680 rpms at WOT with 2 people and a quarter tank of fuel. It should be just right rigged out for cruising or with a load of people going fishing. Fully loaded my boat could reach 10000 to 11000lbs. My numbers are on the GC sight in the GPH thread.

You need a pyro on that thing, its the only way your gonna know how hard that engine is working. With my engine i always had plenty of rpms but with a load of fish aboard the pyro just kept climbing higher & higher, once i opened up the exhaust to 4" & went with the verna lift it made a world of differance of how high the pyro temps went, they stay a lot lower with the bigger exhaust & muffler.
With aluminum props i ran A-4's( 4 blade & 3 blade) i could even get by with 5's but not good with a load aboard, now i have C-4's(3 blades on both props) stainless and they have worked great with both decent criuse speed and with a load aboard, my drive has a 1.98 to 1 ratio.
I wouldn't believe any boat or motor(especialy volvo) salesman about how a person should run a boat, all most of them want to do is sell you another boat or motor when the one you have wears out way too soon.:mad:

GET A PYRO if you want that engine to last.