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opinions on motor size

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  • #16

    I cannot find any info on this rockerhopper thingy.


    • #17
      re: Rockhopper

      I got mine directly from the maker in Minn. ...I believe his website is's stocks the Rockhopper for OMC type motors but not for my Yamaha, so I contacted the maker and for the list price he made one for me that perfectly fits my motor. It protects the lowerend and especially the prop from logs, rocks, etc. Excellant investment...No need for a stainless prop ...aluminum ones don't suffer abuse, although I still carry a spare...just in case....By the way, 2 stroke motors are about 20 lbs lighter than 4 strokes of the same power, i.e. better trim on the canoe...and my Yamaha runs on a gas/oil mix of 100 to 1, and is very quiet....


      • #18
        name of some rivers

        hi again was curious about some of the waterways everyone has traveled, anyone go up north? I am leaning towards and 8 hourse power 4 stroke, kind of fits my price range and if i have to make multiple trips to pack out animal or gear, well beats walking right?
        one plan i would like to venture is up inthe north slope taking it up the smaller waterways out past the 5 mile. I heard good things about the iversack has anyone been on it with there canoe? the jim rivers, and those rivers in area 24 to many to name.
        i do alot of planning here in iraq, looking at topo's just curious if any of them are fesiable and safe. any input would be greatly appreciated. thanks


        • #19
          Rock Hopper

          Cabelars did have what I think you are looking don't know if they still have them, they go on the bottom of the motor to help potect the gear box from the rocks when they jump up to kiss it, I do have a an extra one made out of stainless steel if any some would like to talk about it ,it bolts to the caveration plate, comes down the leading edge of the gear box PM me you you want a photo SID


          • #20
            I have a dolefin on my outboard. It does not look like a rock hopper would work with the dolefin. I have never hit a rock with my outboard, I have hit some underwater weed beds though.

            Alaskacanoe, I do have the cargo version. Its a very stable canoe that two people can stand up and fish in. I have loaded this canoe up to the edges with two people, a full gas tank, outboard, and gear and gone up slow moving creeks without a hitch the entire trip. It also has a drain plug on the bottom of the canoe, which is nice at times. Eventhough its 16.5' long its light enough to where I can load the canoe in the bed of my truck by myself. I really like this canoe and I have put many many miles on it and caught plenty of fish from it.

            But with that said if I could do it all over again I would go with a 12 or 14' jon boat or maybe a small sea nymph on a trailer with an outboard. The reason being is that either one of those boats would be more stable than the Osage canoe. The only time I would see a canoe beneficial compared to the other boats I listed is if I was hauling the boat over land. I could easily haul my canoe over dry ground if need be, any other boat would be quite the task. The jon boat or sea nymph would excel in most other situations, imo.
            Last edited by Water_Gremlin; 10-28-2006, 21:05.


            • #21
              Dol Fin

              As I Run The Little Willow From Bridge Down An Back Up Quite A Few Times As Well As The Big Willow, Where I Hit Rocks Is When I Go Down The Tyone River To The Big Sue, The First 5 Miles Is Heck On Props An Gear Boxes When I Run Shallow Streems The Water Pump Takes A Beating Have Melted A Few In My Time,
              As For Puting A Dol Fin In A Small Motor Less Than 25 Hp With A Gard You Would Have To Mod The Fin As The Rock Hopper Bolts To The Cavition Plate [bottom Or Top] You Select


              • #22
                I have a 19' Grumman with a 2 strk. 15hp Evin. and a lift made supposedly by Compeaus some yrs back. All I can say is when I am 3/4 throttle and more I have a tremendous amount of water racing in where I sit

                Figuring a way to build out the sides of the rear about 3-4 ft. foward and come back with a flair. Just to much motor presently, wants to pull the stern down and the bow to the stars.

                9 hp sounds ideal. Those 4 strokes will be quieter than a 2 stroke an have plenty of thrust. Never could get on step.


