Glock G20 SF Upgrade Parts Questions
I have searched around, and have not been able to get clear answers to the following. Any help would be appreciated. I want to shoot regularly hotter 10mm loads out of my now-stock G20 SF. In particular, I want to be able to fire reliably the hard cast bullets (like available in Buffalo Bore and DoubleTap ammo). I assume It would not hurt to install a heavier guide rod, a stronger spring, and possibly a new barrel.
I have had my G20 SF for about 18-months, but shot a few hundred rounds through it or so. It has become one of my favorite handguns. I have shot all ammo through it without fail (except one particular FMC load), including the DT 200gr HC loads. But I have read that it is possible for the HC loads to leave enough lead behind in the stock barrel during a single sessions such that you can have increased pressure, and potentially catastrophic results. Ive not had that happen yet, but I am a better-safe-than-sorry guy.
(i) Are there any good barrels that handle HC bullets better than stock barrels, or is this really not a concern? Are there any other after-market barrels out there that have any other significant advantages over the stock barrels? Which ones are best and why?
Also, do I need to send in my slide to get a custom-fit barrel (e.g., http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/2_Barrels/7918_KKM+Precision+Barrels/?return=%3ftpl%3Dindex%26category_id%3D2%26_Barrel s%2F), or should I just ordefr a standard one?
(ii) I am leaning to putting in a tungsten guide rod, rather than a steel one. Any problem with that? Is this a good choice?:
(iii) Are there any advantages between tungsten or stainless steel springs? Which strength do I want: 20lb or 22lb? Are these good options?:
(iv) Id probably prefer to just keep the barrel 4.6 long. Is there any reason to go with a 6 barrel? It looks like it probably would add only about 50-75 fps over the 4.6 barrel:
(v) For those of you with 6 barrels, what kind of holster do you use?
(vi) What should I be careful about doing/not doing to make sure the pistol remains reliable? (I added tungsten rod and steel spring to a Springfield XD40 Tactical and had no problems with it, but is there anything that can lead to problems in switching out the parts above on the Glock?)
Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.
I know Murphy has done some pretty extensive testing with factory Glock barrels and soft/hardcast lead and he said it wasn't really an issue with the hardcast and with minimal maintenance, it shouldn't be a problem.
That said, I've got an aftermarket barrel as well.
I'll take a shot at your questions:
(i)-Likely not. I don't know the advantages of a custom fit barrel when so many drop-ins work just fine. I have two LWD barrels for my G20SF and a Storm Lake conversion barrel for my wifes G27. All seem to function fine. LWD claims their chamberings are tighter, which looks to be true from the side by side comparisons with the stocker, but maybe thats just me. They do offer more of a fully supported chamer, which also is a good thing.
(ii)-I dont know if there is an advantage. I think of it this way...a stock Glock comes with a PLASTIC guide rod and they work everyday. Why not save a buck and get a cheaper guide rod to fit your spring weight of choice?
(iii)-Again, I dont know. I'm not even sure what the claim is to go with tungsten over steel, but I'm not buying it. I shoot a 22#er on a SS guide rod in my G20SF and it works fine. My buddies stock spring on he plastic guide rod works fine too...just sayin....
(iv)-You're right. I have the 6" barrel but also the 6" slide. Other than the slightly faster speeds and longer sight radius, the 6" slide/bbl setup is pretty much just high coefficient of cool
(v)-I've been using a serpa for a G20, it just sticks out the bottom. I'm sure any decent leather shop could hook ya up. Also, you could buy kydex for cheap on eBay and experiment with making a rig yourself.
(vi)-I've learned through my project that once you start messing with stuff, the more you will have the opportunity for problems. I had a HECK OF A TIME getting my longslide to function reliably. It turned out to be a machining issue from LWD that they fixed, but what a headache!
I'm slowly turning into a stock Glock guy (I think). Theres plenty of playing you can do with sights/holsters/lights without having the possibility of sacrificing reliability (and money). Then again, tinkering is FUN!
