Tip for Hudson Bay/ surface drive
It seems like several people are putting surface drives on hudson bay's.
Don't forget to mark and drill out a hole in the mounting bracket of the surface
drive.It covers the drain hole in the splash tray and will allow no draining. Also,
I mounted my motor 1 inch left of center per manufacturers recommendation.
One and a half might be even better. Helps counteract torque and the drivers
weight to keep the boat level.
kandik ... Do you think that the transom could do with some reinforcement due to the weight and power of the MudBuddy?
Rick / I don't really think it needs any reinforcement.I just took it out on a 40 mile run tuesday and was impressed
as always with how solid it seems. Both the boat and the motor. The transom area has so many curved,complex angles
and a splash tray, it seems really strong. Stronger I think than if it had a simpler design. The only concern I had was
trailering the rig with motor on. As I mentioned in another thread , I solved that problem by designing a system that
transfered the weight of the motor to the trailer. I don't think removing the motor each time is at all practical unless
you're an accomplished power lifter or are careless with your back. Also, I hardily advise putting kevlar felt strips on
all 3 keels and a sacrificial skid plate at the extreme stern before getting carried away on rocky rivers. I wish I had.
I'm starting the project tomorrow. It's expensive. The epoxy resin and hardener @ fairbanks paint and glass is pushing
500$ for 2 gallons. Pat at scott canoe says it will probably take this much. Frankly, I think the canoe should come
standard with the strips.I have to admit I've abused the hull on rocky rivers and considering it's been incredibly tough.
I've torn the gel coat off about 2 feet of the center keel but the fiberglass is fine. And I don't think that would have
happened with the kevlar strips. The main area subject to damage[by far] is where the flat bottom of the stern makes
the turn vertically up to the gunwales. Another words, the bottom of the stem of the wineglass stern. This is to be
expected since all the weight of the motor and the driver is there. I plan to epoxy kevlar to the entire area where the
90 degree turn is at the stern. I'll keep you posted.
Other gripes I have are: the standard tiller arm on the M.B. is too short. I plan to modify it. Also, I hate the squeeze
throttle. It wears me out on long trips. I'm thinking of keeping it for technical rivers or lots of stumps,etc. I think I'll add
a lever throttle arm and cable for long hauls and simply change the cable for the correct throttle.
I believe you're about to get a H.B. Good news. I'm extremely happy with my H.B. and the surface drive. And after 35
years as an outdoorsman I'm ruthless about gear that doesn't pass muster.
kandik ... I'm waiting on my passport so I can make my trip to Whitehorse to pickup my HB. Plan on using the Yamaha 15 hp I've been using for the last 8 years for this season, and then buying another motor before next season. Probably a surface drive, although a 20 hp Honda is up for consideration. Trying to gather all the info I can about the MudBuddy and the Copperhead. .... By the way, MB. on their web site offers a remote steering system for their Mini HD series motors, that includes a proper throttle control. .... I wonder if Mr. Klingel has his HB with the 23 hp MB on the water yet. Like to hear his opinion.
Rick, A 15 HP is perfect for the HB.I used them for 15 years on albanys and HB's. Frankly, I guess all of us should be
glad we have any boat /motor combo compared to the wealth of most people in the world. I've heard good things about
the copperhead. Also ,I was gone last summer caring for my mom, but when I talked to John Klingel, he hadn't at that
time had his boat in the water.
kandik - thanks for the report. Please take plenty on pictures to share from before til completion. I'm sure that everyone here would love to see the progress.
tboehm, I'm afraid I'm woefully unqualified to post photos. I don't own a digital camera and wouldn't know
how to post the photos if I did. However , a friend who is qualified will help me with this at some point.
If anyone is putting a surface drive on their scott canoe and the SD covers the drain hole of the splash stray /
I can loan out the one inch carbide steel cutting hole saw I bought from denali industrial in fbks. It's about 40$
and since I'm a carpenter I want be needing it much. If needed,post a message.