Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: Help with cold-start Ski-Doo?

  1. #1

    Default Help with cold-start Ski-Doo?

    So I used to really like my 2007 Summit 600 SDI!

    At the trailhead last weekend it was 20 below and it fouled plugs and took 30 minutes of screwing around to get it started. Ran fine once started. Today at home, 25 below, tried to start it, it barely starts to fire and dies. Repeat 20 times. Finally the rope won't retract - you know the routine! Probably pulled 50 times - sweating! This morning I "loosened it up" by pulling slowly on the rope numerous times with the tether unplugged to reduce loading the cylinders with fuel. I'm running semi-synthetic, at least that's what they said they put in my my jug from their bulk barrel.

    Anyway, any suggestions with cold starting this machine? Any others have this problem with their 600 SDI? I thought I might do some trapping, but this sled is no good to me as is.

  2. #2
    Member alaska4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Remote Skwentna
    Posts
    780

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jpost View Post
    So I used to really like my 2007 Summit 600 SDI!

    At the trailhead last weekend it was 20 below and it fouled plugs and took 30 minutes of screwing around to get it started. Ran fine once started. Today at home, 25 below, tried to start it, it barely starts to fire and dies. Repeat 20 times. Finally the rope won't retract - you know the routine! Probably pulled 50 times - sweating! This morning I "loosened it up" by pulling slowly on the rope numerous times with the tether unplugged to reduce loading the cylinders with fuel. I'm running semi-synthetic, at least that's what they said they put in my my jug from their bulk barrel.

    Anyway, any suggestions with cold starting this machine? Any others have this problem with their 600 SDI? I thought I might do some trapping, but this sled is no good to me as is.


    Check this thread out.......Hard starting cold Yamaha VK 540
    Last winter I posted a thread requesting suggestions on getting a VK 540 started at -35C and colder. I couldn't even pull the engine over at that...
    Started by Icefrog, 1 Day Ago 16:41
    JOHN

  3. #3
    Member letshunt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kodiak, now palmer alaska
    Posts
    188

    Default

    I had a problem kind of like that, and it was my reeds had gone bad. Since I replaced them it starts great. Not sure if that's your problem, but just a thought.

  4. #4
    Member Bsj425's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Pole, Alaska
    Posts
    1,060

    Default

    The first thing I did on my summit 800 was change the crappy brp choke with a primer it took about 15 mins to change and most of that was taking stuff off to get the choke to come out the dash. Ever since I have has no problems with cold starts to -40.

    I go with between. 0 and 30 above gets 2 pumps of the primer

    -15 to 0 gets 3 or 4 pumps

    and anything colder gets 5 or 6 the. Slowly work the primer until it can idle on it's own and I have had no problems

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks.

    The thing is, it pulls over so stiffly. Like trying to start a vehicle at 40 below w/o being plugged in, it's just stiff and when it starts to fire it just doesn't have the "umph" to keep running. I'm inclined to think the Ski-Doo semi-synthetic oil is just to thick at 20 below?

    BSJ425 - My machine has a semi-direct injection (SDI) system so I'm quite certain I can't add a primer.

    My spare machine, a 90s something Indy Lite 340 pulls over and starts very easily at these temps using the same oil!? So I just don't know. I'm thinking the old fan-cooled 340 pulls over much easier because it has less compression than the newer and bigger liquid cooled machine.

    Keep the suggestiosn coming - this is frustrating.

  6. #6
    New member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Yukon
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Might want to try some Amsoil Interceptor synthetic oil. Can't say for certain that that is your problem but it sure made my VK 540 turn over at -35C when the Shell Advance oil was keeping it from budging. I couldn't believe the differnce that made! And no, I don't sell Amsoil.

  7. #7

    Default

    The oil you are using is probably not the root of the problem. Although type and viscosity of oil plays a big part in cold starts for a 4 stroke engine, it is not so much a factor for a 2 stroke. I would start with checking for water or moisture in the fuel system or a blockage of some sort. Check the fuel filter. Add some heat and run it a bit (if you can get it started) and see if that clears up your issue. Stuck choke maybe. Oil injection system may be set too rich.

  8. #8
    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Delta Junction
    Posts
    4,078

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jpost View Post
    Thanks.

    The thing is, it pulls over so stiffly. Like trying to start a vehicle at 40 below w/o being plugged in, it's just stiff and when it starts to fire it just doesn't have the "umph" to keep running. I'm inclined to think the Ski-Doo semi-synthetic oil is just to thick at 20 below?

    BSJ425 - My machine has a semi-direct injection (SDI) system so I'm quite certain I can't add a primer.

    My spare machine, a 90s something Indy Lite 340 pulls over and starts very easily at these temps using the same oil!? So I just don't know. I'm thinking the old fan-cooled 340 pulls over much easier because it has less compression than the newer and bigger liquid cooled machine.

    Keep the suggestiosn coming - this is frustrating.
    It's amazing how well those polaris engines start in the cold. The Indy-lite with the 340 will always start no matter how cold it is. My uncle uses one for pulling his ice fishing gear all over the big lakes where it's often thutty below zero. He found an old 1.5" lugged 136" long track off of cragslist, geared the machine down, and lifted it a bit in the front-end and the track. The thing is a tank and is amazing on fuel. He somehow bolted strengtheners to the lower pieces of the suspension, after he had damaged it off trail.

