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"Mystery Tank" and 12 hp copperhead

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  • "Mystery Tank" and 12 hp copperhead

    I figured this will be a better match for the Copperhead 12hp. The only problem is the transom was rotted. Now begins another money-sucking project so that I can finally get out on the water. So far I've cut the entire transom off the back of the boat and will be glassing in two pieces of 3/4 birch laminate with supports, cutting out all of the existing floor strengtheners, the gunwales and the keels for a complete restoration. Add in aluminum c-channel reinforced strips of UHMW all supposed to be done in 4 days. I talked to Gill yesterday and he n Betsy are getting a laugh out of this "over power" dilemma. He said he's getting reports that his motor is oftentimes "smoking" the mud buddy mini 23 hp. He definitely did his homework about gearing, and prop diameter on top of a lightweight platform. I'll post pictures of the project starting tonight. This would be one stressful situation if I didn't enjoy working on canoes as much as I do. Back to the sawzall, grinder, and wire brushes..............

  • #2
    Are you going to install one of you trick adjustable lifts while you're at it?


    • #3
      Forgot to bring the camera but I managed to get a lot of work done. FamilyMan stopped by and revived my motivation with a beer and a visit. I then cut out the transom with a sawzall, cut out the floor strengtheners with a cutting wheel (3 16 ft. hardwood strips that were glassed in), cut off the keel, cut off all four gunwales, and removed the metal bow protection strip. Finally......I cut out the the glassed-in flotation cavity. I now have removed about 130 lbs. of waterlogged and partially rotten wood. All I have is a bare hull that needs to be stripped of all inner-hull paint and prepped for new floor strengtheners to be glassed in along with a new transom. I'll be ripping down birch laminate strips that will be glued together into four 18 ft. long pieces. These will be stained and varnished completely before they go on the boat. I'll use carriage bolts and counter sunk nylock nuts the whole way round. Lotta last minute work to try and get on the water.

      The laminate is in perfect condition except for some rough and worn areas where the gunwales sat against the laminate while rotting for many years. These areas will be wire brushed and filled in with a West System 403 filler recipe with a fast-set hardner. Once the area is once again smooth, 6 0z/6 in. fiberglass tape will be glassed over the sides of the gunwale areas and painted prior to putting on the new "el cheapo" gunwales.


      • #4
        So we will see the finished product next week
        Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you


        • #5
          Mainer, if I know you, you'll make this ancient canoe into a craft that all will rightfully envy. Stable, high freeboard, hauls a ton (OK, 2?) and even is pretty to look at. Pictures, man, pictures! Before you depart to interior Alaska-parts-unknown.


          • #6
            If you Google "Scott freighter canoes", one of the very first results is for our canoeing forum, and most likely an entry by mainer_in_alaska. I don't think there is another forum that covers powered canoes as intensively as does ours.

            Many of us are awaiting pictures of mainer's work, and to hear the testing results of the 12 hp Copperhead on his boat. So, mainer, throw us a bone, when you have a chance.


            • #7
              The canoe project has been more work than expected but I'm going at a leisurely pace because's summer. I went through two containers of 403 filler, a gallon of west epoxy, and 3 yds. of 6oz s-glass. Today I'm taking a break. The transom is finally glassed in with a diagonal brace to the floor and a bunch of floor stengtheners have been glued in with thickened epoxy. They will be glassed in soon with 6in. fiberglass tape and maybe I can finally get out of here for the summer! I dropped the transom down to 16 in. and ran a 14 degree transom angle. one more layer of filler on the transom corners to smooth up the rough edges and the transom will be ready for paint. 3/8" thick uhmw runners along the bottom of the boat and it should hold up pretty well to shallow water abuse. I'll post more pictures before I take off. I havent had a camera handy during the progress but I did manage a phone picture here n there. I'll post a picture of the boat/trailer/copperhead motor package when she's ready.
              Attached Files


              • #8
                Mainer ... Glad to hear from you. Thought you might have been overcome by the fumes off the West Systems. Looking forward to the pictures and report on your Copperhead experiment.