                • #23

                  The Rockhopper bolts to the underside of the anti-cavitation plate, while the Stingray hydrofoil bolts to the conflict.
                  A "skirt" that attaches both to the hull and the top bar of the lift...and rises and falls with the lift, closing in the gap on the sides and the rear will go far to keep water from splashing in...also about 200# in the front end of a Grumman - either rocks or an appropriate passenger will assist in keeping the front end from rising quite as much. Additionally, a hydrofoil may be of help.


                  • #24
                    post script...

                    I have no trouble getting my 19' Grumman on step where appropriate...but the boat has to have the right trim....I'm able peak at 16.5mph (GPS) without shipping any water....The Rockhopper eliminates the problem of prop and lower end the motor with the tilt unlocked and when the guard contacts an obstacle, it will ride up and over - by tilting - until it is clear, and then return to its drive position....With the lift lowered, an obstacle will additionally cause the motor to rise on the lift....
                    I'm a fan of Japanese motors, hence my Yamaha 15 2stroke....On a 170 mile river trip in August - mostly at speed - it used 16 gallons of fuel...good economy by my standards...weighs 79# - Honda 9.9 short shaft weighs 92# - Honda 15 short shaft weighs 101#... since trim on a canoe is important that's a big factor to me ... further my 2005 Yamaha uses 1(one) oz. of oil per 100 oz. of 170 miles, it burned about 2.5 oz. of oil....I'm a Honda fan and currently own Honda fourwheelers and generator, but for the reasons above, for my canoe I think the Yam. better suited my needs...and it's quite quiet, too...I have been able to use all the power it produces, without cowboying.


                    • #25
                      have bolted on a dolefin I believe it was on the cavitation plate and that aids in rear lift. The "skirt" is something that needs to be developed. I have used mine in short runs of 120mi. roundtrip and is remarkable in fuel usage. I too use a GPS. Had my brother in law up front weighing at 190# plus additional 15gal. behind and gear but still had "bow-up"--was thinking of loading him up with some of the gravel bars in our run.

                      Any more I use it for portages in fall moose hunting. Keep it a midrange speeds with a load or....less. Just a fine alum. canoe period. I did bolt on umhw strips thruought the length of the hull--works good-no leaks to this day. Tow it either alongside my alweld or behind to get to sites of use.

                      Any ideas on a "skirt"?



                      • #26
                        I am not expert on thesr but for my 2 cents 19 Gruman with a lift 10/15 horse 2 cycle is the way to go, as it will go very slow or still go fast, can go a long way on a 6 gal tank what ever motor you put on it is still weight on the back end the 4 cycle is about 30 % more than the 2 cycle what ever you do don't put it on the side this makes it real tippey an when you hit a sweeper look out, the lift is so the motor dont get to far below the boat, with a lift an going slow you can go in real shallow water like 6/8 inches if not less on the 19 foot Gruman when you put runners on the bottom it realey helps to potect the bottom like I have 3 on both sides [6 total ] an when you go down stream you will need the power to stay away from the sweeper around the bend, that is my 2 cents, if you would like to see the runners I will post or PM them to you good luck, Sid


                        • #27
                          lifts...hydofoils...runners...and skirts....

                          Griz106...It's likely your lift may have been made by the Fairbanksian as mine....I'll try to give a description of my "skirt" (I'll try to take some pictures and download them, if I can figure out how....)

                          With the lift handle all the way down to the floor, measure the length of lift from just behind the forward attachment bracket back to the front of the motor mount block - approx. 48"...then from the top of the lift, again right behind the forward mount bracket measure vertically down to a point 4" below the gunwale and mark the point and measure...from that point measure to stern, again at a point 4" below the gunwale.... measure from that point up to to the top of the tube where it welds to the mount-block....That should give you the outline of the dimensions of a triangle with the tip cut off....Add 3 or 4 inches to the width of the sides to allow for a top flap to wrap around those long tubes and secure with industrial grade velcro....a slot will need to be cut to allow the hook - that secures the lift handle - thru....the rear of the pattern is made by measuring the widlth 4" below the gunwales from side to side, and the same for the top....I added enough to the top of the rear rectangle to fold over and make a sewn sleeve to put a short fiberglass rod in and run over the top of the side tubes to keep the rear panel from sagging....Used 2" industrial velcro I got at Sam's Club (20' for $16)...self adhesive ... sewn around the bottom hem...cleaned the sdes of the canoe for the velcro with acetone ...carefully, and applied the appropriate velcro.... The material I used, I believe is called Shelterite - a tough vinyl coated fabric ...22 oz./sq. yard...with double seams, its both wtertight and durable...used by truckers for tarps on loads on the Haul Road....I use it for sled beds on lightweight dog sleds...Pretty long answer but shorter than me trying to figure out how to down load a photo tonight.

