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Thread: Anchor system help

  1. #1
    Member idakfisher's Avatar
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    Default Anchor system help

    Last year I bought a used 2525 Kingfisher (I love it) that didn't have an anchor system. It originally had a 700 Lewmar but all that was removed before I got the boat. So, when I fished last summer I carried an anchor, rope, and bouy for emergencies; but, I have never anchored yet. Kingfishers have a flat aluminum front deck, so, there isn't an easy way to store the rope unless I feed it into to the rope hole by hand.

    I have heard that some people have had problems with the lewmars, both malfunctions and the rope kinking up.

    So, how about some advice. Is the Lewmar the way to go? Or should I look into an above deck capstan or an anchor reel? And what rope should I get? Lewmar sells their own rope, but it is pretty spendy.

  2. #2

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    I installed a Lewmar on my boat (Seasport Explorer 24) about 6 years ago. It sure made life easier for anchor deployment and retrieval nearshore. Feeding the rode down through the hole by hand is a pain. I run 40 feet of chain and a 22 lb Bruce-style anchor which got old pulling by hand. I would not rely an electric windlass for deep halibut fishing unless it's real heavy duty. Too much wear and tear on the motor (I mostly drift fish). I got rid of the kink problems by putting a swivel shackel between the chain and anchor. In a blow at anchor I tie the rode to a front cleat to take the strain off the windlass. So far no windlass failures.

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    Member smtdvm's Avatar
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    Lewmars work pretty well usually. A problem common to them is having an anchor locker that is not deep enough to lay the rode in without slacking the line too much. Depth of retrieval could be a problem with any electric, depending on amount of use.

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    I have a Lewmar 1000H, and I pull a 33lb anchor with 50ft of chain from a couple of hundred of feet on a regular basis. One advantage of this over a capstan is that you can put internal contols at the helm and control it from inside. It is nice to be able to use the boat motor to overcome the wind and current so you put less strain on the windless, but mine has performed flawlessly so far. Also, there is a spec as to how much 'drop' the windless expects. I think it is something like 1.5 feet. If you put too much rode on it and overfill your locker, then you will get this kinking problem.
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    Member idakfisher's Avatar
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    jrogers, what diameter rode do you use?

    And Is the twisting factor worse with the 3 strand vs. 8 strand?

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    Member Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    To eliminate the twist/kink problem 100% use 8 plait rope and it piles real good in the locker. I was always having the kink problem, even with a swivel and they would get caught in the windless at the wrong time, making a bad situation worse. The rope is a little more expensive, but will worth it.
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    Member MRFISH's Avatar
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    with your flat bow surface, a reel-based system might work better. I had the EZ Anchor Puller on my old Sea Sport and I loved it. Push the switch on the dash and it's up or down. I'd regularly anchor in 200-250' for fishing with no problem.

    I can only think of two issues...one was with the bow roller. The anchor (bruce) wouldn't deploy by itself when it had been pulled all the way in...someone would have to go out on the bow and nudge it over until gravity took over. If there's a roller that can hold the anchor at something like a 45 degree angle when pulled up, then you should be able to avoid this problem.

    The only other minor issue was that occassionally you'd need someone to help guide the rode to level wind the reel. This was only an issue sometimes when anchoring deep and you were re-winding most of the rode onto the reel.

    Somewhat minor issues, both, I really loved the system.

    I never had a capstan-type puller, but I always wondered about the possibility of using it to also pull shrimp pots. That would be a big bonus if possible.

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    Member jrogers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idakfisher View Post
    jrogers, what diameter rode do you use?

    And Is the twisting factor worse with the 3 strand vs. 8 strand?
    I have a 33lb. Bruce anchor w/ 50 5/16 galv. Chain and 300 of 9/16 pro-set nylon rode. Others seem to have a problem with the three strand, but it has not been an issue for me. The one thing I have to watch is that I have had to rebraid the end where the rode attaches to the chain twice now, since the windlass seems to work the splice loose. I redid this again this winter with a longer splice and whipping compound at the end, so hopefully this one lasts longer.
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    Member Cap'n Ron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrogers View Post
    I have a 33lb. Bruce anchor w/ 50 5/16 galv. Chain and 300 of 9/16 pro-set nylon rode. Others seem to have a problem with the three strand, but it has not been an issue for me. The one thing I have to watch is that I have had to rebraid the end where the rode attaches to the chain twice now, since the windlass seems to work the splice loose. I redid this again this winter with a longer splice and whipping compound at the end, so hopefully this one lasts longer.
    Maybe try putting some shrink wrap over your splice and it should last much longer??

    I use a capstan on the front of the Hewes Craft, but it is easy to work up there with the big front door and open bow....and I don't anchor that often, mainly use the capstan (Powerwinch Quick Catch Pot Puller...or look at the new Electradyne that Steve/Potbuilder has) to pull my shrimp pots, works great as MRFISH asked about. I use 8 plait rope, the issue with 3-strand twisted kinking up is more pronounce with a capstan that has 3-5 wraps going around it...

  10. #10
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    I use 600' of rode, with a SS ring and a buoy to pull it up. Then my windless (the admiral) coils the rode in a tub. I like the view!

    I have been told by Lewmar that thier windlass would over heat pulling this much rode.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRFISH View Post
    with your flat bow surface, a reel-based system might work better. I had the EZ Anchor Puller on my old Sea Sport and I loved it. Push the switch on the dash and it's up or down. I'd regularly anchor in 200-250' for fishing with no problem.

