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Thread: Gun Safes????

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    Member BrettAKSCI's Avatar
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    Default Gun Safes????

    I need a gun safe. I don't really want to throw down for one, but it's that time. So what's available around Anchorage and what do you guys like? I know Sportsman's has Browning. Anyone else? What do you guys use? What do you like?

    I spoke to a cousin who recommended finding something with a really good fire rating, a humidity control bar (????I think that's what he called it????), and lots of weight. Anything else I should be looking for?

    Brett

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    I have 2 cannon safes I got from boondocks. Wait for the sportsmans show, for the best deals. I also have a Winchester safe from costco and it's cheap junk.

    Cannon has a good fire rating and warrenty.

    You definatly need a safe for your new rifle

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    I have a Cannon that I actually got at Costco a few years back, but I've not seen them there since. It has a good fire rating, and it's a heavy pig. I definately like it. Throw down the money and get a good one.

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    I'd add that you can't buy a safe that is too large, so long as you can get it into your home. In addition to firearms you can add all sorts of things: pictures, mementos, jewelry, documents, etc if you have the extra space. That fact was a real selling point for my wife, not too mention that the larger a safe is the more firearms it can hold and that is always a good thing.
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    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    I've got 2 Cannon safes, a #23 and a#33, the 33 is well worth the extra money for the increased room inside. It's amazing how a little more interior volume adds up to more storage. It seems exponential. Put your safe somewhere where it can be bolted down or vitually impossible to get out of the house without a mule team. Too many burglaries are accomplished by taking the whole safe. If you and 2 friends can scoot it out of the house, then the three scumbags can too. The garage is a real loser, then they can back the truck up to your safe and take it in a heartbeat. And remember, THEY won't worry about scratching YOUR guns. Fire protection is nice, I've seen guns that were saved by being in the safe. The others outside were scrap steel. The standard 1200 degree for 35 minute rating should do the trick. If the fire is longer than that or hotter then it probably won't matter anyway. But that would probably depend on how fast the Fire Department can get to your place and how quickly they get it cooled down. A consideration, to be sure.
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    I bought a nice one this past year. Someone told me that they are tax deductible, I guess I'll find out in a couple of months. The trick is claiming it as a fire proof document storage devise. Get a big one and keep your rifles, guns and documents in there...

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    Member BrettAKSCI's Avatar
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    Anyone have one of the Cannon Safari DG7250 safes? It's the 72"-50"-28" variety. Any other specific ones you would recommend?

    Brett

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    gunbugs makes a really good point...I took the time to anchor my safe in concrete. It was extra work for me, but it ain't going anywhere easy.

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    Had a garage down in the states, bolted the safe down with "red-heads". When I sold it prior to coming up here, it was a BUGGER to get out. And I had access to the interior. lol

    I had a liberty with fire rating and it was great, but I don't know if they have them in Anchorage.

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    Member Vince's Avatar
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    I have figured out that if you buy one... buy it from some one that DELIVERS and has the tools to put it where it goes.
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

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    Member big_dog60's Avatar
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    I have a winchester and it works fine for me. Heavy bugger got to be close to 500 lbs, I don't recall what the fire rating is off hand.

    If you get a big one make sure you can get it through the door. I had to take the handles off mine to get it in my house.

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    I had one given to me a long while back, says "Weatherby" on the front, that thing is Heavy....

    About 4yrs back, it endured a serious fire, got real hot, quite a bit of paint bubbled off the outside, the fire raced across the roof of the building I had it in, Real Hot, and they hosed that thing down big time, no water got inside at all. Combination lock still works fine.

    not sure they all can withstand Fire Hose Blasting, so it's worth checking that it is sealed well also.
    Not a spec of damage internally, didn't even smell up the carpet inside, and Everything Else was totally ruined in the vicinity. Smoke damage is REAL and could ruin something that never gets a lick of flame on it.

    Still using it, working good. Go For the Fire Rating, Check that the door seals are tight, not sloppy at all,
    you could be sighing in Big relief someday
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Member marshall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kodiakrain View Post
    Check that the door seals are tight, not sloppy at all, you could be sighing in Big relief someday
    It's my understanding that the safes with a fire rating have a seal that expands tight when subjected to heat. There is a little slack under normal conditions.

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    Member Alaskan22's Avatar
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    Been looking at the Patriot safes. Called them and they said the "free shipping" doesn't include Alaska, but it's only $200 to ship and they'll put it on a barge. That's real important for me since I live in Nome. However, their BIG one was 1200 lbs. Need it to be lighter than that!
    Know guns. Know peace. Know safety.

