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Thread: Can't pull 22-250 bullets apart

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    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Default Can't pull 22-250 bullets apart

    So I loaded 20 rounds up with the wrong powder measure. No big deal since I caught it before heading to the field. Problem I am having is that I can't pull these bullets apart!!! I have tried two different kineticbullet pullersand they will not budge. Any hints???

    Thanks ahead of time

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    Try reseating bullets a little deeper. Then retry your puller.

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    Member GrizzlyH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk alaska View Post
    Try reseating bullets a little deeper. Then retry your puller.
    Good idea, that may losen the crimp.
    I can do the impossible right away. Be patient, miracles take me a bit longer.

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    Moving them deeper may help, but I'd try one of them first and see. I suspect you may be facing a product of the lightweight .224 bullets having very little inertia. In that case, make certain the cartridge is very tight in its holder and swing the puller a bit harder. BTDT and realize that any cartridge .257 and smaller can sometimes be a pain to pull with a kinetic puller. They can be done, but oftentimes you must hit them pretty hard.
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    I had the same problem with some 300 Win Mag ammo. It was factory Winchester with 165 grain Failsafe bullets. I did not want to shoot the moly coated ammo in my rifle but figured I could pull the bullets and either reload them with non moly bullets or sell the primed brass. I almost gave out using my RCBS bullet puller before a bullet finally left the brass. After going through the same thing with my second try I gave up. I was about worn out by then anyway. Now I have 38 Winchester loaded rounds and two primed brass. In my case, I think it was the fact that the ammo had been loaded for quite a while that caused the bullet pulling problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Cor15:19 View Post
    Moving them deeper may help, but I'd try one of them first and see. I suspect you may be facing a product of the lightweight .224 bullets having very little inertia. In that case, make certain the cartridge is very tight in its holder and swing the puller a bit harder. BTDT and realize that any cartridge .257 and smaller can sometimes be a pain to pull with a kinetic puller. They can be done, but oftentimes you must hit them pretty hard.
    Exactly...(I'll repeat make sure the cartridge is tight in the holder)...I'll add be sure to hit it squarely on a hard surface and progressively increase the whackage. I use my concrete garage floor. I've had the same puller for a dozen years or so and I haven't broken it yet despite many times that I whacked the daylights out of it.

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    Good time to buy a collet style puller
    Tennessee

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    The light 22 bullet isn't helping. If you are going to use a kinetic puller, strike it hard on a piece of steel. An old piece of train track works well. Past that, a collet puller is in your future. Or, its only 20 rds, chuck them and write it up to experience.....
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

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    Quote Originally Posted by gunbugs View Post
    The light 22 bullet isn't helping. If you are going to use a kinetic puller, strike it hard on a piece of steel. An old piece of train track works well. Past that, a collet puller is in your future. Or, its only 20 rds, chuck them and write it up to experience.....
    I agree. WHAT you hit the puller on has a huge impact (pun intended) on results, especially with light bullets. I can beat my kinetic puller senseless on my bench top without results. But aim for the exact spot where a 4x4 upright meets the top, and results are quick. Any springy surface, even slightly springy, robs the puller of the kinetics needed for small, light bullets.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    I agree. WHAT you hit the puller on has a huge impact (pun intended) on results, especially with light bullets. I can beat my kinetic puller senseless on my bench top without results. But aim for the exact spot where a 4x4 upright meets the top, and results are quick. Any springy surface, even slightly springy, robs the puller of the kinetics needed for small, light bullets.
    I found a huge difference here also, used to be hitting my shop floor, (not concrete but wood)

    and just a whacking away, then I turned a Spruce log round, (pce of unsplit firewood),
    Hit that right near the center where the grain is tight, Made a Phenomenal difference.
    also was not real loud either, if you're doing the 2am reloading deal

    No give to the surface, much faster and easier bullet pulling (using rcbs tool) really, it's just a few minor taps now and out they go
    So, I found a longer Log round tall and wide enough to be a stool, permanent fixture by the reloading bench
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    It will kill the bullet and save the brass but . . . remove your die from the press, put round in press, push up through where dye goes, put fender washer over bullet to protect press threads, grab bullet with vice-grip or pliers, lift handle and bullet comes out.