Mine is completely stock inside except the SS rod and the spring. Other than that its just like I got it when it was new....well kinda....
With the 6" 10/40 bbl
How about an all black stealth model?
Forgot to say that the only upgrade that I've seen so far that solves a legitimate problem is the extended slide stop!! Wow what a difference when field stripping....
1. I tell my customers they can shoot HC bullets in the stock barrels. Most do, some won't. I don't force them too. Barrel choice depends on how much you want to spend! Get stainless. I bought a 6" KKM a year and half before I was a dealer.
2. Tungsten is just a bit heavier is all. So if you want more weight forward, go for it. Otherwise I don't see the extra cost benifit, stainless captured will be fine. I use a LWD stainless captured rod with a 24# round wound, also have another set up with a 22# flat wound, both run awesome.
3. Never seen a stungsten spring, again just stick with the black flat wound or round wound.
4. Not sure how much fps gain there is with the 6". I went 6" for accuracy and use it for hunting. 6'10" black bear with DT 230gr HC this past spring.
5. Nothing to worrry about. I was confident in my purchases I sold all the factory stuff and upgraded for very little cost! Have the long slide kit from LWD also, like Hunt_AK, but different night sights-Tru Glo TFO-that is where it is at! I messed around with the trigger too, heavier spring and 3.5# connector rod, and heavier firing pin spring. Firing pin spring I like. Will play around with the trigger some more this winter shooting .22lr, if you can find one, get the .22lr advantage arms kit!!!!!!!!!! Very nice.
I use the Alaska Sportsman Holster, made by a guy in the Valley. You can buy online from him. I use it all the time even with Barney's pack frame with a heavy load. Only time I didn't wear it was on the sheep hunt, bow only and never felt threatened with the Z7 in hand!
Very nice pics, I like the black one. Is the barrel also ported under that cut away slide window?
No not on my setups....
Originally Posted by marshall
I am not a Glock owner yet. However, do you handload? If yes and you are worried about lead fouling, there are some companies that do 'Hardcast' alloy bullets, Lasercast being one, but there are others.
Also instead of going the long slide route (better experts than me seem to advise aginst in posts below), why not just get your slide/bbl ported by magna-port. Everybody I know rates their work and from personal experience (fired a buddys) a magna-ported G20 is a loud but MUCH tamer to shoot beast. Follow up shots much easier.
In that case does the cut out portion on the slide assist in faster cycling because of it's reduced weight or is this a non-issue?
Originally Posted by hunt_ak
I guess that's the idea. They offered the solid topped slide after I purchase mine. Glock offers their G35 with the cutout and maybe the G24 as well...
Originally Posted by marshall
hunt explain to me the machining issues that Lone Wolf noted and what steps they took to resolve your feeding issue.
It was an incorrect angle on how the extractor set in the slide. It took two trips back down south, but after the first trip, they realized it was something they couldn't see right away, so they got back with their machinist who remedied the problem. We got 4 of these slides and all were exhibiting the same issues...
Originally Posted by grizz106
the extractor plunger probably did not go in enough to have ur extractor positioned properly to hold the round going into the chamber, kind of like pinching the round offset when entering the feed ramp. they must have deepened it huh?
As that black Stealth model sits how much might a guy expect to pay OTD?
Originally Posted by nbh40
Mine with the long slide, 230gr hardcast @ 1160fps, and a 24# recoil spring runs very nice, fast and follow shots are quick. Recoil is more straight back with set up and the extra weight out front prevents the muzzle from raising much at all. My wrist still gets sore after 60 rounds, feel it the next day for sure. No extra noise and no loss in FPS, plus no gasses fouling up the sights.
If you hit it right, you can sell the factory goods for more. Mine had factory night sights and glock internals for I believe over $300, and the stock bbl with 30 rounds fired plus the guide rod for $75.
I can get anything anybody needs from LWD for their cost, and I cover shipping.