                Your hull bracing should eliminate any "oil canning." Good work.


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rick View Post
                  Your hull bracing should eliminate any "oil canning." Good work.
                  That hull on his "tank" is pretty tough to begin with; this is not his new Cargo.

                  Wider than my Albany, and with a larger (and now brand new) transom.

                  Nice work. Great pictures (+1). Post more before you're out'a here.


                  • #10
                    UHMW runners how are you holding them on bolts ,rivits ,glue ? if you bolted them on, what type of bolt's are you using


                    • #11
                      went over to the fastener store and picked up elevator bolts. They are wide/flat/low profile and tough. They are twice as wide as a carriage bolt, and three times lower profile. They can be counter sunk by making a special bit from a 1.25" paddle bit. you grind down the two cutter teeth on the ends, and notch it to one inch diameter with a fine cutting then can counter sink these nice wide bolts right into the umhw every eight inches. of course a nice thick bed of 100% silicone is the only thing that will work with UMHW along with the bolts. It'll be tough and I'll post pictures. This canoe carries it's strength on the inside of the hull and will have NO KEELS......just UHMW strips along the hull.


                      • #12
                        what type of silcone will stick to UHMW or is it just to make it water proff not to glue it down ????


                        • #13
                          Do you have an estimate of the likely weight of your finished "tank"?


                          • #14
                            I'm guessing the weight to be 200-225lbs. It might be closer to 200 because I've removed a bunch of water-logged wood. The old transom was very heavy. The canoe isn't light to begin with being constructed of 24oz roving woven and epoxy. This stuff is heavy but tough as nails when used with epoxy. The canoe may be a bit heavier than a Scott Albany which is made of a lighter fiberglass matt and polyester resin. The silicone will mildly adhere to the UHMW but nothing too great. It'll simply provide the water-proof barrier needed though and the elevator bolts will take care of the rest. Tomorrow will be a full day of work as I took off a couple rainy days while having to purchase a darned boat trailer, and more epoxy, filler, and other supplies to finally finish the job. Might be ready for oil based paint at the end of the day and I'll snap a picture. Hopefully Boudarc, FamilyMan n I can go take it for a test run down Rabbit Slough before I leave.


                            • #15
                              Mainer's Mystery Tank is now completed and tested out - it works! Part 1 of 2

                              Wish I could have gone on the inaugural cruise, but I had a houseguest from out of town and a grill full of bbq chicken when the call came to come.

                              So instead Mainer stopped by after the test drive; he has completed his needed modifications to the "mystery tank" canoe. It's solid and a worthy craft, and can turn on a dime. Very stable, not tippy. Very shallow water-able. He even dropped his prop into some solid earth and it launched him off of where he had hi-centered, back into the H2O.

                              And he tested the UHMW strips by driving over some guys dead dock supports (steel) that were mostly submerged; barely a scratch and the craft glided right over and beyond without any damage.

                              After feeding him I asked if he wanted some pictures posted of his work and he said yes post'm here to this thread, so here they are.

                              Work done: (sorry if this isn't a complete description) Mainer cut the original transom completely off the canoe because it was rotted, and built a completely new one on; it looked to be about 2" thick. New gunnels. Wow, I've never seen such stout gunnels as he's built. My Scott has some stout gunnels; Mainer's are stouter. UHMW strips applied to underside, attached with countersunk (no bolt protrudes) elevator bolts, and siliconed in; note that these strips also come somewhat up the back of the transom.

                              It's a very large and proud craft:

                              Here's the view from the stern of the new transom he built, with his Copperhead attached. Notice the UHMW strips coming up from the bottom up the transom a few inches:

                              He says to make sure you put a tie-down "here" (where his finger is pointing) while trailering:

                              More pics next post.


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