    I killed an RCBS kenotic puller pulling crimped 30-06, banging away on the face of my anvil and the plastic exploded. I was pelted all about the face with plastic but lucky to not get it in the eyes so PROTECT YOUR EYES boys.
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    I pulled some 243 70 grainers the other night! The first half about wore me and the kinetic puller out as i was wacking it on the concrete floor in the basement. The second half were done on an anvil in the garage at -2 degrees but didn't take but one good square hit per bullet.

    If all else fails use your reloading press and a pair of side cutters! Put the round in the shell holder and run in up through the hole in the press where the dies screw in so that the bullet is just protruding through the hole then with the side cutters laying flat across the top of the press grab the bullet with the cutter with one hand and run the press handle with the other. Make sure that the jaws of the side cutter are supported by the press on both sides of the hole. I've done it that way a thousand times. You might leave a tiny mark on the bullet which has never seemed to affect the accuracy when reloaded again. With a little practice you will learn how hard to squeeze the bullet without messing it up yet still hold it tight enough for the press to pull it. Try to grab the bullet where it's tapering...beyond the portion of the bullet that is going to touch the rifling.

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    I was using my RBCS bullet puller on the top of a fence post with the poor results. Why didn't I think of my anvil? Great suggestion EKC. I will give that a try tomorrow.
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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Get a collet puller, no muss, no fuss.

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    Some years back when I lived in Anchorage, I loaded a buncha 357s wrong, and had to pull the bullets with my Impact type puller.

    I was outside in the backyard, under the almost Midnight Sun, sitting on a HUGE rock that was bout as big as a TWO washer dryers, mixed up together, but hard.

    I was doin fine, until the lady next door stuck her head out her bedroom window, and said, "Reely Smitty". I apologized and briefly explainded what I was doin, but I'm sure she hadn't a clue, and was only interested in stopping the pounding so she could get some sleep.

    I finished up banging on the garage floor with the door closed.

    If you have a LOT of bullets to pull, a Collet type is a good investment. I like the Hornady one, that I got recently. You hafta adjust it of course, but it grabs and lets go of the bullet via a Toggle lever.
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    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice from everyone. I will try again to beat the crap out of the hammer. I didn't crimp my rounds so I am only fighting the light weight bullet. Collet style puller may very well be in my future...

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    Ok, there is a trick to using a inertia puller. One , use a very hard surface. A solid piece of steel is about as good as it gets although concrete isn't bad. Two, don't hold it like a hammer. Hold the very end of the handle between the thumb and fore finger. Use the next finger also but only if you need it to keep from loosing hold. Swing the thing getting as much head speed as you can without the palm of your hand pushing down on the handle. You want the hammer as free as possible for as much rebound as possible. That way the hammer not only stops going in the direction of the bullet but takes of in the other direction from the bullet in effect doubling the pulling force of the puller. Hold the handle loose not like trying to drive nails. People that are having trouble with an inertia puller are usually using them wrong.

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    Supporting Member iofthetaiga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    I agree. WHAT you hit the puller on has a huge impact (pun intended) on results, especially with light bullets. I can beat my kinetic puller senseless on my bench top without results. But aim for the exact spot where a 4x4 upright meets the top, and results are quick. Any springy surface, even slightly springy, robs the puller of the kinetics needed for small, light bullets.
    BrownBear hit it right on the head (another pun). What you use as your 'anvil' make all the difference in the world. I use a large solid round of birch high-graded from the wood pile. I've found it makes the perfect striking surface.
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    Rbuck's instructions solved my problem. I used a horse shoeing anvil and held the bullet puller as he described. Two whacks and out came the projectile and the powder. Amazing what a little knowledge can do.
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    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    I used an anvil and the garage floor and nothing seemed to work. In my opinion, having to beat the crap out of the puller is B.S. I went an bought a RCBS collet puller and am very happy I did. I pulled 60 loads apart in about 10 minutes. Thanks for the advice on this and I will retire the hammer for .22 bullets.

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