383 ford stroker
I am researching the build of a 383 stroker using a 351W. I am running into a couple basic problems though. To the best I can find, to make a 393, you have to clearance the block. Would like to avoid this if possible. Can't find a clear answer on the 383 though. Anybody know?
Torque numbers, can't find a good estimate there either. Getting built for the boat, want a nice flat torque curve. Looking at lower compression (8.75:1 or so). Would like easy starting, runs on pump gas (NO DIESEL REPOWER FOR ME), just curios what kind of torque can be had with a 383.
Finally would a 383 make a decent mill for a 5,000lb boat with a 773? The 351 currently in it could use some extra oomph. Or should I ditch the ford and go bigger chevy? I am wanting to stick with the smallblock ford to reuse the manifolds/risers/bellhousing/starter/current heat exchanger setup.... Mileage is not so much a consideration, just a bonus if it does decent.
Just looking for some ideas! Thanks
Give Denny Aldridge in Portland OR a call we have used him for 3 engine builds great guy not cheap but well worth the $$$$$ we had him work over a standard Kodiak 460 to turn a 1031 Hamilton then we built 2, 429 SCJ bored out to 502 to turn a Hamilton 241, in a 24ft Wooldridge. He understands the loads the jets put on the engines so your torque is down low 2800-3400 in the big blocks we built that ran the big pumps. I'm sure he can get you started in the right direction or with good parts.
Check out Coast High Performance and Blueprint engines. They are both automotive engine builders with great reputations that build stroker Fords and Chevys.
A pair of these
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400004 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford
And then something like this
Eagle Specialty Products 435240006200 - Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshafts
Plus something like this, there are TONS of manifolds to choose from
Edelbrock 7581 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds
A phone call to Comp cams for a custom grind camshaft and you will see a huge gain. These suggestions are to get you started if you have'nt been looking at these yet. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7581/ this will take hours of your time.
I have a 351W in front of a 773 also but in a lighter boat. I am considering making these improvements ( or similar) to have more power in reserve when needed.
I have been researching a little, and the current 351 runs good so I have time to research. Thanks for the links. Summits page is one that I have not really figured out yet. I see links to stuff I KNOW they sell, but I can't seem to find them when I go to the website.
Are the stock heads really worth ditching? Aluminum high flow heads are cool (and believe me I would run them if they appeared under the tree!), but the for the price is it a noticeable gain?
The heads I listed there will still allow the engine to run 90 octane pump gas. They also will produce significant torque by virtue of being high flow and a very efficient burn, they move intake mixture and exhaust gases quickly. they are superior even to the GT40 heads, if that is what you have. The GT40 heads are on the 285hp H.O. version (which is what my boat has). Then there are a few with the GT40+ heads the produce a little more power but still do not perform as the aluminum heads do. With those examples 150hp gain is easy, I forget what how much torque gain there is, though 100ftlbs+ comes to mind. I put all this on the "back burner" the past month as I will not get it started until April anyhow. If I decide only to refit the top end it is only a 1 day project anyhow.
When navigating Summits site, look to the left hand column and choose criteria to aid in your search, such as, ford, 5.8L engine, etc. to narrow down components to wade through, then enter "cylinder head" or whatever to sort to items that apply directly to what your interest is.
Also Summit will help you match things, offer suggestions and answer questions, live while online.
In case you are unaware, the GT 40 heads have 3 raised vertical bars on the ends of the heads as part of the casting, the GT40+ has 4 bars. And there are 2 different blocks, 1 is roller cam compatible, it will have "F4TE" cast on the side of the block near the starter. If it does have that designation it is non-compatible with a roller camshaft.
If I remember correctly, the weight shaved by replacing the heads and intake with aluminum was around 80lbs, put on an aluminum housed water pump and lose a couple more lbs or so. What I would really like to find is some aluminum exhaust manifolds, so far no luck and stainless are $$$$$$... 3500-5k for a set, so not gonna happen in my lifetime.
In a short answer I would spend the funds twisting the SB up a few notches over repowering with a BB due to weight, fuel consumption and NOISE, those big blocks absolutely ROAR. I was going to purchase a 22' Wooldridge hardtop this past summer, the owner at the time let the wife and I take it for a long weekend. I really liked the boat, it was powered by a 454BB Chev 360hp in front of a Kodiak 3 stage, ran great, moved the 4000lb boat handily ,but man, it was SO LOUD inside as to be almost unbearable. It did sport mufflers.
Aftermarket aluminum heads are worth the money as cast iron heads are the biggest restrictor on small block Fords. They also allow you to run slightly higher compression without detonation due to the cooler combustion chamber.
Originally Posted by easthillsfbx
Good to know..... I don't think I have the GT 40 heads, mine is a 240 hp version (to the best of my knowledge) Time to go shovel the doghouse and pull some numbers. That is some wonderful insight though on the block and heads. I was leaning chevy to begin with just because it seemed there were more "options" but there is quite a following for the ford.
How much are you boring your 351? What were you planning on stroking yours too? 383/393/bigger??
I just noticed a typo on mny explaination of the "F4TE" block, I stated it both ways for the same designation. It should read if the block has the casting "F4TE" then it is roller cam compatible. If the block has any other castingit is not roller cam compatible. Sorry for that.
As to boring or altering the bottom end I am yet undecided. If I change the rotating assembly I do not think, at this time, that I will overbore unless it is needed, and I doubt that will be the case for the engine runs great (or did when I winterized it), I do nnot expect any scoring or ridges in the cylinders. If i stroke it, it will be with a 400 small block crank, so , the 3.5" stroke will become 4.00", that means no clearance issues to deal with.
I have been weighing these options for a couple years. Finally landed on stroking the 351 over the new Chevy. Problem is the 351 kept running so good I have hated to pull it. However I need a little more power to overcome all the weight I have added the last few years. Guess this serves as a reminder to finish pulling the motor soon.
Originally Posted by .338WM
Thanks again. I am going to go back to reading/looking/more reading....
I am sure I have some more questions later!