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Thread: Outfitting a Wooldridge Inboard Sport Drifter for the Yukon - Opinions needed

  1. #1
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    Default Outfitting a Wooldridge Inboard Sport Drifter for the Yukon - Opinions needed

    Looks like my present boat will be sold soon so first choice is to order a 25 foot inboard Wooldridge Sport Drifter jet. Pretty much narrowed the motor choice down to the 6.0 380 hp VVT engine with the following options:

    Heater/ Defroster - how good are these heaters for late Sept use?
    Stomp grate - is it needed?
    Suspension seats
    Bow rails
    Twin battery switch
    2 wipers
    2 spares
    Bow rails
    Extra cleats
    Full width swim step
    Hard top with canvas back and sides
    Trailer guide on's

    Looking for advice of people who know more than myself because I never owned an inboard jet before and have learned it is much easier to order it than adding it on later. What about a sand trap? Would appreciate hearing from you guys who run the Yukon and Koyukuk as I want to order this boat with no regrets on how it was built.

    Or would you old timers skip the inboard and put a 250 outboard on the back and call it a day? Any other boats to consider in the same price range?

    Thanks in advance.
    Tennessee

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    Member f0zzy2's Avatar
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    If it's gonna be a Koyukuk boat I'd have Glenn come up with some trick saddle tanks or some other type of aux fuel tanks. Also, have it plumbed with quick connects for running off drums. I would think a sand trap would be standard equipment.
    I also have to mention Willie Boats very similar to wooly's but they have welded on strakes instead of the the formed into the hull strake. But if your not gonna be running it shallow no need to worry about bashing them flat. They also have every option you could imagine. http://www.willieboats.com/raptor.htm

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    Plan on adding the quick connects for the drums once it arrives. Added this to my Alaskan and they are worth their weight in gold. But don't like the idea of saddle tanks as barrels are cheap and easy to burn on the way back.
    Sand trap is a $350 option.
    Tennessee

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    Member f0zzy2's Avatar
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    If your going with an inboard I would get the sand trap for sure. I just bought one from Presicion Weld for $190 delivered to AK. Not very hard to install at all.

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    I would definately add the heater option. You can pull plenty of heat from the motor, assuming you go with the inboard option. It is nice for the heat, as well as clearing the windows if you sleep on the boat.
    2009 Seawolf 31'
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    Randy,
    Sounds like that will be a nice setup, I have not owned a IB, but I think its the way to go. Especially since you should have plenty of power to turn the 3.4 impeller, maybe even the 4.0....? What does Glenn think?

    One comment on the bow rail, I had a standard one on my 17 Wooly and it was nice but it got in the way on a riverboat.
    unlike a ocean boat it seems like I am always loading and unloading off the bow and jumping from the bow to the bank........on my current boat we put a rail around the bow. Handy to tie things too, if you ever get stuck it provides something to get a hold of, provided you have enough manpower. Also a bit of a bumper and if someone ever goes in the drink at least they can hang on..........

    It may not make since on the Drifter....?

    One drawback so far.....my dog jumped off the bow and her foot slipped inbetween the rail and the boat and broke a couple of bones in her foot.

    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    Akgramps, The bow rails on the Sport Drifter are on top of the bow, on each side. But as far as the sand trap. What exactly is it? lol. How do you access it?
    Tennessee

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    Randy, Sir-catch-a-lot and I run together alot, he has the inboard, i have the outboard. I have learned that a stomp grate is VERY much needed on an inboard. and I am ALWAYS jealous of the heater/defroster he has. So in my opinion, those are must haves, alnong with the sand trap. I think you have a pretty good idea of what you need, as my uncle says, it's only money!!! Get what ya want!
    Tim

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    I have owned Wooldridge inboard boats for over 30 years and now in the family have 2 inboards and 2 outboards. If I was starting from scratch on a 25' sport drifter for the Yukon I would have these sugestions.
    1. I would move the fuel tanks from the belly to saddle tanks. Putting more structure back in the floor and lowering the floor to effectively gain more freeboard. I would talk to Glenn about using webbing design for the suport braces between the bottom stiffiners and the floor stringers. Once this is all tied together this would give the bottom more strength without adding wieght. I would set the saddle tanks on the floor stringers rather than the floor so I would not have to pull the tanks to get to the bottom from above. You need to clean the munge and check for broken welds every couple of years. 2. I would tie the pump base to the motor rails with a trianguler piece of 1/4 inch. 3. I would raise the winshield and make it straight up more and push it forward to have less dash and more forward visabilityand interior room. This would change the angle of the windshield as compaired to the open bow and may involve having a upper and lower front entry door. 4. Match the top of the sport rails on the side with the top of the motor cover. I have found when hauling lumber, beams, ATV's, hot tubs, stretchers it helps to have a raised level platform. With a 25' boat raise the motor cover 3 1/2" above the sport rails would allow for a 4x4 cross brace or better yet adjust the sport rails. 5, The sand trap and stomp grate would depend on the what conditions you intend to run in. If I could get away with it, I would have niether. A heater defrost is a no brainer. A couple wandering thoughts, lexan vs glass in window other than drivers, tread plate vs wood flooring and full width swim platform for a large cooler. The rivers I run down in the lower 48 are not round rock rivers so the less wieght means more wieght to haul and less damage on impact. Most of the builders in the lower 48 have been adding creature comforts to jet boats now a 24' boat may wieght upwards of 8,000 #. Then lots of cubic inches, supercharging or turbo oil burnners are needed to push these water winnabagoes. Not to mention larger pumps to push and power stroking cummings duromaxs to pull them. Glad I got that off my chest.