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    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall View Post
    It's my understanding that the safes with a fire rating have a seal that expands tight when subjected to heat. There is a little slack under normal conditions.
    Good Point, This must be true as mine seems a bit slack when cool, I do have to lean against it with my shoulder when closing tho (may be a result of those seals having been heated once?)

    So I guess the thing to check is that part of the deal, "Do these seals expand in response to heat?" They probably all do, but I was surprised how well mine worked in that situation.
    I watched them hosing everything down, it was Full On blast for a long time after Fire was done, Those guys literally flooded the environment.
    Maybe all safes are not top of the line as far as fire and water goes....., Make sure yours is, just in case
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Member Vince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall View Post
    It's my understanding that the safes with a fire rating have a seal that expands tight when subjected to heat. There is a little slack under normal conditions.

    i hada browning, when my house burned down and found out what the fire rating ment... 1200 degree ~30 min, provided the fire dept is spraying water on it. a safe should be against an outside wall to be effective.. fire service is mandatory.

    my house went over 7000 degrees and no fire service, it melted down to the size of a compact dishwasher, and ever thing inside was gone. to give you and idea, the metal roofing was in liqued form when the forestry dept show up to make sure no trees burned

    as for replacement value, i did not have insurance riders for EACH gun so they were figured at new replacement cost and the standard depreciation was subtracted... worked out to about 15% of new....

    home owners insurance needs a rider for EACH gun, especially if replacement cost is over 1000.00
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

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    I spent 32 years as a professional firefighter, saw 4 safes up close and personal AFTER the fire was extinguished - Know that most safes are fire rated for 30 minutes and that no matter how good your safe is, if it is subjected to the kind of temps a good "working" house fire produces, whether the fire penetrates the interior or not the heat will and quite possibly affect the steel parts somewhere in the gun(s) - IF you are living in a place where you are planning on staying why not build a vault, you can usually do it for equal or less than a good safe will cost you and you will then have, depending on the construction techniques, a truly fireproof safe - One of the fires I was on wasn't even a total loss, the guy had 2 safes side by side to store his Pre-64 collection ... I helped him remove the guns and it was not a pretty picture, I don't recall what the brand of safes was but they were substantial and not only was there much heat damage but steam damage from the HOT water being "put" on the HOT metal, we talked about that for years, as a hunter it nearly brought tears to my eyes - I have built a vault in every home I have occupied since then

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vince View Post
    I have figured out that if you buy one... buy it from some one that DELIVERS and has the tools to put it where it goes.
    So true! It cost me >$150 to get my safe delivered 12 miles away from the store.

    AJ

  19. #19

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    Brett,

    I have a Timber Ridge purchased at Gander Mountain in NC. This year I wanted to upgrade it to an electronic keypad. The local locksmith said he'd do it if I wanted then he advised that the electronic keypads malfunction at a much higher rate than the dials. When they malfunction he has to drill out the safe and he said the is a PIA and expensive. I kept the dial. I move a lot and the safe will get shaken up more than the average safe.

    _____

    back country,

    Not sure what you meant about the vault. Can you please explain it further for those of us who are vault-description-impaired?

  20. #20
    Member AK Ray's Avatar
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    For a safe, buy a Cannon from Boondocks/WWG during the sportsmans show this spring. They will deliver it if they can find some guys standing around is what I understood when I bought mine over a decade ago.

    My Cannon is a 23 gun safe. It has the 30 min fire rating like the other guys have mentioned. It also weighs 630 lbs empty. There was no place I could put this in the house that would not have required additional floor support. So I stuck it the in woodshop/garage and bolted it down. Dust does get through the door when I am working on a big sanding project like an epoxy coated boat. The seal on the Cannon that I have is designed to melt at a low temperature and then be replaced. The thing I like about the Cannon is that the hinge is internal. A few times I have seen guys try to cut the external hinges off to get in the safe and that ruins it. All they can do on a Cannon is bust the dial or handle off. They could also cut into a side, but then the torch tip is up against sheetrock. A gas powered demo saw might work better.

    Way back when I decided to save some money ($200) by going with the dial. Last year it was taking me about 30 minutes to open the safe. I called a lock smith and they said that for a garage kept safe it was normal to have the workings cleaned every few years. OR I could have them install an aftermarket keypad system. So $350 later I have a safe that I can get into in seconds rather than hours. Notice that I did not save any money by going with the dial first, but with inflation maybe I broke even.

    Looking at what Cannon offers now my old safe is comparable to a P22 series safe. They offer a different long gun arrangment now, which does not improve the process for getting something out from way in the back. Not much you can do about that.

    However, if I was doing it all over again and had the room I would consider building a vault.

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