Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2008-2009 Suzuki DF 9.9

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    The tell tale is just a plastic fitting. Remove the hose from the fitting, start it up and if it spits water out of the hose, then ream out the fitting and call it fixed.

    Seeing that its a used motor, and there's an indication that the water pump might be faulty, I'd replace it regardless.

    Comment


    • #17
      it as a kicker/get home motor on a jet boat in the salt
      Garyak,

      When sea water evaporates it leaves salt deposits. You kicker was run in the salt. If it was not flushed with fresh water after running in salt water, then you have salt deposits in the cooling chambers in the motor. These can then travel through the cooling system when water is run through the engine and potential clog small openings such as the water pump indicator hose, end nipple, etc. The Yamaha's that I have run will normally have this problem in either the hose or the nipple at the end of the hose. I have had salt crystals come out of the water pump indicator after I have cleaned out the nipple end with a small plastic tie wrap.

      Is there a high temperature alarm on the kicker? If so and the alarm has not sounded when you have run the motor, then you have an obstruction somewhere in the water pump indicator route in the engine.

      Doug

      Comment


      • #18
        So, here's the latest. Talked to the service mgr. @ Marita's. He said these units don't flush well in a tank for a couple reasons: 1. The exhaust aerates the water immediately adjacent to the intake enough that water pump is basically in a state of cavitation, and thusly doesn't get a grip on the bubbly water. 2. He said there were also a couple more intakes further up inside the cowling that usually don't get submerged when being run in a tank...rendering them as additional air suckers. I do not see these extra "ports" depicted on my crummy downloaded manual...but that's what the man said. I bought the screw in flushing adapter that fits just above and in front of the anticavitation plate and right on top of the water intake. A forum member on another site emailed me that in order for this screw in flusher to work that I'd have to duct tape the water intake closed so the water would be forced up the tube. He was correct...when not taped, all the water just dumps out the intake. So, with flusher and tape in place, I turned on the water and it starts flowing out of the telltale port in the side of the block. I start the engine and after a few minutes the thermostat opens and the water coming out of the tell tale port warms up indicating that I'm getting circulation through the water jacket. I ran it for about 12 minutes with no temperature change in the warm water. That suggests consistent circulation to me. Then I get an email from another guy that said there is a seal/gasket or some such thing at the base of the water tube and that if it is damaged or missing that none of it will work the way it should. Makes sense to me. All I have really proved at this point is that I can force circulation through the block if I tape the intake shut. As suggested before since the unit is new to me it would be a good move to replace the water pump and while at it I'll check out this water tube business as well.

        Comment


        • #19
          Quote from AKExplore: "Is there a high temperature alarm on the kicker? If so and the alarm has not sounded when you have run the motor, then you have an obstruction somewhere in the water pump indicator route in the engine."

          I really don't know if there is an overheat alarm. Since I was pretty sure I wasn't getting circulation I only ran it for a couple minutes at a time to avoid over heating so I doubt I'd have set it off even if one was present and functioning. When I turn the key on prior to starting, I get a tone until started. When checking the emergency lanyard I get the same tone when I yank it to kill the engine. I expect that is a safety device so you don't walk off with the key on and drain the battery.

          Comment


          • #20
            I ran that exact same motor for a few years, and I never had a problem running it in a tank (old kitchen trash can) and water spitting from the tell tale with no worries.

            So it won't pump water when running in a tank, but you can force water through the block with the flushing port....sure sounds like a water pump problem to me.

            Comment


            • #21
              Quote from Frostbitten: "I ran that exact same motor for a few years, and I never had a problem running it in a tank (old kitchen trash can) and water spitting from the tell tale with no worries."

              When you say "spitting", do you mean a droplet now and then or a steady stream? Either way, going to open it up tomorrow and check things out.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Garyak View Post
                Quote from Frostbitten: "I ran that exact same motor for a few years, and I never had a problem running it in a tank (old kitchen trash can) and water spitting from the tell tale with no worries."

                When you say "spitting", do you mean a droplet now and then or a steady stream? Either way, going to open it up tomorrow and check things out.
                Steady stream...worked as advertised. Pop that lower unit off and replace the water pump. It's very easy to do, probably take you an hour and a half max.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by AKExplore View Post
                  Garyak,

                  When sea water evaporates it leaves salt deposits. You kicker was run in the salt. If it was not flushed with fresh water after running in salt water, then you have salt deposits in the cooling chambers in the motor. These can then travel through the cooling system when water is run through the engine and potential clog small openings such as the water pump indicator hose, end nipple, etc. The Yamaha's that I have run will normally have this problem in either the hose or the nipple at the end of the hose. I have had salt crystals come out of the water pump indicator after I have cleaned out the nipple end with a small plastic tie wrap.

                  Is there a high temperature alarm on the kicker? If so and the alarm has not sounded when you have run the motor, then you have an obstruction somewhere in the water pump indicator route in the engine.

                  Doug
                  you hit the nail on the head. i have an 8 hp Suzuki for a kicker and had the same problem, 285.00 later it was flushed cleaned new water pump and works like a champ. now when i get out of the salt the first place i go is to a fresh water lake/river back the boat in fire both the main and kicker and let them run for a while. this will clean the pump and the kicker. my Suzuki does not accept the "ear muff" type water supply for flushing so its a barrel or the lake. have not had a problem since

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Yeah just have the impeller replaced and easily eliminate that factor. Should do it every so often anyway depending on use.
                    I replace mine on a twin f-100 setup every season but I rack up about 900 hrs roughly a year and can tell when they start wearing out, plus the boat is usually in the harbor year the year-round. It's also a good chance to replace prop seals and inspect gear shaft at the same time if need be.
                    Local mechanic told me they had to replace the shaft that drives the lower unit because the owner never pulled his lower unit off to change impeller or inspect anything in the lower unit; apparently when boats sit year after year unused thru the winter the seals eventually dry out and actually will groove the shaft and you won't know it at all because there's not a tell tale giveaway sign that something is amiss. I believe they found the problem because the motor was making a slight rattling sound at idle and they couldn't find anything wrong with the powerhead.
                    A lot of extra info here I know but figure it's worth passing along as it's easily avoidable with an annual inspection.
                    PS--- the Hondas I had on another boat wouldn't pee water until motors where warm, sometimes 15 or so minutes after a high idle in hrs harbor (aka winter in Whittier, 10 degree temp)
                    Check out Quickwater Adventure water taxi/transport services: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Quick...37553606260978

                    Comment

                    Footer Adsense

                    Collapse
                    Working...
                    X