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Thread: Neck sizer buttons.

  1. #1
    Moderator stid2677's Avatar
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    Default Neck sizer buttons.

    I was wondering how many reloaders polish their neck sizer buttons???? I started working up some .375 H&H loads the other day and forgot to polish the sizer button on the resizing die I got used from another forum member. I use carbide sizers on all my other dies and didn't think about it until I felt the resistance on the press handle. I do lube the necks but it was still taking much more force than with my other dies. I have always polished all my sizer buttons to reduce friction. I have some to be extremely rough from the factory. I polish the carbide ones too, but they seem to come smoother.

    I removed the stem and chucked it in my drill and put some JB bore paste on a soft cotton rag and spun it to polish it nice and smooth. I cleaned it well and reinstalled it.

    There was a noticeable difference in the force and I can't help but believe that it is easier on the brass.

    Thoughts????

    Steve
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  2. #2
    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    I haven't done it, YET, but your argument, as well as detailed example of how-to, are pretty convincing, Thanks

    I do recognize the friction you mention, that may be excessive.
    Tho I use dry case neck lube with great success, so far, am pretty sure it will be worth Polishing the die button

    Good thread, I'm on it, with mine.

    Have been using an RCBS necksizer for a while, seems pretty smooth actually but can maybe find improvement,
    and a new Redding Necksizer die, just used a few times seems about the same as the RCBS
    neither are carbide, so I have nothing to compare with yet.

    So far Neck sizing for me is the easiest deal imaginable, on Brass,
    compared to FL sizing, I'll never go back
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    neck and FL sizing both have their places - If you use Redding dies you can purchase a carbide expander button for any caliber except .323 (so far) and these DO make a difference

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    Polishing the button can't hurt, but I've never needed to do that.

    My method is to use a Q Tip to lube the inside of the Neck, at the SHOULDER. It works like a charm, it does.

    You just git some lube on the Q Tip and reach in there, and rub it around the inside on the shoulder where it contacts the neck. That's right where the button hits, when it wants to come out.

    Of course, put lube on the inside of the neck too.

    I think probably, lots of people do this, but you don't hear a lot about it. I also, think that some people don't wanna lube the inside of the necks because they don't want to hafta clean it out.

    I've never seen a Loading Manual, that mentions lubing inside the necks except with a Dry Lube of some sort, which IMO, is pretty much a waste of time. I say use REEL Lube, and wipe it out. That, ain't no BEEG DEEL.

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  5. #5
    Member shphtr's Avatar
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    I have always polished any that were not carbide. Unpolished sizer buttons can, if there is sufficient drag, produce a measurable increase in the final length of the prepped case - even with proper lubrication. The next step is Redding Type S dies.
    "Actions speak louder than words - 'nough said"

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    Quote Originally Posted by shphtr View Post
    unpolished sizer buttons can, if there is sufficient drag, produce a measurable increase in the final length of the prepped case - even with proper lubrication.
    NO WAY........

    If the neck is properly lubed as I've described, there won't be sufficient drag. You won't even hear a SQUEAK.

    Smitty of the North
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  7. #7
    Member shphtr's Avatar
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    Depends on the size of the button .... regardless of state of lub. As stated, "IF SUFFICIENT drag, then..."
    "Actions speak louder than words - 'nough said"

  8. #8
    Supporting Member iofthetaiga's Avatar
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    I use Redding dies and have never felt compelled to polish the buttons, but Steve's logic certainly seems valid.
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    I generally polish the buttons on dies that are used on heavy recoiling rifles. My reasoning is a slightly smaller button will help increase the neck tension on the bullet to help hold it in place without using a crimp. Will avoid crimping any bottleneck case if possible as crimping seems to cause other issues.
    Tennessee

  10. #10
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    I only neck size with Redding Bushing Dies so I dont need a button

  11. #11
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I've found all dies work better if you clean them, and polish the die body and the expander button. I put some flitz on a cleaning patch and spin it at high speed from a split rod for the body. For the button I put the decapping assy in the lathe, spin it up and run the patch over it.

    I use lee water based lube for lubing case necks, no squeks and grunts from the expanding button. On my .223, I replaced the expander button with a carbide expander so I don't have to lube the necks. When you're loading 1000's of rounds, saving time by eliminating steps is worth it. I still need to get a 3 way 22 cal trimmer/deburring tool.

  12. #12
    Member shphtr's Avatar
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    I have enjoyed using the 3-way trim/deburr head with 7mm, 30 cal, 338, and 375 - what a time saver!
    "Actions speak louder than words - 'nough said"

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    Yes these things do happen. I have switched over to Hornady "One Shot". It is a spray lube. I put the brass mouth side down and spray them. I then invert them into a similar wooden block and they are now primer down. I spray them again making sure some spray goes into the case mouths. I like this better than the RCBS lube tray or the Imperial Sizing Wax. For inside the neck? I used Imperial Dry Neck Lube on a nylon brush. No more. A few shots of spray upside down and rightside up and that's it.

    It doesn't hurt to polish the neck sizer button or at least check there are no burrs.

    As the full length vs. neck sizing, it depends on the caliber and quarry. For dangerous game I would always full length size. You want that brass cartridge to fit smooth and quick in the chamber. Remember that neck sizing only pushes the shoulder back a few thousandths.
    That cartridge is going to fit a little tighter in the chamber. You don't want any field debri to impede a smooth feeding cycle. Any rounds neck sized usually only fit THAT chamber only. Neck sizing doesn't work the brass as much either. So there is a time and place for each.

  14. #14

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    If I use a button, which I rarely do (bushings are the way to go) I use a carbide and I place a rubber o ring just above it to help diminish runout. It would make sense that keeping buttons clean helps... and One Shot is my friend.

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