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    if i had the money & was building one I'd put a espar or similar heater in also for when sleeping, drifting, & other times when the engine heater is used...

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    i think I'd invite sportdrifter out for a drink & pick his brain also & Ellamar they both have these boats & used them up there!!

  12. #12

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    I would get the sand trap it lets the sand and stones filter out before they enter your heat exchanger. If you go without you can over heat the engine when you pack the heat exchanger full of sand and small rocks if you pump a bit of sand or gravel. It is easily dumped by a valve in the transom.

    The quick disconnect may be a little harder to figure out you will have lots of returned fuel from the engine to plumb back in. You could run one of your 2 rear fuel tanks empty if you go with the engine ahead model. This would allow the returned fuel to fill it up as you go, with two tanks like my setup the fuel always returns to the left tank, there is a cross over line to prevent one from overfilling. I have a friend that plumbed his like you are looking to do. PM me and I can get you his number.

    The heater works great get it
    Get the storage trays in the hard top.
    brakes on both axles
    the slick bunks on the trailer bunks with the load guides.
    The bow rails you may want to think over, when we load the boat and get on and off a lot when fishing or hunting I don't think I would like to lift everything higher up to get it over the rails. The sport drifters set up higher than your old AK II when parked on the beach.

    They offer a 4ft bench to bed option if you plan on sleeping on the boat.
    Ellamars idea of the higher standard benches may be the way to go.
    A wash down pump to keep the boat cleen (all that moose blood and hair).
    You may wan't an engine cover pad?
    The stomp grate is a must.
    rear deck light, this mounts to the hard top
    Figure out your rear sport rails hight and if you wan't them to go arround the rear of the transom behind or infront of the fish box.
    A transducer bracket if you plan on a fish finder
    Tilt wheel?
    I would go with full led lights now, nav and rear deck lights
    Get Busters to do your top he covers up all the openings to make it quite a bit more bug proof and warmer, less drafts.

    You better just come over and look at mine, that would save us lots of time and typing.
    Look up my and Ellamars build threads lots of good pics to go over.

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    Todd and others thanks so far.

    Not getting any extra seats, just a waste of space for 2 of us. If we need a rear seat later on I'll go to Silver Streak in Anchorage and have some built. Much nicer seats IMO.

    What about the hard top that has canvas sides and front?


    So far have:

    Heater/defroster
    stomp grate
    suspension seats
    sand trap
    bow rails ..........maybe.....maybe not......after listening to you guys am thinking they may not be a good idea
    transducer bracket
    full width swim step for hauling extra gear
    tilt steering

    Glenn is going to be sending me a price on building a 100 gallon gas tank

    Plan on upgrading the trailer to about 6,000 pound capacity, discs are standard on both axles now, slick bunks, guide on's, two spares.


    Will try to find your old build threads but never gave any ideas about lighting before.

    Thanks for all the tips so far.
    Tennessee

  14. #14

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    I love my hard top nice trays in the sides to put gear and small items I had them put in 2 interior lights, it only weighs 60 pounds or so the top fabric comes off it in the winter and I just tarp it over, with some ropes for support down to the transom from the rear of the hard top. Sweep the snow off once in a while, the rest of the fabric should last for years, inside in the winter.

  15. #15
    Member Yukoner's Avatar
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    One thing I added to my Sport is some interior LED lighting located on the top of the window frames. Controlled by one of the acc. switches on the breaker panel.
    Very, very handy on those dark September nights when you are trying to find stuff in the boat. Maybe they could do something at the shop for you.
    Never wrestle with a pig.
    you both get dirty;
    the Pig likes it.

  16. #16

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    I agree with those hard top side trays, mines not a Wooly but this is what I did with my trays and love them.

    Made the bottom tray 9" wide

    Drilled the corners for a 1/4 rod (used bicycle flag rod)

    Rod holds bottom of looped cargo net in place, net keeps things on the shelfs and is also a bag

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    LED lighting is a great idea but will install it myself. Inexpensive to do and we can design it to our wishes. Shelves in the hardtop might be worth the $299.

    Good forum, added some items I didn't think of, and canceled a couple that I thought would be nice to have.
    Tennessee

  18. #18
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    RiverCJ said it first, and I'll echo it.
    Checker plate Aluminum floor boards.
    I put 'em in my old Alaskan, and they were so much easier to clean than the Vinyl covered marine ply, and they don't absorb water (obviously). I am going to install them in my Sport sometime. Blood washes right off the Aluminum, but you have to scrub to get it off the Vinyl.
    Never wrestle with a pig.
    you both get dirty;
    the Pig likes it.

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    Pretty much decided on all the options except the motor size. Some guys claim the 6.0 380 hp is to small, others say it will do but it will be a pig.
    The 8.1 is 420 hp and comes with a 4 inch impeller vs the 3.4 on the 6.0 liter. Been asking the same question on a couple different forums and most feedback is to get the 8.1, but this is coming from guys who never actually owned the 6.0. I am leaning towards the 8.1 as it should have a lower cruising rpm with same, or maybe even better fuel economy.
    Thoughts?

    Are the aluminum floor boards slippery?
    Tennessee

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowwolfe View Post
    Are the aluminum floor boards slippery?
    I had the vinyl on my hewescraft and it was much slicker than my diamond tread on my GC. I agree with Yukoner, it cleans up nicer, too. I suspect it is quite a bit lighter as well.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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