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Thread: Toughest Bead Coating

  1. #1

    Default Toughest Bead Coating

    What have you found to be the most durable, toughest clear coat for beads? I have a bunch painted and mottled, just haven't put a final clear coat on them yet. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Member kenaibow fan's Avatar
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    i didn't clear coat mine.......maybe I should????? I just used nail polish and let them dry.

  3. #3
    Member alaskachuck's Avatar
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    I never use any clear coating either
    Grandkids, Making big tough guys hearts melt at first sight

  4. #4

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    Uh oh....maybe I need to go au-natural and no clear coatings. Is it possible the beads pick up more "character" beating bits of paint off on the bottom once in awhile?

  5. #5
    Member DRIFTER_016's Avatar
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    This is a simple answer Softex!!!!!
    Go into World Wide Angler and see the guys and pick up a bottle.
    You can either paint it on or dip.
    I plug the holes with a toothpick tip on one end and whole toothpick on the other, dip and let the excess drip back into the jar then remove the toothpick tip from the one side and stick the other end into a piece of styrofoam to dry. When the stuff firms up nicely remove the toothpick. Don't wait until completely cured as it's really tough stuff.
    I've even painted it on my pike spoons and a bunch of my walleye jigs so their teeth don't chip off the paint.
    The stuff is a little pricy at about $11 a bottle but worth every penny. My steelhead beads take a lot of time to create and without the coating the finish would only last a few fish.


  6. #6

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    Drifter,
    I have and have used Softex, thanks for the idea, I'll start dipping some tonight. If I let them dry up fully with the Softex, I run a razor around the toothpicks for a clean break rather than pulling a bit off, works excellent. I was just thinking there might be a quick rattle can alternative for doing large batches.

  7. #7
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    aqua seal works great. it seems to make the bead almost feel chewy instead of like hard plastic also

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    Member jockomontana's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowcamoman View Post
    I was just thinking there might be a quick rattle can alternative for doing large batches.
    In that case... Krylon makes an Acrylic Clear Coat in spray can in either matte or glossy finish... good stuff, never used it on beads before but I imagine it would work for large batches... try spraying painted beads in a paper bag and shake em, roll out and toothpick to dry..

  9. #9
    Member ak_powder_monkey's Avatar
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    excuse me, this is the fly fishing forum,

    thanks,
    The Bead Police
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

  10. #10

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    AKPM,

    I'm melting these beads onto hooks and putting wraps of hackle on them as well..

  11. #11
    Member ak_powder_monkey's Avatar
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    oh you don't actually need the wrap of hackle for it to be a "fly" and you can lob it with a halibut rod with 80# braid and as long as your weight is more than 18" above it you are "fly fishing"
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

  12. #12

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    I just like that whip of hackle on the bead because it blends in with the 100# dacron. It's a much more natural looking setup that way.

  13. #13
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    NAPA used to have a clear spray on tool handle coating that worked great for a soft protecting, still too much effort for beads when you can mass paint IMO.

    George

  14. #14
    Member muzzyman87's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak_powder_monkey View Post
    excuse me, this is the fly fishing forum,

    thanks,
    The Bead Police
    Quote Originally Posted by snowcamoman View Post
    AKPM,

    I'm melting these beads onto hooks and putting wraps of hackle on them as well..


    Nice!!!!
    I am not against the flippin kenai, since I cannot but suspect it keeps armies of the unworthy from discovering every other stream... ~Paul O'Neil~/~Wyo2AK~

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