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Thread: Scope Mounting Issues

  1. #1

    Default Scope Mounting Issues

    I've recently put a Leupold VX-1 on my .375 H&H. When I shot it the first time the scope moved forward about 3/8ths of an inch in the rings. I ended up having to tighten the scope rings more than what felt natural and now it doesn't slide, but has anyone one else had this problem. I looked for torque values but wasn't able to find any.

    Thanks in Advance!

  2. #2
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    Default

    First make sure you degrease the scope tube, ring screws and the portion of the rings where the scope will rest. Degrease the inside of the screw holes as well.
    If you email Leupold they will give you torque values for ring screws and they are in inch foot pounds so you will need a screw driver calibrated for this.
    Another hint is to put either some rosin or good old fashioned rubber cement on the inside of the rings before you tighten down the screws. The rubber cement will peel off easily later if you want to remove it.
    Last edited by Snowwolfe; 02-20-2007 at 14:23.
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  3. #3
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    You didn't mention the brand of mounts but if Leupold rings and Leupold scope, it should not slip. The torgue value is 20 inchpounds. I use the Leupold Torx driver and hand tighten. I've mounted over 100 scopes on 375 and bigger rifles and they have held very well (100%). There ain't nuthin' wrong with leupold rings. I remove the oil and mount them dry without any thing added.

    The silver scopes and rings are naturally slick and must be matched Leupold rings with Leupold scopes and correctly torqued, evenly with an equal gap on each side. Just a little tip.
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  4. #4
    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Default advice on scope

    Great advice Murphy gives on scope rings. Very important. I have set up a Weatherby 300 and an Armalite AR-50. I will say the rings and installation are vital. I use burris tactical rings. As for intallation, get a ring lapping kit ($30 tops at brownells or midway usa), get a torque wrench that goes from about 20-60, Brownells sells this but available in many places. Also good for periodically checking the rings and bases as well as receiver plate ( a major source of inaccuracy in rifles is receiver screws being to tight, loose, or uneven between the two). This makes installing scope and rings/bases a snap. I have yet to readjust a scope installed this way. 500 plus rounds in the Weatherby and 200 rounds in the 50 bmg. Take the time to do it right and it will pay big dividends. Especially if you are using the rifle for hunting.

  5. #5

    Default rings slipping?

    Any chance the rings are 26mm?

    Some guys will put blue painters tape on the inside surface of the ring for more holding power. You might also try stoning the ring mating surface so they don't mate firmly. Benchrest guys like space between upper and lower ring mating area.

    Badger Ordnance recomends 8-12 inch pounds on their ring screws, and 65 inch lbs on their 1/2 mounting nut. Seems that 20-30 lbs is about max for torquing the base to the receiver. Over-torquing can crimp some scope tubes. And boy is it fun to have to take a tiny tool and remove a broken scope base screw. Ask me how I know.

    If your rings have been lapped, they may not be in-spec any longer. Tape is likely the easiest fix.

  6. #6
    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Default rings...

    Lapping the rings is a tried and trued process. I have also heard of people lightly tapping the inside of the rings with a resin bag after lapping the rings just prior to installing scope. The kit is cheap and can be used for every scope you mount in the future. Kit is like $30 and comes with everthing you need. www.midwayusa.com or www.brownells.com

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