                          I'd like to see a picture of the runners on your canoe, Sid...they sound like a good idea.

                          I've had alot of fun with my canoe....I've a pair of the pontoons that Cabela's sells for it that I use when I'm fishing and remove - easy to do -before moving....then I can stand up to cast, etc.

                          My only problem is trying to lock the lift lowered so my Stingray hydrofoil, at speed, doesn't just raise the motor on the lift, but raises the stern....Another day, I suspect.


                          • #28

                            The Grumman manufactures have down as HP limits as 5 hp.
                            It looks like some of you may be mounting Turbo's on your outboards next.
                            I would like to see how fast you go with 15 hp on these boats.?
                            has any of you had problems with going to fast other than keeping the canoe level? Any wrecks you wanna tell us about?
                            I think the idea of the Sponsons is a great idea. I have a couple of sets I keep for my rental fleet incase I have some very worried customers . I can adjust how much of the sponson sets near the water so it doesn't even touch the water surface until it is almost too late. and then it catches you. This would work good with power so they would not be creating drag as you motor along, but if it starts getting a little Western, you have the secondary stablizer that kicks in before you take on water or tip over..
                            When you come to a fork in the trail, take it!

                            Rentals for Canoes, Kayaks, Rafts, boats serving the Kenai canoe trail system and the Kenai river for over 15 years.


                            • #29

                              the sponcers are good in a lake or a very large river but most of the rivers I run, I don't like them as when you come down a stream an you turn a bend an there is a sweeper an it goes right along the side of the canoe the same with a side mount motor great on lakes or very large rivers but most of the rivers in South central it would be bad news I don't recall but I run my Canoe standing up I can see over the bow I do set down when the motor stops or the river looks real bad but 98% of the time I stand up to run Sid


                              • #30
                                outriggers...15 horse...and speed....

                                The outriggers I use are foam floats that are suspended from alum. arms that are inserted into an alum. fixture that clamps to the gunwales, putting the floats over 6' apart and very stable...I tried using them while underway, but they got me too wet....I think the boat doesn't need them underway....but they're great for fishing or, perhaps, if you're going to shoot from the canoe....check Cabela's online to see what they look like.... as Sid said, they get in the way in the places where these canoes really excell....

                                Haven't had any requires being judicious with the throttle and using good judgement....We don't go 16mph all the time...the 15 horse can creep around at the slowest speeds in a quiet and miserly fashion...the thought that I have too much power never crossed my mind.

                                Standing while driving...I assume you too are using an articulated 50" tiller extension...I stand or sit right behind the rear seat is the 6 gallon bucket I stuff my sleeping bag in (also my camp seat)...I can see over the bow fine, but my 210#...6'4" partner/bow ballast... well - I have to look around him....standing is fine but I don't find it comfortable at bucket seat seems more stable and relaxing then....

                                Alaskacanoe...These canoes rigged with 10 to 15 horse motors, lifts, skirting, Rockhopper guards, tiller extensions, plastic runners and so on, are inappropriate for a rental fleet or novices...they are adaptations of
                                an existing design to do things it was never really meant to do...they are adapted for our unique Alaskan conditions and much the same way Piper SuperCubs have been modified...wing extensions, custom flaps, bigger engines, tundra tires, etc to do things the designers never taking off in 50 feet, become today's premier Alaskan bush plane....

                                And I don't have to pull a trailer - it rides atop my suits me.


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