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Thread: H110 Loads

  1. #1

    Default H110 Loads

    I just want to get some discussion started about H110. I have loaded it for my 44 mag and recently loaded it for my SP101 in 357. I have noticed that my brass looks milky or almost like it has been cleaned with a soft abrasive cleaner after firing with H110. No other powder I have ever used, "including rifle loads" have ever done this. Has anyone else seen this ? WOW this must be some powerful stuff.

  2. #2
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Yea it's very dirty on your gun and sensitive to low temperature (poor cold ignition) but otherwise a very good powder. W296 is the same thing from the same plant just packaged for Winchester BTW. I hardly use H110/W296 any more, I use and love LilGun and get same fps with less pressure leavening me a cleaner gun and it's not temp sensitive.
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  3. #3

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    I've had good luck with H110/W296. My impression was that it burns very CLEAN. I mean, you can look at the inside of fired brass and it's still shiny, not black with residue like other powders do. (at least none of the others I've tried) I always use a magnum primer with H110, and a good crimp. I've never noticed a milky deposit...maybe you got a bad lot of it.

    Marshall/Ak
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall/Ak View Post
    I've had good luck with H110/W296. My impression was that it burns very CLEAN. I mean, you can look at the inside of fired brass and it's still shiny, not black with residue like other powders do. (at least none of the others I've tried) I always use a magnum primer with H110, and a good crimp. I've never noticed a milky deposit...maybe you got a bad lot of it.

    Marshall/Ak
    Same here. The keys seem to be the primer and crimp. It also pays to stay up near max with it.

  5. #5

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    Well, it's not a deposit left on the brass; it's more like the brass has been under such pressure that it appears distressed. Imagine if you took new brass and rubbed it down with steel wool, a brushed look. I'm a full grain under the max so I'm not really hot. I'm almost out of H110 so I think I will try that LilGun. I've always used mag primers, do I need to use them with LilGun too ?

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    IMHO, H-110 is a great propellent for the heaviest bullets in magnum chamberings. If you're shooting 180's or 200's in your .357, then H-110 is a good propellent. If you're using the lighter bullets, they just don't seem to have enough resistance for H-110 to really get burning. My favorite powder for max loads in the .357 is 2400. Lil gun should also work well, and I'll have to compare it to 2400 this summer when I get back to doing some load work.

    I've fired many pounds of H-110 in various magnum pistol rounds, and don't recall it having a different appearance in the case. I do know H-110 has a heavy coating of deterrent, so it might be that coating that is causing what you are seeing in the brass.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by stormvet View Post
    Well, it's not a deposit left on the brass; it's more like the brass has been under such pressure that it appears distressed. Imagine if you took new brass and rubbed it down with steel wool, a brushed look. I'm a full grain under the max so I'm not really hot. I'm almost out of H110 so I think I will try that LilGun. I've always used mag primers, do I need to use them with LilGun too ?
    I've never seen anything like what you're describing, but I'm not questioning you. Rather I'm just trying to figure out what's going on. Something really sounds not to be right. I've used it for decades in rounds including 22 Hornet, 22 K-Hornet, 218 Bee, 25-20, 256 Winchester, 30 Carbine, 32-20, 357 mag, 357 Max, 357 Herrett, 41 Mag and 44 Mag, and have always been able to find happiness with one load or another.

    As for LilGun, what do the manuals say about primers?

  8. #8
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Yea H110/W296 is a heavy load powder thatís not a good pick for lighter loadings because it can get very iritic. It works best near the top loadings under heavy bullets with a good crimp and the same it true of Lilgun to a lesser extent. Here is the warning from the Hodgdon website about it..

    Reduce H110 and Winchester 296 loads 3% and work up from there. H110 and Winchester 296 if reduced too much will cause inconsistent ignition. In some cases it will lodge a bullet in the barrel, causing a hazardous situation (Barrel Obstruction). This may cause severe personal injury or death to users or bystanders. DO NOT REDUCE H110 LOADS BY MORE THAN 3%.

    Now I donít like it as well (or Lilgun ether) in mid calibers and not at all in small calibers, for me 357 is the bottom of where I will use them and 2400 (and others) is usually a better pick for 357 and smaller revolvers.

    I use mag primers with Lilgun as well as H110/W296 with the exception of 460S&W where I use large rifle which are as hot as mag primers. There are huge differences in primers by brand name, one brand of standard primers can be hotter than anotherís mag primer so to simplify things I try to stick with one brand, for me that is CCI. Best to stick with listed data components and drop down 10% (3% with H110) to start any time you change any component . . . start low and work up.

    The dirty soot from H110/W296 ends up all over the outside of the gun around the gap not inside the case. It does tend to form a soot ring in the chamber at the case end more than other powders but most of the dirt gets on the outside then all over me.

    H110 vs. Lilgun? They are both good powders but both have their issues. We covered the negataves of H110, donít like cold, a bit dirty, donít like itís charge reduced. For Lilgun, it can give more iritic pressures in smaller cases with lighter bullets like 30 carbine, 22 Hornet, 357mag and so on. It causes more barrel heating for some reason. Itís been known to flame cut more in some guns though Iíve never seen it. They are both very good and similar powders but for what I do Llgun is better, for someone else H110 will be better, for 357 down neither is best.
    Andy
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    There seems to be some difference in opinion as to what constitues a "Dirty" powder.

    For me, and my 44 Mag. it's the residue on the outside of the fired cases, that makes for sticky extraction.

    I've tried H and IMR, 4227, and H110, and Universal, and it's always like that.

    I've been meaning to try the Lil Gun, that AD is always talking about.

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    For the H110/ 296 range of powder try a can of VihtaVuori N110. It appears to burn much cleaner and have less muzzle flash than the other powder. I've heard the same experience from others.

    Downside is the cost - stuff is dang expensive. Maybe affordable in something like the .357 Mag but for the .500 I'll only use it for carry loads.
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