  9. #9
    Member SusitnaAk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    ANCHORAGE
    Posts
    779

    Default

    It Could be first sign of diaphram in fuel pump going bad? 3 yr old machine what has changed? What oil has been in it?Or you just never ran it in -20 before?Did start run before in - temps?

  10. #10

    Default

    SusitnaAK: The machine has always had SKi-Doo semi-synthetic in it. When I bought it used (400 miles ago) it did have moisture in the fuel system, but I've run HEET (red bottle) through it every tank since owning it. I don't think it's a fuel related issue, it get's fuel, in fact it fouls the plugs at 20 below or so cause it pumps fuel but won't run. Pulls over stiff at those temps. Your right, I've just never tried to run it at these temps before so it may have alwasy acted this way.

    I'm just really curious what other SKi-Doo owners with the 600 SDI have experienced at 15 below or colder and what oil there using????

    Thanks

  11. #11
    Member byrd_hntr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Squarebanks
    Posts
    661

    Default

    Have you tried changing the plugs? Just Curious. Sometimes its the simplest things. I was trying to get a ATV started a few years ago at -20 to plow and I messed with it and messed with it. I never thought to change the plug. On a whim I changed it and it fire like it was brand new.

    Try looking around at dootalk.com, there a wealth of knowledge of there.
    Last edited by byrd_hntr; 12-24-2010 at 15:48. Reason: add some stuff.
    I'm going to ctrl-alt-delete you so hard your mama's computer is going to reboot.

  12. #12
    New member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Are you running BR 8's or 9's ? The nines are a bit hotter.... How much HEET you adding to your gas? Shouldn't be adding more than three or four ounces to a tank, get too much in their and it will cause issues similar to problems people in the states are experiencing with E10 in their sleds.... not unlike what you are experiencing. Are you pushing the start button to prime the injectors? I'd put it in a garage and thaw it out and see where that gets you.....

  13. #13
    Member SusitnaAk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    ANCHORAGE
    Posts
    779

    Default

    I see this all new to you. you didn,t buy it new. heres a link,they talk about, weak batt, fuse to batt, lotta good stuff over on that site lets know how turns out.
    http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index....&#entry3154371
    another,
    http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index....&#entry3158807

  14. #14
    New member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Yeah, SDI"s aren't capable of running without a battery, they also tend to eat relay's particullary the R 1 relay. If an SDI doesnt start on the second pull somethings wrong. Those batteries are 3.5 amp and cost under 50.00 at the Doo shop. I have a 1000 SDI and I put a new battery in it at the start of each season. Make sure to carry a spare relay (NAPA AR201) and try not to use to much of that HEET... good luck William Sr.

  15. #15

    Default

    I changed the fouled plugs last weekend - new plugs had same problem.
    Running the BR8 plugs.
    I just add a few splashes of HEET to a tank - not much.
    My battery was brand new last winter, so....

    Are your 600 SDIs firing on the 2nd pull at 20 below? Are they stiff to pull over at 20 below?

    Good info guys, I'll put the rewind back on tomorrow and see what she does. Not much fun turning wrenches outside in these temps!

  16. #16

    Default

    No, I haven't been pushing the Start/ER button to prime the injectors. The first pull on the rewind cord lights up the dash lights and there's a light humming noise for a few seconds which I assumed was the fuel system being primed. Then it starts on the 2nd pull - except when its' like 15 below or colder. Should I be pushing the Start/ER button first?

  17. #17
    Member Jktimm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Meadow Lakes, Wasilla
    Posts
    213

    Default

    I like wwracers idea. That SDI needs a good charge for fuel injectors. Another thing you might consider is taking your recoil off and putting one or two extra turns on your recoil spring. That should counter-act those real cold days when the rope wants to hang out.

  18. #18

    Default

    ngk.jpg
    Are you running BR 8's or 9's ? The nines are a bit hotter
    br 9 ARE NOT HOTTER than br8s
    the lower the number, the hotter the plug
    bad info can cause people to burn down there sled
    Last edited by yetnaman37; 12-25-2010 at 11:30. Reason: add picture

  19. #19
    Member mod elan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Glennallen
    Posts
    1,476

    Default

    Correct 8's are hotter and what are used in the 600 SDI. I switched to the iridium plugs because I have a fouling problem that I have not figured out in 5 years. Just glad it's my sled and not someone else's. The SDI will not fire the injectors when you hold the throttle wide open while cranking. This motor is unusually stiff in the cold and am glad I have electric start. 20 below and colder and I will hold the throttle open, crank the starter to loosen the motor, start it, and hold the rpm's around 2500-3000 for two minutes. Good to go after that. I have also found the SDI will eat the nikasil off the cylinder wall at top dead center if the motor is run near overheating for long periods such as the Rex trail on the winter hunts. Stumbled on this a few years ago and had to rebuild all of our machines. No problems using a lot of isoheet either. We don't have oxy-gas so use it as much as you want. Let me know if you have more questions.

    Also pull that recoil and clean all the grease out of it. Been running them dry forever. Careful winding the spring too tight. Too much and the spring will come to it's end before the rope does and break the spring.

  20. #20
    New member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Dittos keyed in the wrong number..no more wine during tech.advise...
    Quote Originally Posted by yetnaman37 View Post
    ngk.jpg

    br 9 ARE NOT HOTTER than br8s
    the lower the number, the hotter the plug
    bad info can cause people to burn down there sled

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •