Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: Need ideas for designing a bed across my bench seats

  1. #1
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default Need ideas for designing a bed across my bench seats

    Need some help folks. Im trying to design a way to make my bench seats into a bed that runs across the beam of the boat. Hewescraft has a better design for this..well actually, the fact that they have a design at all is better. Kingfisher didnt take this into consideration on my 2525. If there are some Kingfisher owners out there that have already tackled this, then Id be very interested in knowing what you did, pictures would be even better, and I would of course welcome other ideas.

    After much pondering, my thought was to cut a piece of plywood that is the full width of the seat and would span the aisle between the bench seats. I was going to attach aluminum angle iron to the bottom ends of the plywood so the angle would hook over the inside edge of each seat. This would stabilize the board across the beam of the boat. Then after throwing some ideas around with my brother about how to also make this a table conversion, I had decided I wanted to put a flush mount table support in the floor between the benches. Then Id use an RV table support (pipe) that is adjustable in length to serve as a mid-support for the plywood when shortened (the span between benches is 31-1/2) and a table support when extended. The connection on the underside of the plywood was going to be a bracket that would allow the table to slide port or starboard should anyone need to get out the door while the table is set up, but would be locked in place all other times.



    Then came the problems as I looked closer:
    • The two bench seats arent the same height. They differ by three inches.
    • With the seat backs in the raised position, there is only 64 between the seat backs.
    • With the seat back on the shorter seat (non-toilet one) laid down, a longer board would be level and would allow a 63 guy to fit. However, that kills the table plan, and the longer board would take too much room for storage.
    The seat backs are 12H and 36W. Another consideration is to find a way to use the seat backs as the span, but I cant think of any way to do that which wouldnt require some rather major modifications.

    Frankly, I'm pretty open to ideas. The negative side of putting the table support pipe in is I don't really want to cut a hole in the deck, and the pipe wouldn't allow a third person to sleep on the floor in the aisle. I could add aluminum angle iron to the sides of the plywood that span the aisle too, which would add enough rigidity so I wouldn't need the pipe support.


    So what do you think? Heres a few pictures of what Ive described above.

    BoatBed 001.jpgBoatBed 003.jpg

    Thanks! Mike

  2. #2
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

  3. #3
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

  4. #4
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default And one last one

    This shows the seat back bracket.

    BoatBed 011.jpg

  5. #5
    Member patrickL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    1,131

    Default

    What about trying to figure out some sort of flip/flop backrest similar to what wooldridge has on their dinette? That way they could flip up for the backrest, flip forward to access to your storage areas and then flip all the way down for the bed. You'd have to get the dimensions right to make sure they filled the gap but it might work. As for the difference in height of the two benches, I could only see buying a taller base for the short base to match the other.

  6. #6

    Default



    Raise the short bench 3" with floor spacer
    Change back rest hardware to something that will allow the back rest to lift free
    Fabricate channels to span gap
    Fabricate 7 1/2" x 36" filler
    Use backs and filler on channels to make bed platform
    instead of filler is there space to make new backs 15 3/4" tall, no filler would be needed

    The hole thing would sort of copy Hewescraft

  7. #7
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Thanks Patrick, I'll have to look at that some. I had no clue what Wooldridge had till I went to their web site and looked in their photo gallery. I see where they have the backrest that allows the people on the front bench to face forward or rearward, and then it lays down almost flat when the table top is dropped for a bed. Gives me something to think about.

    I've sent an email to Harborcraft too. It'll be interesting to see how they reply.

  8. #8
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Jonsboat, You were reading my mind when I put in the dimensions of the backs. I was thinking about increasing their height like you mentioned, but wasn't really aware of how Hewescraft does their hardware. Using the backrests is A LOT more desirable than taking along something extra. Anyone with a boat knows how space gets sucked up in no time if you aren't careful. Additionally, I needed to get at least one of the backrests out of the way to make the bed longer.

    Channels are a breeze. I'd probably opt for using some aluminum angle. If anyone had some pictures of the Hewescraft seat hardware that they could post, I could visualize the mod better.

    Good ideas! Thank you.

  9. #9

    Default

    I'll go back to the barn, take the pics and post them, shouldn't be more then a half hr.

  10. #10

    Default

    Back mounting hardware - cut out for potti & channels



    Channels mounted to seat bottom for stowage



    Channels placed in cut outs



    Cushions in place

  11. #11
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default

    First of all, Jon, you have a barn for your boat! I am so jealous! My boat is outside in the snow, rain, and tree debris. Some day a boat shelter will make it's way to the top of my to-do list.

