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Thread: need help with coyote traps

  1. #1
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    Default need help with coyote traps

    me and my buddy have been tryin to catch us a coyote for a few weeks now... so far no luck.. we are using two bait piles with snares and two piss poles.. should we be putting some sort of scent on our boots .. what kind of lure is most effective for the bait.. we check the traps every two days should we check them less/more.. any help would be awsome.. we are new to this so any input would go a long ways .. thanks

  2. #2
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    58 views and nothin... there has to be someone out there that has a thing or two to share...

  3. #3

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    I have never trapped in the state of Alaska but have caught a few coyotes in my time. They are an extremely smart animal and as much care as you can should be taken not to leave human scent around your sets. I dye and wax my traps to get them scent free and never touch them with bare hands after I start the dyeing process. I use rubber gloves to handle all my traps while setting. The law requires me to check traps every 24 hours but I try to check mine from a distance with binoculars. I try to avoid getting to close to the trap unless i have made a catch or see something wrong at the set. It is a good practice to have a rifle ready when checking traps because lots of times a coyotes mate will be close by if one of them is in a trap. I try to set traps back about nine inches from what I am using to draw the coyotte whether it be dirt hole or urine post or whatever. I also offset traps about 3 inches to the side. A coyotte will almost always work a ste from down wind at about a 45 degree angle. Keep wind direction in mind when setting for them. I hope this helps. GOOD LUCK
    .

  4. #4
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    i use rubber gloves and i boiled my traps in water and baking soda for ten minutes then boiled them in water and spruce for another ten minutes. should that work or do i need to boil them in dye??? as far as lure goes i just got some coyote glands to try ... should that work or do i need somthing else for bait.... thanks for the reply cast iron... i hope its mate is hanging around when i finally get one in my trap...

  5. #5
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    Well it sounds like you are doing things right but, a few questions come to mind, how close are your traps to your bait because the closer you set to the bait the more Leary these dogs get. I usually set no closer than 60 yards and the pee posts further. If I am not catching anything but, the animals are around I will find their pinch point and set out even more snares but, approach their trail in such a way to hide your footsteps and smell if possible, usually approach their trail perpendicularly. I think Cast Iron said a lot of good things in his post that I will not double tap on. Lastly on the footholds are you using wax paper over and under them to prevent freezing foot holds? Hope this may help.

  6. #6

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    As I stated in first post I have never trapped in Alaska. Things might be different there, I am sure they will. Where I trap I can usually trap in less than a couple inches of snow by setting under cedars or pine trees where the ground is sheltered some. You want the trap scent free. The first thing you need to fool is the coyotes nose, and by all means do not underestimate it. If your trap has scent on it the coyote will let you know the first time they come through. I have had them uncover a trap that would look like they took a air hose and blowed the dirt off them. They seem to make rounds here and might not come back for a week or so and hunt in other places the other nights.

    I will try to explain the process of dying traps that I use. New traps are packed with a grease on them to keep them from rusting. I boil them in hot water now to remove this. The grease will float to the top of your container you use to dye them in. I built me a tub from two truck wheels welded together and a plate to cover the bottom. I run water in the tub after this process is finished and let it overflow. That way all the scent in the tub flows out of tub. If you let the grease float to top and pull traps through it it will get back on them again. Lay traps aside for a few days to let them get a light coat of rust on them. Any modifications should be done before this step, and traps should not be touched by skin after this step is started. After traps get a light coat of rust boil them in dye. I use a comercial logwood dye to boil them in but you can make yours from whatever is in the area you trap. The reason I use the logwood is for scent control and it also helps protect the trap from rust. I also wax my traps. This can be done two ways and I have tried both. You can throw a piece of unscented trap wax in your dye water and let it melt before dying traps. When you pull trap out through wax a light coat will stick to trap. The wax has two purposes. It protects the trap and makes it fire (close) faster usually resulting in a better hold on the animal.


    I use several dirt hole sets here and I use lure on some, urine on some, and will put a golf ball size piece of meat in the hole on other sets. All have made catches for me. Experiment with different things and see what works for you. I do not know Alaska trap laws make sure this is legal before you put meat in a hole and get in trouble. It is legal here and works good. I use muskrat, beaver, fish scraps, and about anything they are likely to find in the area you trap for bait. Trap should be about nine inches from baited hole and about three inches to the side and always down wind from bait hole. Hope this helps and remember it might be different there.

  7. #7
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    well we have been setting the snares about 30 feet away ... maybe thats our problem we have them set way to close.. thanks alot guys.. i will reboil my traps and set them back out .. thanks...

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