    I can only think of two issues...one was with the bow roller. The anchor (bruce) wouldn't deploy by itself when it had been pulled all the way in...someone would have to go out on the bow and nudge it over until gravity took over. If there's a roller that can hold the anchor at something like a 45 degree angle when pulled up, then you should be able to avoid this problem.

    The only other minor issue was that occassionally you'd need someone to help guide the rode to level wind the reel. This was only an issue sometimes when anchoring deep and you were re-winding most of the rode onto the reel.

    Somewhat minor issues, both, I really loved the system.

    I never had a capstan-type puller, but I always wondered about the possibility of using it to also pull shrimp pots. That would be a big bonus if possible.
    The capstan style pullers will work for pulling pots but you still have to maintain tension(pull on it) on the rope as you haul, be careful of how many wraps you have on the capstan and the biggest danger with them is getting a "riding turn" on the capstan, its when a little nub or piece of splice gets under one of the wraps and then the whole mess just keeps winding up and around the capstan. The danger when pulling pots with one comes when you have to clear the knots of the droppers from the mainline if it happens at the wrong time you can "two block" the pot when it tries to get pulled through the open faced block on the end of the davit and even if you do shut off the capstan in time you still have the weight of the rest of the pots hanging down in the water so it makes it that much harder to get slack to clear the mess up, another danger is getting a shirt sleeve, rain jacket sleeve or jacket tail wrapped on the capstan and you get sucked into it. They work great for a few intended purposes but they can be very dangerous, I know this from years of using one to haul lobster gear with but the key there was that it had a clutch on it so it could easily be freewheeled if a riding turn happened, and they did happen more than i liked.

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    Idakfisher,

    I have your exact same boat - Kingfisher 2525 and have installed the Lewmar Pro 1000 windlass, changed the gypsy to be 1/2"; have about 400' of 8 plait rope and 30' of chain with 22 lb bruce. Lewmar windlass has worked very well. The free-fall version is an ABSOLUTE must have - I can drop and set anchor in no time at all - works perfect, especially immportant when you're trying for a specific spot. When in winter (long-term) storage, however, make sure that you do not leave the anchor line tight in the gypsy - best to bypass the windlass. Locker room on the 2525 is just a little tight - you will need to pat down the line when bringing up in deeper depths. Hope this is of some help to you.

    Overall, excellent boat and very pleased with my anchor setup.

  13. #13
    Member idakfisher's Avatar
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    Kodiak Hunter,

    Thanks for the help. I bought my boat partly after reading your posts last winter about your boat when you were responding to the thread "Help choosing a Pilot House". I think the first Kingfisher I saw was the pictures of yours on this forum. I studied that thread like the Bible. It really helped me decide what features I wanted, even sitting in Idaho and not being able to shop hands on.

    Anyway, here are some questions for you:
    Why a Lewmar model 1000 instead of 700?
    Is 1/2" rode the smallest you would recommend? You could get more in the rope locker with 3/8".
    I know someone with a used 1000 he would sell, but it is not a "freefall", I passed because I thought it would only take 5/8" rode.
    Do you feel the power down model is a mistake?

  14. #14
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idakfisher View Post
    Do you feel the power down model is a mistake?
    The problem with the power down models is that they deploy at such a slow rate that you are in Hawaii by the time your anchor hooks up. Actually that is an upside about now, isn't it?

    If you are using the windlass to anchor on a specific way point, you need to use gravity IMO.

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    Member jrogers's Avatar
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    I have the Lewmar 1000 Pro, and I don't think it has a freefall mode. I power it out, and it runs the line out about as fast as I would want it to go. I can also leave the cabin and release the clutch at the windless, but I never do this since I prefer to drop it from the helm where I can control the boat. I could time it going down sometime, but it is not much different than the freefall rate of the 33lb bruce anchor in water.
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    Idakfisher,

    Why a Lewmar model 1000 instead of 700? It was on sale, and I changed to 1/2" to allow for more room in the locker; 3/8" may be a little light, but regardless I don't think Lewmar sells a 3/8" gypsy. I think you would be just fine with the 700.

    Yes, I truly believe purchasing the power down model would be a mistake - you were wise to pass it up, at least from my perspective. With the free-fall model, you still have the choice of whether to power down or free-fall, and it's very easy to change. However, after using the free-fall feature, you won't go back. Once you find your fishing or camping spot -- bam - you're done. Also, when dropping the anchor under free fall, there is no draw on your battery. I was a real skeptic about buying the free fall feature at first - but now it is an obvious choice. I am not sure why they sell the power down only models anymore.

    Good luck and let me know if you have any additional questions.

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    Member idakfisher's Avatar
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    Kodiak, Is 400' of rode enough? What is the max. depth you feel safe to anchor in?

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    If you have room, then more rode is always better. If your engine(s) fail in bad water, it's always an added safety feature to have more rode. I believe Lethcoe recommends 600', but that may be a tight fit and would require constant pat-downs when bringing up the anchor. For me, I generally don't fish deeper than 300 feet anyway (generally more like 150').

    I have never dragged anchor but generally do not anchor (fish) in depths greater than 250 to 275 ft. I have been fishing in the sound for 15 plus years on different boats - and have been just fine with 300 to 400' rodes. But then again, I have not had a need (either for emergency or fishing) to anchor in deeper water.

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    I also have 2825 Kingfisher with Lewmar 700 Pro free fall. I had it for about three years with very good results. Length of anchor rode should depend on where you mainly fish. I mainly boat out of PWS and I carry 600 of rode and 50 of chain. I think you will be happy with free fall feature on the windlass.

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