    Secondly, thank you so very much for taking the time out of your day to take those pictures for me! I tried giving you a rep, but I have to spread it around some more. Suffice it to say you went beyond what I expected, and your actions are a great example of what makes this place so helpful.

    I don't think I can mount my backs the way yours are due to the way my boat and seats are set. However, at a minumum I'll take advantage of the channel idea, I'll start figuring out the best way to address the height issue. Frankly, until I come up with a quick way to remove the backs, it's not a huge issue to remove the screws, but I wouldn't want to do it too often cause eventually the screws won't fit snug anymore.

    Thanks again!
    Mike

  12. #12
    Member patrickL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    1,131

    Default

    Your last paragraph was exactly why I thinking about doing a flip/flop setup. I noticed from you pics that there wasn't an easy way to remove the backs since you didn't have the wall immediately behing the backs. I had an Ocean Pro like jonsboat's and it was setup just like his. It was alright but I noticed the plastic sliders were starting to wear out. I wonder if there's a way to build some sliders into the hinges you already have. That way you could just slide them on and off as needed and then set it up like jonsboat has it demonstrated.

    Good luck and keep us posted on what you do.

  13. #13
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default

    I wish I had a Lowes or Home Depot over here cause it's time for me to walk the hardware isle. Some times when I wasn't sure what would work, I'd walk around a hardware store looking and thinking. Then all of a sudden the solution would come to me.

    Yes, if i can find a quick connect/disconnect system that I can attach to the back of my seats and to the bracket, then it'll make bed time and getting going in the morning a lot faster and easier.

    If more ideas come up, please post them, and when I make a move, I'll post pictures of what I do.

    Thanks,
    Mike

  14. #14

    Default

    How about mounting somethin like this on the back of the backrest and mounting flat plates on the side walls with holes for the pins to go into instead of using the U catch.



    Really I didn't go out of my way, had to make sure the grandson didn't leave the barn heat on 70 before I went to bed --- he did ---sorry couldn't resist

  15. #15
    Member anonymous1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kodiak Is.
    Posts
    304

    Default parts n pieces

    Hey Jeff
    If you are`nt on the water your workin on the boat. Man you got the life !
    You probably know them but just in case this outfit has an amazing array buckles, pins, latches ect. We use them a lot. http://www.mcmaster.com/#

  16. #16
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default New idea

    Jon, good idea. After looking over different hardware options, I actually bought something similar to use....a slide bar without the U. But when I spent more time looking at my seat tonight, I thought of a better choice after I removed one of the seat backs. Since the pan head screws thread into a metal insert (see first picture), why not thread in a 1/4" S.S. piece of all thread (or S.S. screw without the head), lock it in place with red loctite, and then use wing nuts with a lock washer to hold the seat back in place? It makes for easy removal and installation, plus it uses the solid metal inserts in the seat back that are strong. I thought about using a nut to lock the all thread in place, but that wouldn't allow the back of the seat to sit flush against the bracket.

    IMG00002-20110103-1947.jpgIMG00003-20110103-1948.jpg

    Don't think I'll raise the seat pedestal off the floor because it's mounted to the floor using 1/4" panhead screws. I think I feel more comfortable leaving the base down on the floor, but I can raise the top edge that the seat base sits on using painted aluminum square stock as spacers. Hard to explain, but if I stay with this plan I'll be sure to post pictures.

    Thanks, Mike

  17. #17

    Default

    From the looks of those latest pic's your new idea is the best, looking forward to the completion pictures.

  18. #18
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default Bed is made

    I managed to get the conversion done. Because I wasn't under any deadline, I took the same approach that I normally find useful. I came up with a design, and tried to break it. Then the improvements normally lead to a good end product.

    In summary, i used 1" aluminum square stock (three layers) to build up the top of the box. I used 4" long 1/4" S.S. bolts with the matching washers, lock washers, and nylon locking nuts (overkill but secure) to run through the layers of square stock and the top lip of the mounting box. I opened the holes in the top pieces of square stock so I could recess the bolt heads and then have enough room to slide a deep socket through the hole. These sides were extremely solid, but before I tightened the bolts, I installed angle brackets to the top layer of square stock.






  19. #19
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Here's a few more pictures before I installed the cross members between the benches.




  20. #20
    Member HuntKodiak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Kodiak
    Posts
    684

    Default

    Then I cut grooves in the top of both benches for the angle aluminum cross members. The depth and height of the grooves was made to the inside limit of the 1" square stock, and as you'll see in the pictures, this alowed for the angle aluminum to fit nicely. I hadn't thought about this mod until after I'd done much of the other assembling, and unfortunately I buggered up a little paint. Just a little touch-up needed.








Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •